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How to change alternator 2005 chryler 300


This answer covers:
2005 Chrysler 300 6cyl VIN "G" 3.5L SFI HO (72% of 2005 300's)
2005 Chrysler 300 6cyl VIN "R" 2.7L MFI DOHC (28% of 2005 300's)
2005 Dodge Magnum 5.7L engine

Alternator

Removal & Installation


WARNING - Precautions Section:
Disconnect negative cable from battery before removing battery output wire (b+ wire) from alternator. Failure to do so can result in injury or damage to electrical system.

2.7L Engine
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
  2. Disconnect negative battery cable.
  3. Remove alternator drive belt.
  4. Disconnect alternator field circuit plug.
  5. Remove B+ terminal nut and wire.
  6. Remove 2 lower mounting bolts.
  7. Remove alternator.
To install:
  1. Install alternator.
  2. Install upper bolt mounting bolt.
  3. Install 2 lower mounting bolts.
  4. Tighten bolts to 48 ft. lbs. (65 Nm).
  5. Install B+ terminal nut and wire. Tighten nut to 115 inch lbs. (13 Nm).
  6. Connect alternator field circuit plug.
  7. Install alternator drive belt.
  8. Connect negative battery cable.
3.5L Engines
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
  2. Disconnect negative battery cable.
  3. Remove alternator drive belt.
  4. Remove bracket bolts.
  5. Remove upper mounting bolt.
  6. Raise and support vehicle.
  7. Remove middle splash pan.
  8. Disconnect alternator field circuit plug.
  9. Remove B+ terminal nut and wire.
  10. Remove lower mounting bolts.
  11. Remove alternator.
To install:
  1. Install alternator.
  2. Install lower mounting bolts. Loosen install the upper mounting bolt.
  3. Tighten lower mounting bolts to 48 ft. lbs. (65 Nm).
  4. Connect alternator field circuit plug.
  5. Install B+ terminal nut and wire. Tighten nut to 115 inch lbs. (13 Nm).
  6. Install middle splash pan.
  7. Lower vehicle.
  8. Remove loose installed upper bolt.
  9. Install bracket and bracket bolt.
  10. Install upper mounting bolt and bracket.
  11. Tighten upper mounting bolt to 48 ft. lbs. (65 Nm).
  12. Tighten the bracket bolt to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
  13. Install alternator drive belt.
  14. Connect negative battery cable.
5.7L Engines
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
  2. Disconnect negative battery cable at battery.
  3. Remove alternator drive belt.
  4. Raise and support vehicle.
  5. Unsnap plastic insulator cap from B+ output terminal.
  6. Remove B+ terminal mounting nut at rear of alternator. Disconnect terminal from alternator.
  7. Disconnect field wire connector at rear of alternator by pushing on connector tab.
  8. Remove alternator support bracket nut and bolt. Remove support bracket. See Figure 1.
  9. Remove 2 alternator mounting bolts. See Figure 2.
  10. Remove alternator from vehicle.

Fig. 1 Alternator Support Bracket - 5.7L engine

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Fig. 2 Alternator Mounting Bolts - 5.7L engine

22b81ff7-7912-467f-9eaf-13ba2ff3a1a4.jpg

Oct 13, 2014 | 2005 Chrysler 300

Tip

Alternator Testing for 4400CL, 4600CL, and SC916 Steppers


The video demonstrates a unit with no resistance, the pedals fall to the floor. Checking that the alternator brushes are working properly is the recommended action. Tools Needed: 1/4" Nut Driver or Wrench
This is done by disconnecting the brown wire from the Field terminal of the alternator and the white wire from the B+ or POS terminal of the alternator. The wiring sticker should help you to identify the designated terminals. A jumper wire is needed to proceed with this test. (A jumper wire can be fashioned from wire with slip on connectors crimped to each end or the jumper can be a normal piece of wire with the coating stripped from each end. The designated terminals have a small hole that the stripped end of the wire can be threaded through to create the jumper.) Connect one end of the jumper wire to the B+ or POS terminal and the other end to the Field terminal. Step on the unit for about 10-15 seconds to verify resistance. If no resistance between the B+ or POS and Field, this normally indicates that the alternator brushes are worn or damaged.
Remove the jumper wire and then remove the alternator brushes for further inspection. Using the 1/4" driver or wrench, remove the two bolts from the brush cover. Once the bolts are removed, pull on the Field terminal to remove the alternator brushes.
Inspect the alternator brushes. The brushes should be smooth and free of cracks, nicks, and breaks. The brushes are spring loaded. Confirm when pressed that the brush will spring back to position. Replace the brushes if necessary.
When re-installing the alternator brushes to the alternator, the brushes will face down toward the inside of the alternator. (Due to the brushes being spring loaded, it may be necessary to press the brush into its housing for ease of installation and to avoid damaging the new brush.)
Test the unit after replacing the alternator brushes. Reconnect the jumper wire to the B+ or POS terminal and the Field terminal. Step onto the unit and verify resistance. In this example, the alternator brush replacement was all that was necessary to correct the resistance problem.
With resistance verified, it is time to remove the jumper wire and reconnect the white wire to the B+ or POS terminal and the brown wire to the Field terminal. Make sure all cables are connected (including the console cable) and this completes the alternator test

