Question about Hotpoint HSS25GFT 25.0 Cu. Ft. Side-by-Side Refrigerator with GE SmartWater Filtration, LightTouch

2 Answers

I have a Hotpoint hss25gfphww that all of a sudden stopped cooling. the lights turn on, buit the rest doesnt. (ear to fridge I hear motors or fans). I unpluged for a while, and when I plugged back in, the fride slowly started cooling...but SLOWLY (ear to fridge, I can hear it humming). Left running overnight, in the AM the fride stopped working (no humming). I unplugged for 15 min, and now is slowly cooling again (humming again).

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  • jlopezrico Jul 14, 2010

    It was thundering and the power went out. When the power came back I felt the refrigerator food kind of warm. I thought it will be back to normal the next day but it didnt. The bottom freezer is freezing the food down there. But the refrigerator is not cooling. I also noted a fan at the middle of freezer not running. I tried to turn it with a knife and it turns manually but not by itself. The ice maker stopped making ice as well. Lights work, compressor is working and evaporator fan under the refrigerator. Please help me out. Just bought 200.00 worth of food a couple of days ago..


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The freezer is where the cooling coils are located. Then air is moved over the coils and circulated through the fridge side by a small blower or fan. The problem arises when the air is not circulated for some reason.The reasons the air is not moving is usually two reasons..either the fan or blower has failed or the coil is covered over with ice and blocks the air flow.

The first reason is pretty simple to fix, you simply replace the air circulator and things are good again.
The second reason can be more difficult.
1. The timing device that runs the defrost cycle of the refrigerator is defective.
2. The heater coil that melts the water is shorted or not working.

Usually the first thing to check is the heater coil. If there is resistance through the coil then most likely it is still good.
The timing device can be an advanced defrost control board or a mechanical timing device.
If the heater coil checks out to be good then the problem should be the timer.For most situations, unplugging the refrigerator and allowing it to defrost on its own will get you going temporarily, till parts can be shipped to you. That will melt the ice and give you a few days or a couple of weeks till it ices up to the point where it will not work again.

So you can see here, the problem can usually be traced to one of three things. The fan or blower,the timer device,the electric heater coil.

Let us know if you have something more to know else accept the suggestion.
Thank You for contacting

Posted on Jul 15, 2010

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Things You'll Need:

  • Scrub Brush
  • Soap
  • Soap
  • Dollar Bill
  • Cord Caulk
  • Replacement Gasket
  • Screwdriver, or nut driver and socket

    Inspecting and cleaning a door gasket
  1. Step 1 Inspect the gasket for dirt or debris that could prevent it from sealing. If you find any, remove the large debris, then wash the gasket, using a scrub brush and warm, soapy water.
  2. Step 2 Check the gasket for cracks or tears that can let cold air escape. If you find any, replace the gasket. If the gasket appears to be solid, go on to step 3.
  3. Step 3 Check the seal: Open the door, insert a dollar bill partway and shut the door on the bill. Try to pull out the bill. You should feel some resistance. Repeat the test at several points around each door. If the bill slips out easily, replace the gasket.
  4. Replacing a door gasket
  5. Step 1 Remove the old gasket. It is held to the refrigerator by screws and a retainer strip that runs around all four sides of the door. Lift the lip of the gasket so you can see the screws. Loosen but do not remove the screws, using a screwdriver or a nut driver and socket. Pull the gasket from the retainer strip.
  6. Step 2 Buy a replacement gasket--and a package of cord caulk--at an appliance store.
  7. Step 3 Prepare the new gasket for installation: Soak it in warm water to soften it. Then place a 2-inch (5-cm) strip of cord caulk at each corner of the door where the gasket will sit. This will keep the gasket from curling at the corners when it's installed.
  8. Step 4 Install the new gasket: Slip the bead on the back of the gasket under the retainer strip. Tighten the retainer screws. Do the top and the bottom, then the sides. Make sure the gasket is straight and flat when you're done.
  9. Step 5 Close the door and check that the new gasket is touching on all four sides. If it isn't, the door has twisted while the gasket screws were loose, and you'll need to adjust it.
  10. Step 6 To adjust the door, loosen the retainer screws slightly, then grab the door at opposite corners and push or pull to remove the twist. Tighten the screws, then shut the door and recheck alignment. If the door still appears warped, repeat the process.
jQuery('.article ol .image').each(function(i,e){ var $this = jQuery(this); $this.find('img').error(function(){ jQuery(this).remove(); $this.remove(); }); }); Tips & Warnings
  • Before removing a gasket, empty the shelves on the door. This will reduce the likelihood that the door will warp when you loosen the retainer screws.
  • Dirt and debris can quickly collect in the grooves in your door gaskets. To keep them sealing properly, check them every few months.

