The pump lid has water coming out of it. is that normal? pump was off but water was gushing out when I opened it to put chlorine tablet in filter

in form skimmers out to filter in to out of filter to returns

You need to get liquid chlorine and add about 2 liters and let your pool filter run for a couple of days and in the mean time clean your filter twice daily. If the pool at this stage is still a little green add more chlorine and broom the bottom to stir it up. After this as once your pool is back to almost normal, clean the the filter again and add clarifya. To keep your pool in good condion over summer buy 2 pool floaters, put 2 chlorine tablets in one and blue block pool sparkle in the other and each week add 1 liter of chlorine. Hope this helps you as i have the same pool and i do this and don't have any problems. You can also add salt to your pool if you like but dissolve it in water before you add it to the pool.

Thank you for posting your question here on Fixya.com.

Have you checked your water for acid levels to ensure you have enough to maintain your chlorine level? Adding stabilizer (cyanuric acid) helps the chlorine remain in the water longer and if you had to replace much of the water since your chlorine levels were OK you need to add more stabilizer to keep the chlorine in the pool. Have you altered the amount of time the pump runs too? An erosion feeder like yours only adds chlorine when the filter system is running. If you have scaled back the amount of time the equipments runs you will also be adding less chlorine over time than you previously had.

If this answer does not fix your problem, please comment with additional details prior to rating the answer. Positive feedback is appreciated once your problem is solved!

John

Well, normal is a relative term.... But not uncommon at all. In theory there should be no air getting into the system. In reality air sneaks in through a number of places, such as loose connections and fittings, old o-rings, and also when I cleaner comes out of the water, or water gets low and air sucks into skimmer, or if skimmer door sticks, etc., etc. As long as the pump is not running dry a little air hurt anything. If however you have a tab chlorinator, and air is trapped here this can be bad as chlorine gas is very corrosive. A lot of air trapped in the filter can be bad as this can create hydraulic pressure and cause undue stress on the filter. If the filter is working properly air should be forced through the filter and back into the pool. Open the air bleeder on the top of the filter occasionally after the pool has been running awhile and make sure there is not a lot of air trapped inside. Hope this answers your question. let me know if you need further assistance by commenting on the post, and don't hesitate to m give a positive rating if you found this helpful. Thanks, and Good Luck!

It definitely sounds like your pool filters not set up correctly. Here is a copy of the users manual. Try taking a look at the detailed drawing. It sounds like your valve might not be set up correctly so pay special attention to that area of your filter.

http://www.backyardcitypools.com/images/bwp/carefree-manual.pdf

It can be but probably isn't. A three inch tab is meant only to maintain your chlorine level. You must first bring the chlorine level up to specs, by adding either liquid or powdered chlorine, than add one or two tabs a week to hold it at that level.

I expect this is a tablet style chorinator, if so look to see if the chlorinator is using chlorine tablets. These chloriantors work off a run time clock tied to the well pump; when the well pump runs the timer within the chlorinator is energized, after a predetermined amount of "run time" the chlorinator drops a tablet. If you feel it is not operating properly I'd bring in a water well professional; remember we are speaking of the aquifer, too much chlorine in your water may affect your neigborhood.
I hope this may have helped,
Tom

salt does not solve your problem.
People do no realize that all the salt does for you is that it eliminates having to pour regular chlorine in.
Everything else stays the same as a normal pool with just plain ole h2o

The dilema is that intex filters are to small for the job that needs done especially in your case now that you have the dreaded green monster

your solution is to first get it cleared up
shock your pool with 2 gallons of liquid chlorine and then filter filter filter
You will need to brush the dead algea and vaccum once or twice a day for a couple of days and you must clean that cartridge 3-4 times a day with the garden hose
you will be surprised how much green it will trap

once pool starts to clear and the chlorine level starts to come back down from Mars you can start using your generator again.
you will need to find the amount of time thatorks for you but 3-4 hours will not cut it in the hot weeks

Chlorine consumption is due to #of bathers, heat ,sun, rain so any given day will dictate a different amount of generation needed keep it high so you do not get algea again about 3.0

you also got algea because you were not stiring up the pool enough you again need to filter filter filter every day
try to find some of my other postings with more specifics

A CL200 Involves direct injection of chlorine into the pool. Water passes through the chlorinator and goes to the pool with chlorinated. WIth the 200 (Not the 220) I've only seen a handful with problems over the years with chlorine not dissolving. If the chlorinator is not leaking, and the control valve is moving freely here's what I'd recommend.