Testing Alternator of Stairmaster Steppers 4400CL 4600CL SC916

on Feb 25, 2015 | Stairmaster Exercise & Fitness

1 Answer

Missing the wires that go to the alternator


Both wires are red. 10 ga wire runs from Battery + terminal to Batt.
terminal on alternator.
Smaller wire routes 2 different ways.
On V8, runs through cluster to L terminal on alternator.
On V6 runs through cluster to PCM terminal 16B-- comes out from
terminal 35B to L terminal on alternator

Oct 04, 2013 | 1995 Chevrolet Camaro

1 Answer

Olds 88 alternator fuse


You may find a blown fusible link or burnt wire/bad connection at the starter large terminal.I would start the car and check voltage output at the alternator output terminal first in case it's just a bad alternator.If you have 14+ volts at the alternator output terminal,you could also just run a 10 gauge wire from that terminal to battery positive directly and disconnect the alt feed to the starter terminal.

Mar 29, 2017 | 1989 Oldsmobile Delta 88

1 Answer

Is there a fuse on the old school golf for the alternator ? i have installed a new regulator but the alternator only charge 12.1v and when i remove the batery terminal the motor stalls please help


I assume a new regulator has pased QC and is OK. Is your volt meter accurate? Just a tip - we do not test alternator by removing terminal. That burns the alternator.

Are you getting the 12.1 v from alternator at alternator end or at the battery terminal? Check the connection between the + terminal on alternator and the battery. That wire might be disconnected at the starter motor.

Sep 27, 2011 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How do I remove the alternator from a 93 ford bronco?



IDENTIFICATION

There are 4 different types of alternators found on the years and model ranges covered in this information:

  1. Rear Terminal, External Regulator, External Fan Alternator
  2. Side Terminal, Internal Regulator, External Fan Alternator
  3. Leece-Neville 165 Ampere Alternator
  4. Integral Rear Mount Regulator, Internal Fan Alternator

Rear Terminal, External Regulator, External Fan Alternator
This unit utilizes a separate, external electronic regulator. The regulator is non-adjustable. The rear terminal alternator was standard equipment on 1987 trucks, and can be found on some 1992 motor home chassis models equipped with the 7.3L diesel or 7.5L gasoline engine.
Side Terminal, Internal Regulator, External Fan Alternator
This unit was optional on 1987, standard on all 1988-92 models and standard on 1993-96 models equipped with the 4.9L and 7.5L engines. The regulator in integrated within the alternator body and is not adjustable.
Integral Rear Mount Regulator, Internal Fan Alternator
This alternator is standard equipment on all 1993-96 models equipped with 5.0L, 5.8L gasoline engines and 7.3L diesel engines (except the 1996 F-Super Duty models).
Leece-Neville 165 Ampere Alternator
This unit is optional equipment on some 1989-94 trucks and ambulance packages. A separate, electronic, fully adjustable regulator is employed in this system.
Mitsubishi 215 Ampere Alternator
This unit is found on 1996 F-Super Duty models equipped with the 7.3L diesel engine. The regulator is integral and the fan is external.


REMOVAL & INSTALLATION



See Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4



0996b43f8022502d.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

Fig. Fig. 1: Disengage all wiring harness connections from the alternator



0996b43f8022502e.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

Fig. Fig. 2: Once it is unbolted, maneuver the alternator from the engine compartment



0996b43f8020d83e.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

Fig. Fig. 3: Side terminal alternator



0996b43f8020d83f.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

Fig. Fig. 4: Rear terminal alternator

  1. Disconnect the battery ground cable.
  2. Remove the adjusting arm bolt.
  3. Remove the alternator through-bolt. Remove the drive belt from the alternator pulley and lower the alternator.

