Installed LG split system. The unit does not work. Tested voltage good on both L1 and L2 - 120 volts - #3 is the low voltage com line - reads 0 volts, should be 20-70 volts +/-. Replaced PCB, still nothing - Distributor sent new indoor unit, and still nothing - the outdoor unit fan will not start when I start the indoor unit - still get 0 volts on line #3. Any suggestions?
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Re: Installed LG split system. The unit does not
Any chance that you've got L1 and L2 hooked up to the same leg of the main? That would still give you 120 on each but not 240 from L1 to L2 like it should be. I'm not familiar with the LG system, but I would think that a comm line would have two wires.
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Based on the specs that I could find, that unit requires 208/230 volts. Are you sure you are looking at the correct terminal block. It should be more like L1/L2. Do you have the install manual and does it tell where to hook up the supply voltage?
This video demonstrates how to check a battery for proper voltage before replacing it. In the video examples the battery has been removed from the unit, although a battery can be tested while on or off the unit.
Tools Needed: Volt Meter
Testing a Battery
You will need a meter that can test DC voltage. There are many possible battery ratings such as 6 VDC, 8 VDC, and 12 VDC. Ensure that your meter is equipped with a compatible DC volt range for the battery being tested.
(It is important to note that for the video we used several batteries with different ratings, but all batteries were rated less than 20 volts, so the meter setting of 20 VDC used worked for all our examples.)
To begin set your meter to volts DC and auto range or manually set it to a DC volt range proper for the battery being tested, depending on your meters options.
Place the red lead of the meter on the positive terminal of the battery and the black lead of the meter on the negative terminal of the battery.
You should get a reading very close to the rating of the battery being tested. If you get a reading significantly below the rating of the battery, the battery should be charged and re-tested.
If after re-charging, the battery still shows a reading well below the rating, the battery should be replaced.
Once you verify you have a good battery installed it is highly recommended that the charging system of the unit be tested to prevent future battery problems. In most cases taking a reading with the battery installed, while the unit is in operation will prove the functionality of the charging system. This is not possible on all units for safety reasons.
Caution: Make sure that all parts of the machine are clear of obstruction and that you and your meter are clear of all moving parts while performing the voltage test to confirm functionality of the charging system. It may be necessary to remove some shrouds completely to ensure safety of the unit and persons involved.
Refer to the manufacturer and or service manual for more information. Video about How to Test BatteryReplacement Parts for Fitness Exercise Equipment at SPORTSMITH
Here's what I think but you will have to check it out...
The fan motor in the 39 heater is a 120V fan there fore it cannot be hooked to the 240 which potentially could have the high (wild) leg as one of the fan legs...
The 240V 36 unit probably has a 240v fan motor....
Now if you were to make sure that the leg that fed the motor was a 120V to ground leg then you will be okay...
Hope you understand where I was going with this...
Hi, this is a 1-ton cooling unit per your numbers. If they just installed it and the line side (120 volts) is good but nothing on the secondary low voltage side, they should have replaced the transformer themselves? If it is a split system, it is normally on all splits to be located in the indoor unit control section. I can't tell you exactly, but look where the 120 volts come into the indoor unit and the high voltage wiring should be connected to it then stepped down to lower voltage. It may have a fuse on the circuit board that they blew when installing it. If you are not familar with electrical, I wouldn't attempt to make these repairs. You can look for a small plug in type fuse to see if it blew, it looks like one on your automobile. I would call this installer out and its there job to do this!! These transformers look different, there not all the same, but will have a black and white wire coming in, and several colored wires coming out for low voltage. It will be in the indoor unit. Keep me posted on what you find or if you need more help. How long ago was the unit installed? Shastalaker7
First the foam insulation is not just for looks,you will have some loss of cooling on the unit,the larger cooper line needs to be insulated,the small one does not.The large line is the suction line,the small one the liquid line.
Voltage,168 is low,sounds like a 208 volt unit or 220 volt.running at 168 or 198 ac volts is going to raise the amperage causing the compressor to run hot and work harder and soon burn up,And cause it to trip the breaker or shut itsself down on high heat.Your going to need to get that voltage fixed.I dont know why it needs a stabilizer if the unit was sized correctly it shouldnt need one.
Hope this helps.
Is there a disconnect next to the outside unit (required by code here in the lower 48). If so check to see if you have voltage to it, check the breaker going to the outside unit. Check on the inside unit circuit board for a blown fuse.
check the contactor that powers the compressor for 240 volts a.c. and make sure you have 24 volts a.c. to energize the contactor from the thermostat inside the building,you can check both these voltages from the contactor
This is the main PCB diagram of the indoor unit of LG LS-K1830 model.
Check the shown capacitor. Lift one leg then connect the test leads of the ohmmeter to the capacitor terminals. Do the same with the test leads in reverse. The pointer should deflect quickly to the right then slowly deflect back to the left on both instances. Otherwise the capacitor is bad and must be replaced with the same specifications.
If the capacitor is good or the problem still exist after the capacitor is replaced, check the voltage between the 2 inner terminals of the motor harness 4-pin connector as shown above. Voltage should read about 5 volts. If voltage is below 5V or not present, replace the indoor unit main board assembly.
Check the voltage between the labeled terminals of the 5-pin connector shown above. The voltage should be about 17 volts. If voltages is below 17 volts or not present, check the connection between the indoor and outdoor unit main boards. If connection is good, replace the outdoor unit main board.