After taking out all 4 screws how do you open it. Power supply connector has been pushed in

Do you want to replace the external power supply? If so, just order an equivelent with the same voltage, amps (amps can be more, but not less), and mm pin diameter. It will work since electrons are all the same :)

If you don't know what mm pin diameter your supply is, and easy way to find out is look on ebay by typing in "aspire 5750-6589 power adapter", many listings will tell you the pin diameter, you can probably find a good one there too for a good price. Make sure it's certified (UL or otherwise), as uncertified supplies can run very hot and annoy or put you in danger. Don't pay more than $15 or you're wasting your money.

If you want to replace the internal power connector, where you plug your power cord into on your laptop, you have to take the bottom and top of the case off, you do this by taking out about 12 screws along the edge and pry the case open with a thin plastic shim, if you don't have a plastic shim you can order one in a laptop kit for $5, or you can use a paper towel on a flat-head screw driver to avoid damaging the case (you don't need the paper towel or plastic shim if you dont mind a little case damage).
Next, disconnect the screen hinges take out the keyboard by putting the screwdriver and shim on the edges and slowly and carefully prying it out (it just snaps in place on your model, no screws), and remove the keyboard to access a few other connectors under it (the power button connector and LCD connector and WiFi connector). The power board w/ cable (on the inside) is a $5 part and easy to replace, just hard to get to. make sure you place the screws inside a plastic zip lock or in a bowl as they are very small easy to lose.

If it's your first time opening up a laptop, its not actually hard, just time consuming. Your first time, make sure you put aside 3-4 hours of uninterrupted time, and go slow and avoid getting frustrated. There are many youtube videos that can guide you through many parts of the process, just type things like "open up an acer aspire laptop" and you'll get it done.

If you have to take a break, wrap electronic boards lightly in tinfoil if possible and place in a ziplock. (if you don't have an antistatic bag), and ziplock the screws and place everything inside a box. As long as you don't lose any parts, you can always put things back together later.

for replacing the fan you must open computer case unplug all power cords, remove 4 screws near the rear fan and pull out the power supply from the top interior. then you have at leat more 4 screws to remove the power supply cover out. then you will see the other 4 screws to remove the fan. if you just simply want to clean the fan open the computer case go to outside, take an air compressor and blow air into the fan and at the rear od the power supply on the air intake and you are done.

One or more of the power transistors are shorted. There are eight transistors in the amplifier section - 2 high & 2 low for each channel. This unit is difficult to open up to work on.

Unplug unit and check speakers with a multimeter to make sure they are not shorted.
Take off front panel (8 screws).
Remove power supply shield with yellow tape (2 screws).
Remove 2 screws holding top of power supply, loosen bottom screws.
Replace front and hold in place with a couple screws.
Turn unit around.
Remove screws holding heatsink (6 screws)
Open rear storage door.
Carefully pull amp section out, being careful of tightly routed wires. Note any connectors you disconnect.
The amplifier is the board on the top, the power supply is in the silver box.
Push the power supply forward and loose the black screws holding the amplifier board bracket closest to the heatsink.
Loosen the top brass screws holding bracket to heatsink and remove the bottom screws.
Remove all eight of the screws holding the transistor brackets & transistors to the heatsink. Look and take careful note of how the plastic insulators weave through the transistors. If you get this wrong, you can short out the whole amplifier when you turn it on.
Slide the amplifier board down and out where you can get to the bottom. Note the wires and connectors going to the small protect board over the amplifier.
Check the transistors with a multimeter to find the shorted ones. Remove and replace bad transistors. These are connected in pairs.
Reassemble in reverse. Be careful of reconnecting wires and insulators. Don't test until the amplifier PCB is back in place and you're sure of all wires. If the PCB is touching the power supply, you'll short it out.

