Question about Beverage-Air DP93 Refrigerator

2 Answers

I've purchased a new suction / cap tube assembly for this model. Is there a way to break down the cabinet to replace this without damaging the stainless steel cabinet..cannot find a logical way to disassemble it. What am I missing?

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  • service692 Jul 15, 2010

    Yes, as I was saying, I obviously want to make a proper repair without compromising the quality of the cabinet. I guess I'm wanting input on what to do and not input on what not to do. Anyone else have experience with this repair?

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  • Master
  • 493 Answers

Hi,

Here is the parts manual for your device. It may be usefull.

Best wishes.

Posted on Jul 15, 2010

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  • Master
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Hi, Am sorry, when you brake down the cabinet, you will be unable to assemble it back ,cause you will damage where to fix it screw to assemble it back.

Take care.

Posted on Jul 14, 2010

  • service692 Jul 15, 2010

    So then, what would you suggest? The assembly is sold by the manufacturer as a replacement part, so I'm assuming there are steps to be taken to get the repair done.

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How do i rebuild 41mm forks


Depends on how much rebuilding you want to do.
See below:

FRONT FORK 2.16
CHANGING FORK OIL On a 2010 Touring Motorcycle 41 mm Fork
If only replacing the fork oil remove the for, clamp a fork holder tool in a vise in a horizontal position and with the fork cap bolt topside securely clamp the fork into the tool, remove the fork cap bolt, remove and discard the quad ring seal, carefully remove the fork tube plug from the fork tube and because it is under strong spring pressure have and maintain a firm grasp on the plug as the last thread is turned because it will want to fly upwards under the spring pressure, remove and discard the O-ring fork tube plug o-ring, remove the fork spring from the fork tube, remove the fork assembly from the fork tube holder tool, being aware that the damper valve if one is installed (All touring models, with the exception of Road King, have a damper valve type fork on both the left and right sides. Road King uses the conventional type fork on both sides.) will fall out when the fork tube is inverted for draining turn the fork upside down and drain the fork oil into a suitable drain pan while slowly pumping the fork tube and slider at least ten times and then allow about 10-15 minutes for the fork assembly to completely drain. THEN with the fork tube right-side-up securely clamp the fork slider (not the fork tube) into the fork tube holder, install the drain plug at the bottom of the fork slider, if it had been removed and tighten the plug to 72-96 in-lbs (8-11 Nm).

MODEL FORK TYPE AMOUNT
OZ. ML IN. MM
All models Damper Valve 10.7 317 4.92 125
Except FLHR/C
FLHR/C Conventional 11.0 325 4.92 125

Pour slightly more Harley-Davidson Type E Fork Oil directly into the fork tube than is specified for the fork type, slowly pump the fork tube until some resistance is felt and then pump a few more times and then for all models except FLHR/C (i.e. for damper valve type forks), install a new wear ring in its groove in the damper valve, with the wear ring at the bottom (spring side up) slide the damper valve into the fork tube, install the fork spring into the fork tube, use the fork spring to push the damper valve to the bottom of the fork tube, remove the fork spring from the fork tube, slowly pump the fork tube a few more times to eliminate air from the damper valve, adjust the ring of a fork level gauge 4.92 inches or 125mm and then with the fork tube bottomed in the fork slider insert the tube of the gauge into the fork slider until the metal ring rests flat on the top of the fork tube and use the gauge plunger to draw oil from fork (if no oil is drawn out, add a small amount to the fork tube and repeat the process) until the oil level is at the specified level in the fork slider, install the fork spring into the fork tube with the tighter wound coils at the bottom, remove the fork slider from the fork tube holder tool, clamp fork tube into the fork tube holder tool, install a newO-ring onto the fork tube plug, install the fork tube plug into the fork tube and tighten it to 60-70 ft-lbs (81.4-94.9 Nm), install a newquad ring seal onto the fork cap bolt and install it into the fork tube plug to prevent loss of fork oil while working further with it. THEN on right side fork, loosely install the axle holder with its flat
washers, lockwashers and nuts, install the fork and assemble the motorcycle.

To remove a 2010 Touring 41 mm fork assembly FIRSTraise the front wheel, remove the front wheel, remove the front fender, and for FLHR/C remove the headlamp nacelle. And for FLHX, FLHT/C/U, FLHTK remove inner fairing cap, and for FLTRX remove the instrument nacelle, loosen the fork cap bolt, but do not
remove it at this time, loosen the pinch bolt but do not remove it, hold the fork slider to prevent the fork from dropping, remove the fork cap bolt from the fork tube plug, slide the fork tube down to remove. And loosely install the fork cap bolt to prevent loss of fork oil while working with the fork.

