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Did you properly adjust the clutch AND the clutch cable after you put in the new cable??? Is the whine only when you pull in the clutch lever and if so when does it start, first portion of lever movement or middle or when the lever is all the way to the handlebar grip??? NO noise when clutch is fully released????
Did you get the balls back into the ramp assembly correctly and install them with multi purpose grease to hold them in position while assembling. Also check that the rest of the parts were assembled correctly.
As a last point confirm that the new caqble assembly is the correct part.
The spring probably just popped off. It just sticks on to the adjustment lock. You may need to tighten the adjustment screw on the clutch. This is done by removing the lock which is behind the spring and turning the screw counter clockwise until resistance is felt, then put the lock back on. Do not tighten it past this point or the clutch may slip. You should have a small amount of play in the cable. Adjust this with the cable adjuster.
my auger cable is not working the auger so i adjusted it and it was to tight and the plastic holder that holds the cables poped off and broke,now the cable i adjust it and nothing happens,cable is all hooked up and seems ok but it will not work right,but the auger spins with out the cable,wondering if it needs a new auger cable
Well, you only need the clutch to release, and that cannot be major. Inspect the cable completely, does it move at the trans end when you pulll it. What is inside is essentially a fork on a release bearing, a rod, and the clutch spring plate.
The spring will be attached to the tensioner pully right on top, there is a threaded bolt with nut holding the spring on, I just had to order the clutch cable because the spring broke, from rubbing on metal when engaging and disengaging the clutch lever.
I just got the kit 175067. Have the old one off except for where it's attached to the lever, schedule and weather has kept me from going further. Very simple to reconnect things at the pulley and above but not too sure how to connect the rest onto the lever and haven't had a chance to get a good look at how the old one might be connected yet. Should be a simple fix.
The spring broke on my S40 clutch pedal too.
The old spring looks like a modified volvo part since none of the S40 clutch pedal springs at Volvo spares looks exactly the same as the one that broke. The one that broke looks similar to the replacement part that I bought, but one can clearly see that the old one was cut shorter at the other end and bent over to make it fit onto the clutch pedal mechanism. This is absolutely pathetic. I am taking it to Volvo to fix their rubbish themselves - and then they are still going to charge me R750 ($100) to replace a stupid spring! By the way, Volvo always wants the vehicle VIN number when buying spares because some of their cars (of the same year and model) use different parts - CAN YOU BELIEVE THIS! By the way, I am replacing the spring to pull the pedal all the way back - otherwise if I start the car in the mornings then the pedal is nearly on the floor when the car starts moving. If I pull the pedal back with my foot , then all is back to normal. I am scared that I may have no clutch after some time - so I will rather replace it.
I only had my mower 3 months and that problem started. I was told to change the drive belt, It got worse. Now the transmission will only drive the mower for about 15 min and will come to a complete stop. I have to let it sit about 30 min before the drive will work again. No solution yet but I'm looking at replacing the "sealed" drive assy. I do have a very healthy yard of St Augustine which is tough. I can mow a thinner yard a little longer.n