Question about Jamo DMR 60 DVD Player/Receiver

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Jamo model dmr60 blowing internal ac 5amp fuse on power supply pcb traced fault to also include component rt. Beleave fault to be power surge.please send me details of this component if possand where i can obtain scematic for power/pcb have serched manfactureshanny.com.cn but cant find information req. Thank you jim.

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SirHanz
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SOURCE: Speakers

Any make should do, just be sure the ohms match or else you run the risk of damaging the speakers if they are under rated, or the reciever if they are overrated. Usually it can range from 4 to 8 ohms, which is represented by a horseshoe shaped symbol.

Posted on Feb 11, 2008

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SOURCE: Jamo DMR60- sound doesn't match dvd

I have the same problem. I have been in contact with Jamo Denmakr and Norway. They are aware of the problem. There are two issues/answers:
1 If the DVD your're playing has scratches reading error accumulate and then audio sync problems occur. (My meaning is lo quality DVD drive). You might overcome this by reburning the divx file to a new disc to avoid read errors.
2 The DVD drive itself is defective and should be replaced. Warranty should cover this of course. I do receive my DMR-61 this week after DVD drive change. I hope this will fix it...but I don't believe so. Crossing my fingers.

Henning

Posted on Mar 28, 2008

SOURCE: Manual

Try the following link. http://www.jamo.com/Default.aspx?ID=5981

Posted on Oct 15, 2008

  • 11 Answers

SOURCE: Sudden lack of sound output

Check the red and white cables or use different ones

Posted on Jul 22, 2011

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Internal power? Check fuses. No fuses? Disassemble and check Power supply if it is internal. If it is external, check power supply with meter.;.

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The source may be the circuit board itself,since the fuse is only 5 amps I would strongly suspect this part, look for any heat damaged area, this is the usual suspect.

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No power, do not turn on


Check internal fuse kept close to the power supply wire on the PCB. Generally this will be covered in a small box.

Replace the fuse with identical one. If fuse blowing repeats, check power supply components like diodes, capacitors etc.

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Power surge or electrical outage tv blue light stays on with humming sound no picture


Hello,

Power surges or nearby lightning strikes can destroy electronic equipment. However, most of the time, damage is minimal or at least easily repaired. With a direct hit, you may not recognize what is left of it!Ideally, electronic equipment should be unplugged (both AC line and phone line!) during electrical storms if possible. Modern TVs, VCRs, microwave ovens, and even stereo equipment is particularly susceptible to lightning and surge damage because some parts of the circuitry are always alive and therefore have a connection to the AC line. Telephones, modems, and faxes are directly connected to the phone lines. Better designs include filtering and surge suppression components built in. With a near-miss, the only thing that may happen is for the internal fuse to blow or for the microcontroller to go bonkers and just require power cycling. There is no possible protection against a direct strike. However, devices with power switches that totally break the line connection are more robust since it takes much more voltage to jump the gap in the switch than to fry electronic parts. Monitors and TVs may also have their CRTs magnetized due to the electromagnetic fields associated with a lightning strike - similar but on a smaller scale to the EMP of a nuclear detonation.
Was the TV operating or on standby at the time? If it was switched off using an actual power switch (not a logic pushbutton or the remote control), then either a component in front of the switch has blown, the surge was enough to jump the gap between the switch contacts, or it was just a coincidence (yeh, right).
If the TV was operating or on standby or has no actual power switch, then a number of parts could be fried.
TVs usually have their own internal surge protection devices like MOVs (Metal Oxide Varistors) after the fuse. So it is possible that all that is wrong is that the line fuse has blown. Remove the cover (unplug it first!) and start at the line cord. If you find a blown fuse, remove it and measure across the in-board side of fuse holder and the other (should be the neutral) side of the line. The ohmmeter reading should be fairly high - well certainly not less than 100 ohms - in at least one direction. You may need to unplug the degaussing coil to get a reasonable reading as its resistance may be 25 or 30 ohms. If the reading is really low, there are other problems. If the resistance checks out, replace the fuse and try powering the TV. There will be 3 possibilities:
  1. It will work fine, problem solved.
  2. It will immediately blow the fuse. This means there is at least one component shorted - possibilities include an MOV, line rectifiers, main filter cap, regulator transistor, horizontal output transistor, etc. You will need to check with your ohmmeter for shorted semiconductors. Remove any that are suspect and see of the fuse now survives (use the series light bulb to cut your losses
  3. It will not work properly or appear dead. This could mean there are open fusable resistors other defective parts in the power supply or elsewhere. In this case further testing will be required and at some point you may need the schematic
hope this helpout......

