CHANGED ALL THE ORIFICE'S AND CONVERTED THE REGULATOR..NEED TO DETERMINE THE MAX PSI FOR
THE INLET INPUT..MANUAL TALKS OF "WATER COLUMN PRESSURE" BUT CAN'T CONVERT THAT TO PSI FOR THE
INLET REGULATOR..ANY TIPS?
Cindy Wells (However, your stove and tank must be very different than mine. We didn't need to adjust the inlet input for the max PSI, just make sure that the incoming pressure was in the standard range for LP. New stove installed last month after old one suffered a failure of the oven valve.)
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Most ranges are easy to convert from propane to gas or vice versa. If there is a gas regulator installed on the back gas inlet, you could see if it is running 3-6" WC or 10-12" WC, The latter is for propane. If no regulator is present the orifice sizes will need to be checked. Propane has a higher caloric value than natural gas so the orifices are smaller. One way to see would be to install the oven. If the orifices are for propane and you are using natural gas there will be too little flame. I would estimate a conversion would cost no more than $250.00 to $300.00 depending on where you are. I would hire a professional to verify. I know it is expensive but the technician will be able to check your older oven (1985) for potentially dangerous gas leaks etc while he is there.
There should be a set of orifices for each burner as well as the oven and broiler. When the unit was converted to propane, these orifices should have been replaced and the ones for gas put in with the conversion kit installation information. The kit should have been reattached near the pressure regulator.
If the kit was missing the orifices, then, yes, you are missing pieces. Check with your coworker if the conversion kit was missing. If you have the kit, it can be easily done by any appliance installer (or repair person) licensed for handling NG. (At least on our range, the conversion kit installation was straight forward. Every orifice was clearly labeled with the labels different for each burner and for the gas/LP kits (ABCD (NG) vs MNOP (LP)) .) The regulator is the only part that switched for LP or NG without the kit.
As I recall, the only tools we needed for the top burners were a small wrench (10 mm) and a small flat blade screwdriver. Remove one orifice and put in the appropriate replacement. Then adjust the burners so that they didn't blow out when the oven was opened or quickly turned from high to low (for the simmer burner). The oven and broiler took a bit longer. Several screws had to be removed to get at the orifices. Then the air flow had to be adjusted for the incoming gas.
I hope this helps.
Cindy Wells (the conversion installation manual was on the counter during installation; I read it while it was open.)
The oven safety valve has to be cranked down for propane. Get a good fitting wrench and tighten this spud down and open the air shutter on the burner. This video shows how to tackle a crank down and flip type LP conversion whilst yours might be a bit more fancy it still must be adjusted like any other stove:
Hotpoint supplies the orifices and instructions with each range for converting. It is just that it is hidden, they attach it to the gas regulator. The regulator is near the bottom back typically. Here is a cut out from your use and care manual.
CONVERTING TO LP GAS (or converting back to natural gas from LP) This range leaves the factory set for use with natural gas. If you want to convert to LP gas, the conversion must be performed by a qualified LP gas installer. The conversion instructions and LP orifices can be found attached to the range next to the pressure regulator. Keep these instructions and the orifices in case you want to convert back to natural gas.
Yes you can, but whether you should is another matter. I purchased a new dryer and needed it to be propane ready...you need to get the proper orifice (which lets the gas in to the burners) changed out. Natural gas orifice has a larger hole than a propane orifice. In addition, the regulator must be modified. It may involve flipping an insert under the cap (typical of stoves) or it may require conversion parts packed in the conversion kit (order one specific to your drier). This regulator is part of the piping within the back of the drier.
Incidentally, conversion orifice(s) should be included with the drier and screwed to the body in a clip. When you change it over and label the equipment as converted to propane, put the old natural gas orifice in the clip and screw it back onto the body. Put the instructions in a paper envelope and tape to the outside of the body of the drier.
Yes, your gas range can be converted to propane. Your owners manual will give you step by step instructions. Since there are many different models, there are different procedures involved to convert to propane. On some models you must change the top burner orifices where other models have adjustable orifices. The oven burner has an adjustable orifice(same with broil burner if there is one). The range regulator must be adjusted to stay open all the time because your propane system has its own regulator.
you will need a propane conversion kit designed for that particular model heater.
which would most likely consist of a heavier spring for the gas valve and orifices for the burners depending on how many burners you have.
Most all gas heaters come thru the factory set up for natural gas and most have a kit available for conversion to LP (Propane) You will also need a manometer or a gas pressure tester to check the incoming and outgoing pressures from the green (2ndary )regulator outside your house to the gas valve inlet side,usually 11 to 14" WC( water column) pressure( static) 14" being MAX!!
Outlet pressure with burners running 10-11" WC approx. This info should come with the conversion kit if available. If you are not comfortable working with gas then find someone who is, for safety reasons.
Where do all orifices go on anything gas? Right there where the burner meets gas valve. The air shutter sits right in front of the orifice for proper air to gas ratio right.Go out and look at yer gas grill. Where the burners meet the gas valve ye shall find the orifice.
With the gas turned OFF, you will need to find the gas regulator on the range. It will located in the back of the oven along the bottom somewhere. It's usually a square shaped valve with a nut on top of it. The gas valve orifice is located under the nut. All you need to do is remove the nut, take the orifice out, flip the orifice over and re-install to convert from one type of gas to the other. It should be marked which side is LP (propane) and which side is for Natural Gas. LP will have a smaller orifice opening than Natural. You will want to make sure the orifice size you are using is facing UP, then screw the nut back on the regulator. You will also have to do this for all the surface burners (if you haven't done so already). You will know if you have the orifice turned the wrong way because the flames will be too high, the oven will get way too hot and there will be soot everywhere. Hope this helps you.