DISASSEMBLY
To disassemble a 2010 Touring 41mm fork assembly FIRST remove the fork assembly, the right side fork remove the axle holder from the end of the fork slider, drain the fork, install the fork spring into the fork tube, place a shop cloth or towel on the floor, turn the fork assembly upside down, press the end of the spring against the shop cloth or towel to prevent rotation of the damper tube and remove the metric screw from the end of the fork slider with an air impact wrench, discard the screw and copper washer, remove the fork spring, the damper valve (if equipped) and the damper tube from the fork tube, remove the wear ring and rebound spring from the damper tube, remove the wear ring from the damper valve, (if equipped), remove the retaining clip using an appropriate pick tool, remove the fork tube from the fork slider by using the fork tube as a slide hammer tool, slide the fork oil seal, the slider spacer and the slider bushing off from the end of the fork tube, discard the fork oil seal and the slider bushing, gently pry at the split line to expand the fork leg bushing and remove it from its groove at the end of the fork tube, discard the fork leg bushing and remove the lower stop from fork the slider.

CLEANING AND INSPECTION
Thoroughly clean and inspect all parts and replace any parts that are corroded, bent, inoperative or otherwise obviously damaged, inspect the fork cap bolt quad ring seal and the fork tube plug o-ring for cuts, tears or signs of deterioration and replace if and as necessary, replace the retaining clip if is bent or distorted, check the slider and the fork leg bushings for scratches or excessive wear and always replace bushings in a set if either bushing needs to be replaced, check both the fork tube and the fork slider for scoring, scratches and excessive or abnormal wear and replace parts if and as required, set the fork tube on V-blocks and measure its runout using a dial indicator gauge and replace it if the runout exceeds 0.008 in. (0.2 mm), inspect the upper fork spring and the rebound spring for damage or distortion, and replace the upper fork spring if its free length is less than19.27 in. (489.4 mm) for Non-Fairing Models and 18.73 in. (475.7 mm) for Fairing Models and replace the rebound spring if its free length is less than 0.938 in. (23.8 mm) or any time the upper fork spring is replaced.

ASSEMBLY
To assemble a 2010 Touring 41 mm fork assembly FIRST coat the ID of the fork leg bushing with clean fork oil, expand the fork leg bushing at the split line only enough to slip it over the end of the fork tube and into its groove on the fork tube, install a newwear ring into the groove at the top of the damper tube, install the rebound spring on the opposite end, with the wear ring topside slide the damper tube into the fork tube so that the tube end drops through the hole at the bottom of the fork tube, install the lower stop at the end of the damper tube, install the fork slider into the fork tube holder tool, slide the fork tube into the fork slider, coat the ID of the slider bushing with clean fork oil, slide the slider bushing down the fork tube, slide a 41 mm fork seal installer tool down the fork tube and using the it as a slide hammer drive the slider bushing into the counterbore of the fork slider, then remove the tool, place masking tape over edge of the fork tube to avoid damaging the lip of the fork oil seal during installation, coat the ID ofa new fork oil seal with clean new fork oil, then with the lip garter spring side facing down toward the fork slider slide the seal down the fork tube until it contacts the slider spacer, remove the masking tape from the edge of the fork tube and using the 41 mm fork seal installer tool as a slide hammer, drive the fork oil seal down the fork tube until the retaining clip groove is visible above the seal in the ID of the fork slider, remove the tool, install the retaining clip in the groove, install the fork spring into fork the fork tube, remove the fork assembly from the fork tube holder tool, place a shop cloth or towel on the floor, turn the fork assembly upside down and press the end of the spring against the shop cloth or towel to prevent rotation of the damper tube, install a new screw and a new copper washer at the bottom of the fork slider and while compressing the spring tighten the screw to 132-216 in lbs(14.9-24.4 Nm), remove the fork spring from the fork tube, fill the fork with fork oil to the specified amount and complete assembly of the fork. On the right side fork, loosely install the axle holder with its flat
washers, lockwashers and nuts.