Posted on Jul 14, 2010

  • 1 more comment 
  • ikechukwu joshua
    ikechukwu joshua Jul 14, 2010


    My hot point freezer fan was making a variable hollowing sound as well.
    I talked to a repair guy and he mentioned that the bushings seem to
    wear out on the fan motor located under the ice maker. I ordered a new
    motor $82.70 and replaced it myself. Took about an hour to replace and
    it fixed the problem.

    We just had a similar problem with our brand new GE counter depth french
    door refrigerator. When the evaporator fan would spin it would buzz
    like a jet engine. They came to replace it after five service visits
    and only then, when they tipped the refrigerator to move it, did water
    come gushing out of the refrigerator. So there was a leak. The leak
    led to ice around the fan, and the ice caused the buzzing.

    some reason, they never looked for a leak when the service guy was
    there, which was really frustrating. But just keep in mind these new
    refrigerators are pretty loud to begin with.

  • ikechukwu joshua
    ikechukwu joshua Jul 14, 2010

    Fix #1

    First of all, the most simplest thing to do is to check the temperature.
    It might very well have happened that the temperature control may have
    been turned off unknowingly, which is the reason for the problem. So if
    that's the issue, just set the refrigerator at 37 degrees and you are
    all set. Simple, isn't it? Read more on refrigerator
    temperature range

    Fix #2

    Poor coiling leads to a heavy frost build up on the evaporator coils. A
    frost build up, specially on the ceiling of the freezer, is a sign of
    problem in the self defrosting system or damaged gaskets of the doors.
    Therefore, check if the refrigerator is facing such a problem and
    defrost the refrigerator. It would not cool well if the defrosting is
    not happening properly.

    Fix #3

    A dirty condenser may be the culprit for your refrigerator not cooling
    well. What will happen in case if the condenser is dirty is that it will
    cut off the extra load. That work is done by the thermostat on the side
    of the compressor in case the refrigerator heats more than usual. To
    rectify this problem clean the condenser coils using the vacuum cleaner.
    These are either behind or beneath the refrigerator. Read more on how
    does a refrigerator work

    Fix #4

    In case the refrigerator is not leveled, that too can lead to the
    refrigerator not cooling properly, because if the level is not right,
    the door of the refrigerator may not close correctly, causing cooling
    problems. If this is the case, it might be necessary to ensure that
    refrigerator is at level and is slightly tilted back. Do some adjustment
    to get that correct level using a wooden block or see if the screws on
    the leveling legs need some looking into.

    Fix #5

    Check out the door seal. If the door seal is worn out, it will
    definitely result in frost build up and that won't allow the door to
    close properly, thus the problem of refrigerator not cooling. In
    addition to that there can be a problem in the door even if the level
    and other things are fine. You would need something to do about the door
    then. May be loosen the hinges and fix them in order to get the correct
    position of the door. Eventually tighten the hinges. Read more on refrigerator
    repair tips

    Fix #6

    The food and freezer sections will go dysfunctional if the evaporator
    fan is not working properly. This is because then there will be no
    airflow to the freezer or the other sections of the refrigerator.
    Confirm if both the fans are working well by listening to the sound
    emitted by them. There is a possibility that one may work and the other
    wont. For that, may be you would have to look for a blockage or
    something in the one which is not working. Even after doing this you do
    not find any problem in the fan, you may need to replace it. Read more

    If all these don't work as a solution to refrigerator not cooling,
    then perhaps you need to take it to the mechanic. As, if none of these
    problems are identified, it might be a serious issue, something like a
    sealed system problem.

    That's it, this is where I sign off! Chill out!

  • ikechukwu joshua
    ikechukwu joshua Jul 14, 2010

    Defrost can be the cause for your refrigerator not cooling problem. To
    check to see if you have a defrost problem, look in the freezer to see
    if there is ice build up on the evaporator cover. (The evaporator
    covers are either in the back of the freezer or on the bottom of the

    Below is a picture of what the coils will look like if
    there is a defrost problem. Notice how the entire coil is wrapped up
    with frost.

    If there is ice build up click here.
    refrigerator not cooling

    If not, keep reading on.


    Fans not running will cause the fresh food and the freezer
    sections not to work. If the condenser fan (the one under refrigerator)
    is not working, the compressor will cut off on the overload. If the
    evaporator fan is not running, there will be no airflow to the freezer
    or the refrigerator. First walk up to the refrigerator and listen to see
    if the fans (one in the freezer on one under the bottom) are running.
    If one is running and the other is not then get to the one that is not
    running and see if something is blocking it. If there is nothing
    blocking it then replace it. (Note that some refrigerators cut off the
    fan inside the freezer when you open the door so be sure that the door
    switch is depressed when performing this test). Refrigerator fan motors
    can be purchased at or simply search your part above.

