Question about Craftsman Garden
I had the same problem with my Craftsman Lawn Tractor. The Drive Belt (which is not adjustable) is only engaged when the Brake Pedal is released (the Brake Pedal is located on the left side of the tractor, near the foot rest on my Tractor).
The Symptoms: My Tractor lacked driving power, and would not go up an incline, but the mower deck was powerful and working fine, even though the Tractor seemed to lack power and moved slower than usual, and would not travel up an incline.
I too, changed the Drive Belt, which initially seemed to help somewhat for a very short period of time, and then the same, lack of power problem, re-appeared again. The belt was not the problem, but only seemed to work somewhat due to the rougher texture of the belt's surface against the pulleys.
I also changed the Plastic Clutch Pulleys that engage the Drive Belt, thinking that they may have been worn down to a point that the Drive Belt could not fully engage with these Pulleys. No Luck.
NO ONE, NOT EVEN SEARS ON-LINE REPAIR ADVICE CENTER HAD A SOLUTION. THIS WAS VERY FRUSTRATING INDEED.
There had to be a solution: After much investigation, I eventually discovered the problem, which actually was easy to solve, and I would like to share this simple solution with others facing this same Frustrating Problem.
The Brake Pedal, when released, causes the Drive Belt Clutch Pulleys to move, and thus Tighten the Drive Belt. When you look under the Tractor, there is a Protective Metal Plate mounted to the Bottom of the Main Tractor Frame which covers the Brake Pedal Shaft and attached Mechanisms. Over time, Grass Builds up in between the Protective Metal Plate and the Tractor's Main Frame Deck, creating a very narrow space between these two pieces of metal.
This area is very difficult to get at, and almost impossible to clean out. Over time, Grass Clippings accumulate in this hidden area, and harden to an almost rock hard clump.
These Hardened Clippings accumulated between the Brake Pedal Mechanism and its fully released metal stop position. Thus, preventing the Brake Pedal Mechanism from moving to its fully engaged position.
I used a long screw driver to break up the compacted grass clippings, and an Air Compressor Blow Gun to break up the packed grass and blow the area clear. It takes awhile to do this cleanup, and is a bit messy, so do it outside, but be patient, and be sure to clean out all the grass that is lodged in this hidden area.
What was happening was that the Packed Grass was so dense that the Brake Pedal could not Fully Release, thus only Partially Engaging the Clutch Pulleys and the Drive Belt, hence the appearance of a loose Drive Belt even when the Brake Pedal was released.
Once the Packed Grass Debris was cleaned out, you will immediately notice the Drive Belt being tighter than it was previously when the Brake Pedal is released, and when you test drive the Tractor you'll find that everything works perfectly, like it was brand new.
Posted on Nov 15, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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How to replace the drive belt on a Toro LX466 Lawn Tractor
1. Jack up the front of the mower-place a couple of blocks under the front wheels (retaining wall blocks from your flower bed work great). Block the back wheels so the mower won't roll off the front blocks.
Remove the battery and battery compartment from under the seat. You can now see the cooling fan blade under the seat. The belt runs from the pulley directly under the fan to the front of the tractor.
Lower the mower deck to its lowest position. Remove the deck hanger rod from the slots in the front of the mower deck.
Remove the metal rod guard below the engine pulley. It's held in place on one side with a bolt, and the other side with a cotter pin.
Take a large pair of channel lock pliers (about 18 in long work great) and clamp them down directly on the engine pulley, but not so tightly you distort the pulley.
Remove the bolt from the pulley. It's a right-handed bolt, so turn it counter-clockwise to remove.
Slide the pulley down the shaft until you can work the belt off. If the belt is too tight, then remove the spring from the idler pulley under the tractor. It's hooked on a bolt near the side of the tractor. You can remove it by grabbing the end of the spring with a pair of needle-nose vise-grips and slipping the end off the bolt. Then remove the old belt from the tractor.
Take a new belt (preferably Kevlar) and start at the back of the tractor (with the pulley under the cooling fan) and thread it through to the front of the tractor. The flat side of the belt rests against the idler pulley with the flat sides.
Work the belt over the engine pulley and slide it back on the shaft. Tighten the bolt on the engine pulley hand tight. Then check the belt to make sure it hasn't slipped out of the groove on the cooling fan pulley.
Clamp the engine pulley with the channel lock pliers and tighten the bolt.
Make sure the belt is routed correctly on the idler pulleys. If you had to remove the spring on the idler pulley, replace it. You can do this by grabbing it with the needle-nose vise-grips and placing it on the bolt-make sure it's above the washer. Then remove the vise-grips and gently pry it over with a small screwdriver until it slips into place.
Replace the metal guard below the engine pulley. Hook the mower deck back onto the deck hanger. Replace the battery compartment and battery. Unblock the mower.
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