INSTALLATION
To install a 2010 Touring 41 mm fork assembly FIRST remove the fork cap bolt, slide the fork tube up and into the slider cover, lower the fork bracket, the fork stop, and the upper fork bracket, install the fork cap bolt, install the pinch bolt and lockwasher into the lower fork bracket and tighten the pinch bolt to 53-57 ft-lbs(71.9-77.3 Nm), tighten the fork cap bolt to 60-70 ft-lbs (81.4-94.9 Nm) and repeat these steps on the other fork, install the front fender and wheel, and for FLHR/C install the headlamp nacelle, for FLHX, FLHT/C/U, FLHTK install the fairing inner cap and for FLTRX install the instrument nacelle.

May 15, 2014 | 2010 Harley Davidson FLHX Street Glide

1 Answer

Change fork oil street bob 2007


To change the oil or to rebuild a 2007 DYNA front fork FIRST raise and support the motorcycle so that the front end is off the floor and the forks are fully extended, remove the brake caliper and the front wheel, remove the front fender, loosen the pinch bolt screws, do not remove the tube caps, slide the fork sides downward clear of the fork brackets, repeat the procedure for the opposite fork tube and slider assembly.

To disassemble a 2007 DYNA front fork clamp the fork tube and slider assembly in a fork tube holder tool mounted horizontally in a vise, use a 12mm Allen wrench is needed to loosen but do not remove the seat pipe screw, while the internal components are still under tension and less prone to rotate, on the right fork tube and slider assembly, remove the axle holder to access the seat pipe screw, remove the fork tube cap and its o-ring, remove the long spring collar, remove the fork assembly from the fork tube holder tool and invert it over a suitable container to catch the fork oil and allowing thefork to drain, extend and retract the slider several times to push oil out of the internal fork components, the washer, and the spring will fall out of fork tube. THEN clamp the fork tube in the fork tube holder tool, remove the slider cover from the slider by inserting a brass drift into the notch in the slider and lightly tapping the cover loose, compress the stopper ring and remove the stopper ring from the groove in the top of the slider bore, Do not remove slider tube caps without relieving the spring preload or the caps and springs may fly out. THEN remove the seat pipe screw and its washer from the bottom of the slider and retain them for reuse, withdraw the slider from the fork tube until the bushing guide contacts the bushing on the fork tube (the bushing guide is a slight interference fit in the slider), then using the slider as a slide hammer, hit the bushing with the bushing guide with a quick continuous stroke until the slider is pulled free from the fork tube, drain the slider and allow the stop oil lock piece to fall free. (If you are only changing the oil or replacing the slider the remaining parts can be left assembled and the fork re-assembled) If it is still attached to the seat pipe remove the stop oil lock piece from the lower end of the seat pipe, remove the seat pipe piston and the ring assembly, remove the rebound spring, remove the oil seal, remove the seal spacer, and remove the bushing guide. Repeat the foregoing procedure for the opposite fork tube and slider assembly.

Thoroughly clean and inspect each part and if and as necessary replace any corroded, worn, bent, broken or otherwise damaged parts, inspect the fork tube bushing and the slider guide bushing and replace if and as required, always replace all oil seals and all o-rings, check the dust cover where it rubs on the fork tube (it should have a good and continuous seal and not show excessive wear, check the fork tube where it rubs on dust the cover and the tube should show a bright, shiny surface, free of scoring or abrasions, if any spring(s) is/are broken they must be replaced, if a fork tube or slider is bent or damaged it must also be replaced now, replace all other worn or damaged components if and as necessary.

To assemble a 2007 DYNA fork FIRST insert the seat pipe assembly with the spring into the slider tube, slide the bushing guide down to the bushing on the fork tube, follow it with the spacer, the oil seal, the stopper ring, the dust shield and the slider cover, install the fork tube into the fork tube holder tool, fit the lower stop onto the seat pipe, slide the seat pipe back into the fork tube until the seat pipe is centered in the tube, gently install the slider assembly onto the slider tube and the bushing, thread the seat pipe screw and washer into the seat pipe through the bottom of the slider assembly, draw the fastener into the seat pipe but do not tighten it at this time, verify the proper action of the fork by moving the slider up and down the fork tube, locate the appropriate fork seal driver over the fork tube in front of the oil seal with the fork seal chamfered lips facing the oil in the fork, in the following order assemble thetop oil seal, the spacer and the bushing guide into the slider bore, install the stopper ring into its groove above the oil seal, push the dust seal against the oil seal and stopper ring, rotate the slider cover to match any removal burrs to the notch in the slider and snap the slider cover into place. THEN operate the slider through its full range of travel several times to verify alignment and proper smooth operation, then pulling down on the slide to apply downward force on the rebound spring, tighten the seat pipe screw to 106-159 in-lbs (12-18 Nm), vertically re-position the fork tube into the fork tube holder tool and with the slider tube compressed, fill the fork with Harley-Davidson TYPE E FORK OIL until it is approximately the amount specified below for the type or motorcycle and fork that it is.