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2 Answers

Tv won't turn on after a storm.


Hello,

Power surges or nearby lightning strikes can destroy electronic equipment. However, most of the time, damage is minimal or at least easily repaired. With a direct hit, you may not recognize what is left of it!

Ideally, electronic equipment should be unplugged (both AC line and phone line!) during electrical storms if possible. Modern TVs, VCRs, microwave ovens, and even stereo equipment is particularly susceptible to lightning and surge damage because some parts of the circuitry are always alive and therefore have a connection to the AC line. Telephones, modems, and faxes are directly connected to the phone lines. Better designs include filtering and surge suppression components built in. With a near-miss, the only thing that may happen is for the internal fuse to blow or for the microcontroller to go bonkers and just require power cycling. There is no possible protection against a direct strike. However, devices with power switches that totally break the line connection are more robust since it takes much more voltage to jump the gap in the switch than to fry electronic parts. Monitors and TVs may also have their CRTs magnetized due to the electromagnetic fields associated with a lightning strike - similar but on a smaller scale to the EMP of a nuclear detonation.

Was the TV operating or on standby at the time? If it was switched off using an actual power switch (not a logic pushbutton or the remote control), then either a component in front of the switch has blown, the surge was enough to jump the gap between the switch contacts, or it was just a coincidence (yeh, right).

If the TV was operating or on standby or has no actual power switch, then a number of parts could be fried.

TVs usually have their own internal surge protection devices like MOVs (Metal Oxide Varistors) after the fuse. So it is possible that all that is wrong is that the line fuse has blown. Remove the cover (unplug it first!) and start at the line cord. If you find a blown fuse, remove it and measure across the in-board side of fuse holder and the other (should be the neutral) side of the line. The ohmmeter reading should be fairly high - well certainly not less than 100 ohms - in at least one direction. You may need to unplug the degaussing coil to get a reasonable reading as its resistance may be 25 or 30 ohms. If the reading is really low, there are other problems. If the resistance checks out, replace the fuse and try powering the TV. There will be 3 possibilities:

It will work fine, problem solved.

It will immediately blow the fuse. This means there is at least one component shorted - possibilities include an MOV, line rectifiers, main filter cap, regulator transistor, horizontal output transistor, etc. You will need to check with your ohmmeter for shorted semiconductors. Remove any that are suspect and see of the fuse now survives.

It will not work properly or appear dead. This could mean there are open fusable resistors other defective parts in the power supply or elsewhere. In this case further testing will be required and at some point you may need the schematic.
Hope this help...

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hello make sure you put the same rated fuse back in beware if blows again then you've got a dead short somewhere

regards
shaun

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i have got the remote and i can supply to you for a small fee.
i have got the DMR 61 REMOTE and the DMR60 ALL BRAND NEW.
email me and make me an offer.

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turned out jamo denmark didnt had the spare parts to fix it?
can u believe that
so i wait 6 weeks and after 100 phone calls to denmark and my local dealer they deside to take the part out of another sub ?.
but i really had to make a a lot of effort to achive this
but for the price the jamo set is exellent
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These are switch mode power supplies and very difficult to repair. If you don't find all the blown components, they just blow up again when you try it. If that model has a separate module for the supply, you can try and order a replacement, but they usually are too expensive.
What model is it? Maybe I have a junker I can take the supply from for you?

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