Good luck, I told you this wouldn't be easy!

yeah see if the power supply fan is not working the easiest alternative is to replace the power supply but if you don't want to change the full power supply all because of just a fan then in that case unplug the power supply and all its connectors connecting to sata drives,ide drives,motherboard,graphics cards,pci-express and all .Unscrew the supply from the cabinet/chasis and take it out 2.after you are done open it there are fine threaded screws on it,locate all of them on the surface and open them now when you are done take the cover off and after that,unscrew the fan from the front of the supply it has four screws,after that its wires will either be soldered to the board or will have a connector .you are really lucky if it has a connector just plug it out and install the new fan in its place and tighten the screws of the fan but if it is soldered then YOU SHOULD ONLY ATTEMPT SOLDERING IF YOU ARE GOOOD AT SOLDERING AS EXCESSIVE SOLDER APPLIED CAN SHORT CIRCUIT THE TERMINALS INSIDE THE SUPPLY AND RESULT IN FIRE AS VOLTAGE IS 110/220VOL IN MOST PARTS OF THE SUPPLY .Use a solder of 25watt or less as excess heating can damage delicate components inside also be sure to connect the new fan in correct polarity + and - .... after you are done just assemble it and connect the supply to the system plug in all wires ..your problem is solved without changing the supply :)

One or more of the power transistors are shorted. There are eight transistors in the amplifier section - 2 high & 2 low for each channel. This unit is difficult to open up to work on.

Unplug unit and check speakers with a multimeter to make sure they are not shorted.
Take off front panel (8 screws).
Remove power supply shield with yellow tape (2 screws).
Remove 2 screws holding top of power supply, loosen bottom screws.
Replace front and hold in place with a couple screws.
Turn unit around.
Remove screws holding heatsink (6 screws)
Open rear storage door.
Carefully pull amp section out, being careful of tightly routed wires. Note any connectors you disconnect.
The amplifier is the board on the top, the power supply is in the silver box.
Push the power supply forward and loose the black screws holding the amplifier board bracket closest to the heatsink.
Loosen the top brass screws holding bracket to heatsink and remove the bottom screws.
Remove all eight of the screws holding the transistor brackets & transistors to the heatsink. Look and take careful note of how the plastic insulators weave through the transistors. If you get this wrong, you can short out the whole amplifier when you turn it on.
Slide the amplifier board down and out where you can get to the bottom. Note the wires and connectors going to the small protect board over the amplifier.
Check the transistors with a multimeter to find the shorted ones. Remove and replace bad transistors. These are connected in pairs.
Reassemble in reverse. Be careful of reconnecting wires and insulators. Don't test until the amplifier PCB is back in place and you're sure of all wires. If the PCB is touching the power supply, you'll short it out.

Good luck, I told you this wouldn't be easy!

very easy. 4 screws hold supply on on each side of the PSU. Firmly grasp the connector (24 or 20 pin ) from the Motherboard. Now remove the 4 pin ( 2 yellow 2 black) connector from the board ( may be keyed as other NB connector. Remove the power connectors from CDROM, Floppy, Hard Disk and anything else with connectors. You should now remove the supply.

first unscrew the cover of the computer, then
i suggest you take out all the connectors, so that you can dettach the power supply easily.remove the screws at the back of the power supply, which is in the back panel of the cpu chassis.
unplug the 24 or 20 pin connector from the cpu and all the power cords that supply the peripherals, take out the power supply and replace with a new one.
Plug the screws, plug the 20 or 24 pin power connector into your motherboard, and supply devices like your hard disk, cd rom by plugging in the power cords.
note, if your computer has a 4pin connector, make sure that you plug it in.

Heres a video tutorial on the step by step process.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y_Ch2Tdj1fM

hope this will help you out.
Thank you: )

There are 3 screws at the bottom of the unit. Take those out.
At the bottom get a small screwdriver and slowly start to push inbetween the plastic. there are tabs all around the side of the unit. You have to be careful and push in and it will snap open.
There isnt too much cable for the power switch, so you will have to disconnect the cable. this will allow the rest to open up.

Once you do this, 4 screws hold the LCD in place, remove these. Carefully from the bottom pivot the LCD screen. On the right hand side 4 connectors will need to be unplugged and one main cable on the left had side. Be careful not to damage the socket.