a. FXDWG- approximately 29.6 oz (875 cc) and distance from the top of the fork tube = 4.4 in (112 mm); and
b. All other Dyna models- approximately 26.6 oz (787 cc) and distance from the top of the fork tube = 4.3 in (110 mm)
THEN slowly pump the slider 8 to 10 times to remove air from the fork assembly and fully compress the slider to properly measure the oil level which is measured from the top of the fork tube, with the spacer and the spring removed and the fork fully compressed, then using an appropriate oil level gauge tool adjust the oil level to appropriate level for the fork type and model, pull out the slider and install the spring in the fork tube with the tightly wound end at the bottom, install the washer and the spring collar, carefully to avoid cross threading, install the fork tube cap with a new o-ring and tighten it to 16-43 ft-lbs (22-58 Nm). Repeat the process for the other fork tube and slider assembly.

To install the fork in a 2007 DYNA FIRST insert the fork tube and the slider assemblies up through the lower triple clamp and the upper triple clamp so that the fork tubes will protrude above the upper triple clamp 0.450-0.500 in. (11.4-12.7 mm) with the measurement taken at the midpoint of the fork tube between the top surface of the triple clamp and the top of the fork cap and when properly positioned tighten the pinch bolts to 30-35 ft-lbs (41- 48 Nm), install the front fender and bracket, install the front brake caliper(s), install the front wheel and align the wheel to the forks.

May 11, 2014 | 2006 Harley Davidson FXDBI Street Bob

1 Answer

Lg 1.5 tr split ac capilary replaced.size 5.0 ,length 1 1/2 ft. gas charging done.ac running for 20 mints.after 10.7 amps incressing and of the compressor over heat.i will replaced 50+4 running...


The best practice when replacing a cap tube is to replace it with the identical size and length of the old cap tube. Also, you must run it in the same way, if the cap tube was soldered to the suction line in any area then the replacement should also be soldered to the suction line. The old cap tube should have been stretched out, measured and gauged with a cap tube gauge. If you just went by load, it appears your cap tube is the wrong size, should be a #4 or .064ID and not a #5 .028ID. This is just based on some cap tube sizing charts I looked at assuming you have a single cap tube and not a multi circuit evap. Other than the cap tube the symptoms point to a system that was overcharged, dirty condenser, condenser fan motor not running. If you have a way to check suction and discharge pressures this will be the best way to see what is going on.

May 10, 2014 | Heating & Cooling

2 Answers

The fill valve must be clogged. But I can't get the cap off. How do I rotate it while holding up the arm? Is there some trick I am missing? It is a 400 series


The cap will pop off(just a little pressure be careful not to break tabs)then rotate top with arm 1/4 turn then lift valve assembly out there is a diaphragm remove(be sure water to valve is off!!)then turn water on slowly that will flush out inlet tube then you have to clean rubber diaphragm very good(hot water is better to clean diaphragm off with)if that doesn't work you can get new diaphragm from plumbing,hardware,or home improvement stores.

Jun 04, 2011 | Fluidmaster Plumbing

1 Answer

Can I lay down an Emerson 4.6 cu ft refrigerator to fit in my car to transport


Even though it's not the preferred method of transport, it's OK to lay a refrig down for moving, even new R134a if you pay close attention to the refrigerant lines.

Determine where the suction line runs up into the freezer. This is the largest tube connected to the compressor, and is usually (though not always) visible running up the back of the cabinet.

As long as the refrig is laid down on whichever side allows this line to stay 'high', there'll be minimal oil migration, and when you arrive at your destination, just stand it upright for an hour or so and it'll be fine. Obviously, the shorter the trip, the better.

If the suction line runs up the door handle side, just duct-tape the doors securely closed before you lay it down to keep them from opening and getting damaged. It helps to lay a block of wood under the top end, just to keep it inclined a bit, too.

I've been moving refrig's for some 32 years now, and while moving them in an upright position IS best, sometimes you just can't. I work out of a van, and have often laid both refrig's and upright freezers down for transport with no ill effects.

