Question about Whirlpool 25.6 cu. ft. Side-by-Side Refrigerator with In-Door-Ice Dispensing System

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Whirlpool refrigerator I have a whirlpool Mark 1 series. The problem is that the refrigerator side is not cooling properly. The freezer side is doing great. What do you think the problem might be?

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

SOURCE: ge refrigerator model TFH22JW problem

You most likely have an automatic defrost problem. When one of more of the defrost components fails, frost accumulates behind the freezer wall and restricts airflow to the fresh food side. You will still generate cold into the freezer section but will have virtually no cold to fresh food side. If it is a few years old it is most likely the defrost heater which is defective. Replace the defrost thermostat (bi-metal) as well.

Posted on Oct 02, 2007

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SOURCE: refrigerator problem

3 most common things that cause this are a defrost problem (will notice frost build up on back freezer panel), bad evaporator fan motor (should hear fan running in the freezer), or bad damper (vent to the fridge section). If no frost and fan is running check for air flow out of the vent. It should be at the top of the fridge section.

Posted on Oct 05, 2007

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SOURCE: Whirlpool Refrigerator - Model# ED22LF

Tom, I would start with the overload and relay that is on the compressor, If it is white it's a good possibility that it has failed. The fact that both sides are not cooling leaves me to believe the compressor is not operating. Take the overload and relay off. If they are both contained in a white cover shake it. If it rattles, I believe that is your problem. Let me know what you find...Catriver.

Posted on Jun 28, 2008

  • 481 Answers

SOURCE: whirlpool conquest 2001 GS6SHAXKQ01 refrigerator side by side top part is not cooling

the first one sounds like it is slowly leaking freon.

  •  the second Sounds like a defrost problem. Check to see if there is any frost buildup in the back wall of the freezer. If so, it is not defrosting as it should.
  • possible causes:
  1. bad defrost timer/control board
  2. bad defrost heater (in freezer)
  3. bad thermo switch in freezer
If you don’t know what these are then unplug the machine and let the ice melt in the freezer overnight with the door open. Then try it the next day, if is cooling fine then you need to have a service person replace one of the above items. If it still has a problem then it might be the compressor and you should probably replace the machine.

Posted on Jun 29, 2008

  • 9 Answers

SOURCE: my refrigerator is not cooling the freezer is working

please check the rear interior freezer wall to see if there is any ice built up.If yes,that means you have a defrost heater problem.The defrost system consists of 3 components,1)defrost timer,2)the actual heater(which is located right inside the evaporator coil compartment),and 3)a terminating stat(which shuts off the the heater before the heat cycle ends to prevent overheating).There are ways to test this with a volt and amp meter. So,if this is the case,and you need a temporary fix,and I do mean temporary,(3-5 days)you can turn off the fridge for 24 hours and leave just the freezer door open until the ice melts,OR unplug fridge,then remove the interior back panel of the freezer and melt the ice by pouring hot water over the iced up coils(CAUTION:DO NOT POKE IT WITH AN ICE PICK OR ANYTHING,YOU WILL MAKE A HOLE IN THE EVAPORATOR).after ice is melted,reassemble rear panel plug it in,and it will buy you a few days. In a refrigerator, all the cold is produced in the freezer section,then through a small hole in the dividing wall,a small percentage of cool air is blown into the fresh food section.When the coils do not defrost 3-4 times a day like they should,the air cannot pass thru them and no air will be delivered to the fresh food section. Now, if you don't see any traces of ice buildup,you may have the air exchange door in the wrong position.The air door is a little door that determines how much air is passing thru to the fresh food section.Most fridges have the selector with either numbers or letters.Example A-B-C-D-E OR 1-2-3-4-5.Now when this air door selector is in the "1" or "A" position it means the maximum amount of cold air is going to the fresh food section,which in your case,is where you want it to go. Anyway if this is the case with you, after you have made the adjustment,please wait 24 hours to take effect,it's a slow process. I hope these suggestions help you. I know I probably gave more info than you needed to know. Good luck

Posted on Aug 26, 2009

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No reset of that kind. Did you loose cooling gradually over several days? if yes, you may have a problem with the defrost system causing an excessive frost buildup in the freezer section. symptoms would be excessive frost on freezer back wall. Possibly a bad defrost heater. Replace defective part and manually defrost refrigerator before re-starting.

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It sounds like one of two things, either the evaporator fan is not running(fan in the back of the freezer behind lower back panel) or the bi-metal thermostat that may be in series with it is open..
Also some newer models use a lower voltage fan motor, use to be all were 120 volts........
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