There is a metal enclosuer that has to be removed, once done open the top and remove the power board. There are about 12-14 capacitors that if you replace them. The unit should power up.

Here's something you can try: If you can borrow a computer power supply rated at 350 Watts or more from someone, do the following: Unplug your power supply from the motherboard. If it's an older model (pre-Pentium 4), there will be one wide (20-pin) white plastic connector. Along one of the long sides of the connector, there's a retaining latch. Squeeze it, and gently rock the connector from side to side along its length, while pulling up. The connector should come free. If it's a newer PC, there will be a second connector with 4 pins, and yellow and black wires. If so, squeeze its latch and just pull up on it. Next, disconnect the white power connectors from the optical drives, hard drive, and floppy drive. If the internal fan you talk about is a case fan, unplug it, too. At this point, you should be able to take all of the power cables and hold them out of the case.

Now, plug the power cables from the power supply you borrowed into all of the sockets you just vacated. The motherboard connection(s) have a little nub on one side; this lines up with the latch on the plug(s). The hard drive and optical drive connectors only fit one way. The floppy connection is wider on one long edge; this sits on a little shelf when the connector is plugged in. Plug in the case fan. Make sure the borrowed unit is not resting inside the case. Finally, plug the AC power cord into the socket on the borrowed power supply. You should now be ready to push the PC's power button. Do so.

If the PC boots fine, you have a bad/failing power supply installed in it. Sometimes they just don't have enough power to boot the motherboard when other accessories are also drawing power. If more accessories than those which came with the PC were added, this makes the problem worse.

If this works, you need to replace the original power supply. With your PC turned off and unplugged, remove the 4 screws holding the power supply to the back of the case. Lift the unit out. If you can keep the borrowed one, it's simple. Place it into your casr where you removed the original one (note the unit will fit two ways, but the screw holes only line up with one of them), line up the screw holes, and install/tighten the screws. Plug in the AC cord, and boot the PC up. If everything is okay, turn it off.

Since you're already inside the case, take some canned are and dust off the internals. Be especially sure to remove any dust between the processor's heat sink fins. Hold the processor fan with a finger to keep it from spinning.

Of course, if you CAN'T keep the borrowed unit, disconnect it as above, obtain a replacement, and repeat the installation/connection steps above.

Let me know if this works.

Fuser error probally needs fuser replaced and the reset as below

try this

1. Hit Additional Functions Key
2. Hit # key
3. Arrow to number 7, Printer and hit Set
4. Arrow to number 4, Printer Re-Set and hit Set.
5. Yes, re-set printer (hit minus key - back arrow).
6. Unplug the machine and plug it back in.

or this is explaination of the error and required fix from service manual.


E0000000
The reading of the main thermistor does not reach 30°C 1 sec after the main
power switch is turned on. Or, it does not reach 70°C 2 sec thereafter.
Main cause The fixing film unit is faulty. The main thermistor has an open circuit. The
fixing heater has an open circuit. The main power supply PCB is faulty. The
DC controller PCB is faulty.
Caution To reset the error, execute the following in service mode:
COPIER>FUNCTION>CLEAR>ERR.
Action
1. Connector
Is the connector of the fixing assembly connected?
a. main power supply PCB (J8) <-> relay connector <-> heater
b. DC controller PCB (J320) <-> relay connector <-> thermistor
NO: Connect the connector.
2. Fixing film unit (thermistor)
Check the interval between pin 1 and pin 2 and between pin 3 and pin 4 of
the connectosr (4-pin) of the thermistor for electrical continuity. Is it ¥W
(open)?
YES: The heater has an open circuit, or the thermal switch is open. Replace the fixing film unit.
4. Main power supply PCB, DC controller PCB
Press the Start key. Is the drive voltage of the heater supplied by the connector J8 of the main power supply PCB?
Main heater: between J8-1 (FSR1) and J8-5 (FSR COM)
Sub heater: between J8-3 (FSR2) and J8-5 (FSR COM)
YES: The heater drive power supply is faulty. Replace the main power
supply PCB.
NO: The thermistor control mechanism is faulty. Replace the DC controller
PCB.