Question about Briggs & Stratton Power Products 5,550 Watt Portable Generator #30241

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Getting 3.6 vols from 110 outlet 6.9 from 220 v outlet changed cap at brush assembly not sure if correct size. no voltage going in or out brush wires.

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  • Briggs & Str... Master
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Either the AVR is bad or the field needs to be flashed.

Google "flashing field"

Posted on Jul 25, 2010

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The fan is not working after three weeks and its rhe second one


It might be the way your wiring it up if your pluging it in to an outlet make sure your white wire's are connected . First buy your self a voltage meter make sure you dont have to many amp's coming in that will burn out your motor.if u need more help send back info on how you plug it in and the volt's and amp's coming in thank's

Jan 08, 2013 | Heating & Cooling

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Oulets in home quick working


• One should inspect the Convenient Outlet first.

• Check the breakers on the Main Panel

• For electrical wirings check the Building Plan.



These should be done with a license electrician,

Supervise by an electrical engineer or master electrician.


and must conforms with National Building Code.

Aug 03, 2012 | Hammering

1 Answer

Dryer and electric cookstove


First make sure that the circuit breakers are compatible with the installed circuit breaker panel. If you have to force it or jerry rig it, replace with the correct one. Then make sure that you tightened down the terminals and that you are using the correct wire size - 6 awg for the 50 amp and 10 awg for the 30. Then verify that you connected the wire correctly to the new outlets you installed.
The voltage between the Hot lead at 7 o'clock and W 120-volt, Hot lead and G 120-volt, W and G 0-volt1_1_2012_4_17_30_pm.jpg
1_1_2012_4_19_44_pm.jpg

The voltage between Y and X should be 240-Volt, X and W 120-Volt, Y and W 120-Volt, X and G 120-volt, Y and G 120-volt, W and G 0-Volt

Hope this helps! Hal aka ImJustAvg

Jan 01, 2012 | Dryers

2 Answers

I have a 1999 3,8L ford mustang my tester indecates the alt is overcharging,but the batt light is coming on but it goes off! is there anything i can do to besides replace the alt?


Your alternator-mounted voltage regulator has failed. Luckily, your voltage regulator is
replaceable separately from the alternator (most voltage regulators are integral to the alternator,
and cannot be separately serviced).

Note: this works for 3.8L cobra alternators/voltage regulators only - in the 4.6L model, the
voltage regulator is an integral component of the alternator.

1999 Ford Mustang Cobra -3.8L engine

3.8L Engines

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove 4 Torx® head screws holding the voltage regulator to the alternator rear housing. Remove the regulator, with the brush and terminal holder attached.

Fig. 1. The regulator and brush/terminal holder are mounted on the backside of the alternator

archaeology_70.jpg


Fig. 2. The regulator and brush/terminal holder are secured by 4 Torx® head machine screws


archaeology_71.jpg

Fig. 3. Hold the regulator while removing the screws to prevent the regulator from dropping out and damaging the brushes

archaeology_72.jpg



3. Hold the regulator in one hand and pry off the cap covering the A terminal screw head with a small prybar.

4. Remove 2 Torx® head screws retaining the regulator to the brush holder. Separate the regulator from the brush holder.



Fig. 4. Slide the regulator out-the brushes will move out of the holder

archaeology_73.jpg


Fig. 5. The brush and terminal holder can be separated from the regulator once it is removed from the alternator

archaeology_74.jpg


=========================================================
To install:

1. Install the brush holder on the regulator with 2 retaining screws. Tighten the screws to 25-35 inch lbs. (2.8-4.0 Nm).

2. Install the cap on the head of the A terminal screw.

3. Depress the brushes into the holder and hold the brushes in position by inserting a standard size paper clip, or equivalent tool, through both the location hole in the regulator and through the holes in the brushes.

Fig. 6. When installing the regulator, press the brushes back into the housing

archaeology_75.jpg


Fig. 7. Use a thin piece of soft material, like this plastic wire tie, to hold the brushes in position while replacing the regulator, or use a paper clip inserted in the hole

archaeology_76.jpg



4. Install the regulator/brush holder assembly and remove the paper clip. Install the attaching screws and tighten to 20-30 inch lbs. (2.3-3.4 Nm).

5. Connect the negative battery cable.

Jul 07, 2011 | 1999 Ford Mustang Cobra

2 Answers

How can i convert our 220 volts wall outlet to 110 volts for a microwave oven.


Find the breaker for it (a double for 220) and substitue a single breaker (for 110). This will leave one wire unused from the breaker box to the outlet. You'll have to change the outlet of course to accommodate a normal 110 plug. You can also skip the breaker part and just change the outlet and cap off 1 of the hot wires. Just make sure to kill the power and be safe!

