We have a 55 year old home and the foundation is solid concrete - not cinder block. The window size we wish to install is 48x48 inches slider type. We are struggling with the way to cut the foundation and what the size dimensions should be including the frame for the window.
Measure the window from side to side and from top to bottom on the very outside of it. Those are your rough-in measurements. You can either cut that size and add one inch to the side length and 1/2" (inch) to the vertical measurement. That will leave you enough room to slide it in and put it where you want it and then use shims on three sides to hold it in place. shim it on three sides inside and outside of the window, cut the shims off even where they stick out past the window and then you can glue some trim on it. You should also put liquid nails down on the bottom shelf where the window will set, don't need a lot of it, just enough to hold it in place. I should have mentioned this before i started the answer, but you usually put in a header above the window to protect the window from being crushed if the weight above it starts to fall for some reason. If the concrete above the window is in good shape and no big cracks in it then you should be able to sneak by without the header since it is all solid. to cut the hole correctly, first drill four holes all the way through the concrete right where each corner is going to be, & then just cut from one hole to the other hole at the outside line. You will have to make the lines on both sides of the wall from hole to hole to hole to hole on all four sides and cut from both sides. If you run into any problems get a hold of me here and I will do everything I can to help you out. Good luck.
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If you are trying to sell a house with a basement and want to include rooms in the basement in the advertising their must be a way to exit the house from the basement. for a few thousand dollars now you can add the rooms and raise the value significantly. Egressed windows are windows in a basement large enough to qualify as an exit. You will have to call a concrete cutting contractor and have him cut out the window size. then install the window. now instead of your add saying a 2 bedroom, 2 bathroom house with a basement. You can say a 2 leve, 4 bedroom, 2 bathroom house!
I'm a retired Building Inspector and was a contractor for a LOT of years.
If the window is a required egress as in a bedroom, you'll need to do your revisions to make sure you comply with local Building Code.
If you're dealing with water management as in Surface drainage, groundwater, or rain, make sure that your revisions include guaranteeing that water will not collect in your window well.
If the existing window well is concrete or masonry, you could add on to it, or breaking it all out and starting over is possible, costs more, and looks nicer.
Some places with low rainfall have PWF (preserved wood foundations), not common, but fairly easy for an experienced carpenter to attend to.
Hope this helps.
If you poured these dimensions as a solid concrete stairs, it comes out to 1 and 1/4 yds. (note that anytime you order concrete to always figure in at least 10-15% more). So 1 and 1/2 yds "should" be adequate,, and ordering 2 yds would be 100% worry-free.
But most steps/staircases are not poured "solid". Usually you have solid walls (approx 8" to 12" thick), with a compacted mound in the main section of the formed area which still would allow approx 6" minimum thickness below the treads/risers at their inside edge.
The top platform slab should also be 6" thickness.
In other words, pouring them completely solid is overkill and not necessary. More weight = more prone to settle without proper foundation or wingwalls.
It\'s important to have a solid footing/foundation for the steps, that extends below the grade line (depth dependent on what area of the country you\'re in and the typical "frost line").
It may also be advisable to use short rebar "dowels" drilled into the existing wall the steps will be against, to prevent settling or shifting.
More specifics and info is needed for a more accurate answer.
What is in the room above the basement bathroom? And how large is the diameter of the vent pipe you need to run? Do you have a maximum number of elbows, and runs of feet maximum you can't exceed?
Is the Frame wall above the foundation, accessible by going up thru the ceiling of the bathroom, and the elbowing over and into the outrside frame wall at that point?-- and then up a ways, and then out thru the outside wall?
Another possibility would be: How far to a window, or vent already in the basement?-- Could you run the piping there, and then out?
How thick is the concrete wall?-- Is it reinforced Concrete-- or just Masonry Block wall? A block wall is not as hard to get thru--
I know I asked a lot of questions-- but maybe it helps you think thru your options?
Depends on the window, how it went in, will tell you how to get it out. They usually have a flange that nails to the wall and the siding will but up against it, some have a fin that nails up against a buck and plaster will **** up against it. Either way, you will have to remove the siding, plaster, trim, or whatever is on the side of the window and pull out the 1400 nails, take out the window, and get the new slider right back in the old hole, it should fit, most windows were standard, now days they are all custom fit to any size hole. But the bucks should still be in place and the drywall on the inside will not even be touched.