May 12, 2011 | Emerson Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

I replaced compressor for a hussman refrig and its hums loud


God day,
Some thoughts.
1. Are the evap fan motors running, and at full speed. That would give you abnormally low suction pressure.
2. Cap tube sized too small. or partial restriction in the dryer cap tube/dryer when brazing in the lines.
3. Low ambient. What's the temp the machine is running in.
4. Over sized compressor.
5. Moisture. God, 134A is touchy on that one.
6. Was original cap tube soldered to the suction line to create a heat exchanger. Needed on many apps. Definately would cause flash back on start up.
7. Superheat a little low, should be 12 to 15 degrees.

Jan 31, 2010 | Hussmann Freezer Gelato Pan Rack (For 12...

1 Answer

HELP!!dyson vacuum only 2 years old model DC18 runs but has lost suction on the wand side of the vacuum does anyone have any suggestions for us??


its the ball cradle assembly. There is a little clip that changes the direction of the suction. that clip breaks all the time and causes the internal direction valve to stay in one position. unfortunately dyson doesnt sell these parts separate, you will have to purchase a new cradle assy. let me know if you need a part #

Jan 06, 2010 | Dyson Vacuums

1 Answer

Its not spining in the rinse cycle,and i replace the dogs in it


it wasn't that to begin with, sorry you did all that for nothing :(

I assume it works in wash cycle, so most likely it's the transmission shaft tube and brake assembly that needs repair/replacement.

If you know how to remove the cabinet, remove the pump and motor. (Just in case you don't, it's the two screws on the head to take out, flip the head back, then remove the clips holding the cabinet down. Pull forward and off, that's it)

Take the agitator out of the basket. Pop the top off, use socket and ext. to remove, pull agitator out

Lay the machine on it's back, remove the three bolts and slide the transmission out
Raise the machine back up, if you can get that 'nut' off the top of the tube assembly, there are tools for that but if you can do it without the trouble of obtaining that tool, you should be ok. Remove the tube assembly, and replace or just replace the brake assy. without removing the tube. Whichever is easier for you, that's the answer, best of my knowledge

Best of luck to you, let me know how it goes
Joe

Jul 30, 2009 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

No suction in floor attachment *& brush not turning


Lay the machine on the floor with the front side down. Undo the 3 large plastic screws with a coin of some sort, then remove bottom panel. On the back of carrage where the roller bar sits their should be a clear plastic tube check this tube is free of dirt. Check around inside the carrage for hair string etc. Check belt for breaks and swelling in the rubber pull ont roller bar and check the end caps on the roller can spin freely. If not pull off the end caps these will be very tight and wash out all dirt and fluff, dry thourley and lubricate centre pin and end caps inside the roller with baby oil or wd-40. replace roller bar and belt, turn roller bar twice slowly to centralise the belt, replace bottom panel making sure that the clips on front are sitting in their holes. fastern the plastic screws and leave two hours before usage

Oct 17, 2008 | Dyson DC07 Bagless Upright Cyclonic Vacuum

1 Answer

Suction loss on dyson animal


Hi.

Keep the axe on hold try this first.


Ok first thing to do is remove & clean the 2 piece premotor filter or purchase new.

Now remove soleplate from bottom of machine to do this rotate the 3 plastic screws to unlock position. Lift sole plate off now remove any blockagers or fluff that may be built up over the brush roller.
Remove hair from brush roll using scissors.

Check short clear hose for blockages & any damage rips or tares if it is damaged purchase new hose.

Now look at belts & rotate brush roller it should turn relatively easy if it is difficult to turn by hand remove the brush roller & pull off the end caps the axle will come out with one of the caps.
Check the roller bearings clean away dust build up replace end caps & axle spin roller holding on to end cap if freely to spin refit back on to machine.

If its stiff to rotate you will need new roller.

Now pull off the 2 inspection ports check them for bits of paper etc especialy the (U) shaped port at bottom rear of machine this can contain pens pencills stones all sorts of items that hinder the suction.

Now check the long flexi hose & metal wand for any obstructions.

If after all this machine is still not working correctly go to this site http://dysonmanuals.llc.nu/

On this site you will find Dyson service manuals covering poor suction, clutch,motor, etc.

Chris...

Sep 21, 2008 | Dyson DC07 Animal Bagless Upright Cyclonic...

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