Some engines are equipped with a ribbed, K-section belt and automatic tensioner. A suitable tool must be made to remove the tension from the tensioner arm. Loosen the idler pulley pivot and adjuster bolts before using the tool..
  1. Label all of the leads to the alternator so that you can install them correctly and disconnect the leads from the alternator.
  2. Remove the alternator from the vehicle.
  3. To install, reverse the above procedure. Observe the following torques:

    Pivot bolt: 58 ft. lbs. (78 Nm) Adjusting bolt: 25 ft. lbs. (34 Nm) Wire terminal nuts: 60-90 inch lbs. (6.8-10.1 Nm)

Dec 15, 2010 | 1993 Ford Bronco

1 Answer

Hello, I have a 1995 Buick Riviera w/3.8 ltr supercharged VIN 1. I replaced the old alternator for being noisy-bearing worn. I went to Autozone and got a replacement alternator. the alternator is not...


Use a jumper to connect the positive terminal of the battery to the terminal L input of the alternator. That will give 12V to the exciter circuit of the voltage regulator and turn on the alternator so that it can begin charging. If that makes a difference, there must be something wrong with the input to terminal L.

Oct 04, 2010 | 1997 Buick Riviera

1 Answer

How to jump terminals to test external voltage regulator. this is on an ford taurus with an external regulator. There are 4 terminals, I = indicator lamp. S = stator of alternator. A = alternator or B+ of...


Jump terminals A to F and the alternator should full field and charge. If it charges then replace the regulator. if it doesn't charge replace the alternator. I remember the terminals by thinking of the word AIR FORCE .

Mar 31, 2010 | Ford Taurus Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

From an alternator ,there are tree wires .wihs gose to positriv?


Near the spade terminals, the rear housing should be marked #1 and #2. Some aftermarket housings are not marked and others may be worn off. So if your alternator housing is unmarked, look from the rear of the alternator: the #1 terminal is on the left and the #2 on the right. You only need an ignition wire to the #1 terminal to make an Si series alternator work. The #2 terminal is for voltage sensing, and is optional. The #2 voltage sensing terminal allows the voltage regulator to sense the battery voltage so it knows when to turn the alternator on and off. The #2 terminal, if it is not used, causes the regulator to revert to internal sensing and pick up the battery voltage at the main battery wire on the back of the alternator. Some alternators are wired with a jumper from the #2 terminal directly to the battery connection at the back of the alternators, but this is not needed.
go to site below ALL about alternators.

http://www.alternatorparts.com/FAQ.htm#how_to_wire

Feb 22, 2010 | Electric Delco MB1718 Mini Brute 1700 Psi ...

1 Answer

Alt plug labled P L F S what do each of these wires go to


found this at http://oljeep.com/gw/alt/edge_Alternator_Theory.html
(and yes, the Cavalier does use the CS130D alternator)

P-Terminal: Provides a 12Vdc square wave as in the CS-130 application. [The Pulse/Phase terminal can provide a 12V square wave to determine alternator speed, used by some Electronic Control Modules or vehicle computers. Connects to the stator. Some ICU’s monitor this signal and adjust engine parameters accordingly.]


F/I-Terminal: It gets a bit tricky here, as some applications do not incorporate a lamp circuit. In vehicle applications of the “no lamp” kind, this terminal is connected to the Ignition Switch, and an internal resistor is used to limit current and voltage. Other regulators use this terminal as an output and refer to this pin as a Field Terminal, as such, it provides an output that is proportional to the field duty cycle of the alternator to an a vehicles ECM. The ECM now has an input to sense alternator loading and engine loading, and can increase/decrease engine speed accordingly. Here is an important consideration, since the regulators on CS-130D type alternators have these two different types of regulators (F-Type or I-Type) they cannot be interchanged. I-Type regulators use the F/I-Terminal as an input and this can simply be an ignition source 12Vdc voltage that the alternator uses; F-Type regulators use the F/I-Terminal as an output (this ion is a signal that is provided to the vehicle computer and the computer uses it to monitor the field intensity of the alternator as an input. If you supply a 12Vdc signal to this input, you may very well ruin the alternators regulator.


L-Terminal: This is the lamp terminal and operates in the same manner as the CS-130 lamp circuit above. It is of interest to note that some applications use the ECM to send the L-Terminal a signal (5Vdc reference), and the F-Terminal responds with a signal sent to the ECM, in this application the ECM and the Regulator form a “closed loop” to control engine loading and alternator output.


S-Terminal: This is the “Sense” terminal and is connected to the battery. It senses the voltage level of the battery and feeds the regulator circuit this reference so that the regulator can adjust the Pulse Width Modulation to control the alternators output. The S-terminal on the CS-130D regulator is the same size as the other three terminals, unlike that of the CS-130.

Feb 15, 2010 | 2001 Chevrolet Cavalier

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