    Top-freezer Leaking/Refrigerator Not

    On a top-freezer when the drain stops up water will back up
    turning to ice and eventually filling the air ducks with ice blocking
    airflow to the fresh food section causing it not to cool. You will also
    see a water leak inside the fresh food section. To fix this, remove the
    evaporator cover, (back or bottom of freezer) and then remove all the
    ice. Once all the ice is removed, you need to unclog the drain. I do
    this by forcing hot water down the drain with a turkey baser but you can
    use any squirt bottle, I have even used the water hose. Once the drain
    is clear, mix water and baking soda and pour it down the drain to
    prevent this from happening again anytime soon.


    Dirty condenser can be the cause for your refrigerator not
    cooling problem.. If the condenser is dirty, the compressor will cut off
    on the overload. (A thermostat that is on the side of the compressor
    that cuts it off if it overheats). Often when this happens you’ll hear a
    clicking noise about 2 to 3 minutes apart. This is your compressor
    cutting in and out as it overheats and cools off. Now you need to find
    out why the compressor is overheating. First you’re going to need to
    remove the cover from the back of the refrigerator. Once you remove the
    cover you should see the compressor. Now look at the condensing coils
    (condensing coils are going to be either behind the compressor, beside
    the compressor or on the back of the refrigerator) to see if they are
    dirty if so clean them. To clean the condenser I normally use a brush
    made for this. You can buy them at Wal-Mart. Once clean your problem may
    be fixed. Leave refrigerator unplugged for a while (20 min. or so).
    Then plug it back in and if the compressor doesn’t overheat problem is
    fixed. If it still overheats read on.

    START RELAY (Compressor clicking won’t

    The start relay can also cause the fresh food and the freezer
    sections not to work. If the start relay is bad, the compressor will not
    start and you will hear a clicking noise in 2-5 minute intervals. The
    clicking noise is the overload cutting the compressor off when it
    overheats from trying to start with a bad start relay. To find out if
    this is bad first unplug the refrigerator. Then take the cover off that
    is on the side of the compressor. Now you should be able to see the
    start relay plugged on to the side of the compressor and unplug it. Now
    the best way to tell if it’s bad is to shake it. If it rattles, it’s bad
    and needs to be replaced. If not, most of the time it’s ok. But rather
    than saying the compressors bad, you might want to replace it anyways
    because it don’t cost much in most cases (less than $25). If you replace
    it and it doesn’t work then the compressor is bad and you’ll need you
    call a repairman. (Note that compressors are very costly and are
    normally not worth fixing). Refrigerator start relays can be purchased
    at or simply search your part above.


    If your refrigerator is stuck in defrost, this can be the cause
    for your refrigerator not cooling problem. Just simply turn the defrost
    timer a ¼ turn. Defrost timers are normally located in the fresh food
    section near the controls or at bottom behind kick plate. If the
    refrigerator comes on replace timer. If your refrigerator is newer, the
    timer may be electronic; therefore, you can’t do this. But it can still
    be your problem, although I haven’t seen this often. Refrigerator
    defrost controls can be purchased at or simply search your part above.


    The cold control can be the cause for your refrigerator not
    cooling problem. This is the least likely of all the problems but
    happens sometimes. Turn the control up all the way and tap on it. If the
    refrigerator comes on then replace cold control. If it still doesn’t
    come on, it may still be bad. You can check it by first unplugging the
    refrigerator and taking the control out and test it with an.

    Unplug the wires and see if you have continuity between the terminals,
    if not replace control. Refrigerator cold controls can be purchased at or simply search your part above.


    Some newer refrigerators have a main control board and this can
    be the cause for your refrigerator not cooling problem. This can be hard
    to diagnose if you don’t have a wiring diagram or don’t know how read
    one. I can’t help you because I would need a wiring diagram of your
    refrigerator to diagnose a main board. Refrigerator main boards can be
    purchased at or simply search your part above.

    If you have a 2002 or newer GE-electronic-refrigerator click on one of
    the two links below.
    Eletronic Refrigerator Not Cooling

    Eletronic Refrigerator Not Running


    If you still haven’t found the cause for your refrigerator not
    cooling then it could be a few other problems. One is that it’s a
    possibility you may have left the door open. If you know you didn’t do
    that then the door gasket may be bad but this is a stretch because it
    would have to be pretty bad to cause the fresh foods and freezer
    sections not to cool. It may be a sealed system problem in which case
    you’ll need to call a repairman.
    Appliance Repairs in Baltimore, Howard, Anne Arundel,
    Counties in Maryland.


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