Question about Whirlpool Calypso GVW9959K Top Load Washer
My calypso washing machine gets stuck on a number and does not finish washing unless I adjust the plate during mid cycle. It makes a cranking sound when the plate tilts. Is it possible that the plate needs to be tightened? The repair guy said nothing is wrong with it.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
We just experienced the same problem with the buttons! I just kept pushing all the buttons until it switched over-delicate cycle was actually the one that got it going-what a piece of work this machine is!
Posted on Dec 17, 2007
yes it is ,yes you can .You need a spin basket tub block and nut and a whirlpool tub wrench.You can get that at the appliance store when you buy the tub block .On the control panel locate the the two phillips screws at the back or front of the control panel at the bottom where the panel meets the base .Back them out far as you can .Pull the control panel forward and tilt it back(im assuming you've unplugged the washer first) you will see a connector that goes to the lid switch unplug it .Next you will see two gold clips (notice how they go) pop them out with a screw driver .Tilt the washer body back toward you standing at the front and walk backwards with it to remove it .Then unsnap the splash ring from the outer tub and remove it.Pull the rinse cup from the agitator under that you will see a cap remove it .Then you will need a 7/16 inch wrench with a long extension to remove the agitator bolt and pull the agitator.then you will see a spanner nut made of aluminum that's where the wrench comes in remove that nut and pull the spin tub under that will be the tub block tap it off the spin tube and slide the new one on .Replace the spin tub and nut using the spanner wrench tighten the nut tight as you can by hand then hit the wrench handle with a hammer to get it tighter.Then reverse the procedure to reassemble.When you replace the body of the washer look down through the lid opening the front of the washer body goes under the base and the sides go on top along the edges. print theese instructions its really not that hard that will fix it
Posted on Jan 27, 2008
I have the same washer. Over the past weeks I have had all sorts of error codes. In no particular order, I've had: CA, CI, ld, ob, and SL. Had a repair guy come out and put in a new pump. Didn't solve the problem. Had a more experienced guy come out from the same company. We basically tore the thing apart. We found an underwire from one of my wife's bras (she wondered where it went) along with a bunch of lint in the recirculation tube. You can see the outlet of the tube at the top back of the drum. We also found one of her small booty socks inside the tub blocking the drain tube. We fished everything out and it works great again. I have a two foot long cable grabber that we needed to get the sock out of the tub. You'd be amazed at where things can get trapped in these things. So, I spent $230 or so for a pump that I probably didn't need, but the new pump design is vastly superior to the old one so I'm not complaining too much. The company didn't charge me for the repeat visits, which was nice because the senior repair guy was at my house for about four hours at the end of his day. So the more experience guy and I brainstormed about why all the different error codes came on and this is what we came up with.
CA and CI -- These are current fault codes. Either the average draw or and instantaneous draw tripped a set maximum. These were likely caused by the pump trying too hard to pump thru the blockage in the drain line.
ld -- This stands for long drain. The pump must be able to drain the water form the tub within a certain time frame, if not, you will get this error code. Again, likely came from the sock blocking the drain tube. This may have also came on because the washer recirculates the water throught its cycle. With the recycle tube clogged by the underwire and lint, the only place for the water to go was out the drain. With that being clogged as well, the ld code comes on at the beginning of the cycle.
ob -- stands for out of balance. This one confused me a bit, because I was getting an out of balance signal with nothing in the washer. Apparently, with too much water in the tub and the thing sloshing around, an ob signal is very common with the drain clogged.
SL -- is for suds lock. You can get this one if you put too much soap in the thing. It can also come if you use conventional soap instead of high effencicy soap. I only got this one once. This message can also be caused by a faulty pump.
Hope this helps anyone with these problems. I wouldn't have wanted to tackle this one myself, but probably could do it now after helping with the repair last night. I know these machines have a bad reputation, and I wouldn't buy one of these again, but when its working, my wife and I think it does a good job washing our clothes.
Posted on Dec 11, 2008
There are 2 things you can do.
All washing machines have an off balance shut off, some are touchy, some let it run around the house. With wht machine empty, lean it towards you, on the 2 front feet, about 2 or 3 inches and let it drop. The self leveling feet in the rear must BOTH make good floor gontact and sometimes, just the weight of the machine will not adjust them. The other thing is, make sure the load is evenly distributed. Coats, blankets, small rugs etc. are very heavy when wet and they tend to throw all of the weight to one side.
There is no screw holding the yub in place. It hangs on the center post, where the agitator goes. There is however, what's called a snubber. It is a rubber device that looks like a flattened suction cup, that comes in contact with the tub. It helps keep the tub from jumping around too much.
Posted on Feb 02, 2009
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