Mar 11, 2010 | GE JVM1650 1000 Watts Microwave Oven

1 Answer

I want to install my playstation 3 in my car but im not sure about the hookup


get a power inverter..it converts 12 volts dc (car voltage) into 110 volts ac (house outlet voltage). i would go with at least a 400watt. the playstation 3 consumes approximately 380 watts. also get an fm modulator to send the playsation's audio into the car radio via the fm tuner. unless the radio has aux inputs, if so connect the ps3 audio into that. there are plenty of video monitors out there that run on twelve volts too.

Mar 10, 2010 | Car Audio & Video

1 Answer

I have an old mastercraft 110 volt ac stick welder model 110-104 have not used it for years have lost the instruction manual plate on the machine says primary voltage is 115 and primary amperage is 26.6...


35 amp should do nicely however make sure the mains cable is of the correct size, better still, get a qualified Electricion to install it.
Usualy 30amp could be used but using 35amp gives you some reserve

Oct 03, 2009 | Miller Electric Mfg Co 903505 Invision...

1 Answer

I have a Bosch brute jackhammer, I need the tool to remove the screw plug and my hammmer motor runs but it dosen't hammer


You can use an adjustable face spanner wrench to remove that cap. I don't remember the pin size but you can measure the holes and get the appropriate size. You can remove the whole plate with the armature by undoing the 4 cap screws. Prior to removing the motor plate you have to remove the handle plate from the axle that goes through the body. Undo the nut that holds the assembly on and slide it off. You can now remove the Armature plate. After removing the cap screws pull the assembly out about 1-2 inches. You will see the wires that go to the field attached to the brush holders. Remove the screw that holds these wires to the brush holders. You can then safely remove the whole assembly. This also makes it easier to remove that cap plug with the spanner wrench, because you can now put the whole assembly in a vise. I always heat around the cap with a torch before doing anything. Then I tap on the plug with a hammer a couple of times and voila it turns alot easier. Corrosion almost always builds up on this cap because of the different metals. (Steel and Aluminum respectfully)

Your hammer may have a broken connecting rod. To inspect this make sure you ping the cylider and body with marks so you line them up the same way. Then remove the 4 cap bolts that hold the cylinder to the body. Remove the cylinder and inspect the hammer cylinder and rod. If the connecting rod is not broken you will have to inspect the gears and pinions to make sure they are ok.

Aug 31, 2009 | Bosch Hammering

1 Answer

I get no power 110 or 220v from my generac 5000


The best thing to do at this point is to flash the fields. You do this by applying battery voltage (12Vdc) or 6Vdc to the wire that come from the brushes. The brush closest to the bearing is Positive and the brush near the rotor winding is Negative. While the generator is running apply battery voltage to the correct spots on the brushes. You should see an increase in voltage. If you do see an increase, then you will need that little board with diodes, that is your voltage regulator. Use rubber gloves when performing this procedure and stay away from rotating parts.

Apr 12, 2009 | Electrical Supplies

1 Answer

No power to weld or use A/c power outlets


You don't say what model welder you have, some Miller welders have 3 slip rings and brushes some have just 2. In either case the next step is to use an ohm meter to check the resistance of the rotor and brush assembly. If this is a 2 slip ring model, take one of the wires off of one of the brushes then measure the resistance between the 2 brush terminals - it should be something between 10 and 100 ohms. If you get an open circuit measure the resistance from one slip ring to the other right at the slip rings - if you now get something other than an open you've got bad brushes (about $10 each to replace),

The 3 slip ring models are similar but have 2 rotor windings - take off the wire from the middle brush and measure from it to each of the ends.

If your rotor and brushes checked out OK you should next check the fuse in the exciter circuit, this will be on the block where the other end of the brush wires go.

If the fuse was good you need to do an excitation test. This is a bit dangerous so be careful. Look at the schematic pasted inside the case and figure out which brush is the positive (+) one. The wires are numbered and so is the schematic so this isn't as hard as it might seem.
Disconnect the wires from both brushes (all 4 wires in the 3 slip ring model) and tape them off so you won't get shocked. Get a 9V battery or make up jumpers that will let you connect the welder battery to the brushes. Start the welder and connect your temporary power supply, measure the AC at the outlets (it should be around 60VAC with a 9V battery) and the DC voltage at the weld terminals (should be above 10V), lastly measure the voltage at the wires you disconnected from the brushes (should be around 70V DC). Disconnect the temporary power supply and shut down the welder.
If you didn't get AC at the outlets and DC at the weld terminals above, something is wrong with the stator in your welder. If you didn't measure any DC on the wires that go to the brushes (most likely thing to happen), you've got something wrong in the exciter circuit. Check the rectifier, the capacitor, the exciter winding in the stator, and lastly the current control board. Older welders will also have the fine current control rheostat in this circuit (look for burned windings on it).

That's about all of the general advice I can give you without knowing more about which welder you have.

Carl

Oct 23, 2008 | Miller Welding Tools

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