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Re: Diesel car amps not working
With out being given much information to work with I can only give you a basic run down of what the problem might be. It sounds like the MOSFET amplifiers have blown out on those channels that are not working. Did your system become ungrounded at some point while it was playing, and or did you have some kind of power surge?
Let me know the conditions under which the problem happened and I might be able to provide a better analysis.
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if you are trying to use it with the stock headunit you would need to buy a line output converter to use your amp and sub.
after you buy the converter you will then need to splice into one of your rear speaker wires so you can run the rca's to the amp and continue with normal install
That is still a single channel cass D amp. Each (-) and each (+) terminal are connected so its actually like only having one. This is so you can hook speakers up in a series circuit to lower impedance, because this amp is 1ohm stable. What causes your speakers to blow is too much power. What kind of speakers are you running? This hifonics amp is very powerful, they are getting big in the competition industries beacuse they put our true power for less money and they are tough. That 1600 amp you have may be putting out more like 1800 watts at 14.4 volts which is 900 per sub at 1ohm so be careful this amp has tons of power and its true rated its not like a sony or rocksford or kenwood that says 1800 max and then in small writing it says 500 rms. This amp puts out true. I have 3 hifonics amps and love them.
ok here is how it goes power wire from the battery all the way to amp..then ground wire from amp to a good ground on car then the remote wire which you have to run from the amp to the back of your stereo which in most cases is blue then hook subs from the sub box to the amp
for $85 i can sell you an Almani 900 watt 2 channel amp i would stay way away from those 3 brands they are all really poor quality and i can get you any major name brand cheaper.
I can get you a hifonics 4008 amp (800 watts peak 100 watts per channel rms) for $100 shipped with full factory warranty. you find an amp you like and i will get you a price. I am a factory wholesale distributor for most brands.
You need to use a multimeter to confirm that you have a good ground and sufficient voltage on the B+ and remote wires. I'll assume that you've checked the on-board fuses (if it has them).
With your multimeter set to DC volts, the black meter lead on the ground terminal of the amp (not on the point where the ground wire connected to the vehicle) and the head unit on (so the amp will have remote voltage applied), touch the red lead alternately to the B+ and remote terminals of the amp. If the voltage is below ~11 volts, you need to check the wiring feeding whichever line is too low.
If the voltage remains near or above 12v and the amp does nothing, the amp probably has a blown power supply.
a) check your ground b) check your remote wire c) (this is the one you really don't want it to be) it is possible that your vehicle can not supply the required power to the amp, if this is the case a bigger battery and better altinater will probably be your only options or possibly a capacitor thrown into the wiring