1. Are you using a new type of tablet?
If so remove the tablets and place into a floating chlorinator.*** WARNING Wear Rubber Gloves, while handling wet tabs****
Dial it all the way open. If the tablets don't break down at this point with in a day or two, They were over compressed at the factory, potentially have to much filler (most slow tablets should be 95-99% cholroine) or the water is too cold ( below 70 deg. This should not be an issue in July) If this is the case switch brands.

If the chlorine is dissolving in the floater but not the chlorinator it could be one of the following.
1. Make sure the direction on the chlorinator is correct inlet (from Filter) to outlet (to pool)
2.. In some of the newer 200 chlorinators there is a built in check valve you can see it in the bottom of the chlorinator You will notice a threaded piece in the bottom that contains a white plastic ball the size of a pea. If this ball does not move freely to the touch, odds are the filler in your chlorine has clogged it from moving, thus preventing the flow of water from dissolving the chlorine.
You can check this by removing the chlorinator from the pool, removing the lid and pouring water directly into the top. If you do not see water passing through to the "Outlet" side of the chlorinator a clog is most likey your problem.
I've seen clogs cleared with wire coat hangers and hot water. Be forewarned that hot water being poured into a chlorinator will cause the any residual chlorine to gas off, make sure you do not have you face over the chlorinator when you add the hot water and you do so in a very well ventilated area. A straightened wire coat hanger can be used to dislodge any obstruction in the check valve and "get the ball rolling again"

Hope it helps.

Three possible solutions, and I have personally made use of all of them with great success.

1. A common reason why the flow of water through the Pentair 320 canister is insufficient to dissolve the chlorine tablets is that the pool filter is dirty or just too old with ingrained sediment. If your pump pressure is continuously running high then this usually indicates a dirty or old filter that is making it difficult for the pump to get an adequate flow of water through the chlorinator. If thoroughly cleaning it makes no difference, treat yourself to a new filter; it's often an immediate fix and the pump pressure drop may amaze you. Old filters that have served their time are deceiving. They may look clean but the fine sediment trapped in their fibers can seriously degrade performance downstream in the chlorinator.

2. Another trick to help SEE what is going on is to replace the short black feeder hose to the Pentair 320 canister with PVC tube, 5/8" outside diameter, 1/2" inside diameter, and a short piece of Pyrex tubing inserted into the middle of the PVC tube to serve as a clear sight glass. PVC tube is rated 100 psi and is readily available at just 50 cents a foot at local hardware stores. Pyrex tube with an outside diameter of 1/2 inch (13 mm) can be bought cut to length for about a dollar per inch from EBay sellers. I also strongly recommend swapping this new feed tube assembly to the UPPER inlet of the chlorinator and moving the plug from there down to the lower inlet. See the attached photo.
You will need an 8 inch and 3 inch length of PVC tube, and a 4 inch length of Pyrex tube. Insert the ends of the Pyrex tube 1/2 inch into each piece of PVC tube with some Goop glue smeared all around the outside of the Pyrex ends. Do not get any Goop inside the Pyrex tube, and do this as quickly as possible, rotating the Pyrex as you insert it into the PVC to ensure that the Goop forms a complete seal. Then let it set, preferably for 24 hours.
Now you have a new feed tube 14 inches long in total, 3 inches of which is the Pyrex sight glass. Just take the unions and spring off the original black hose and transfer them to the new PVC tube, putting the spring on the 8 inch piece of PVC tube. The 3 inch piece of PVC tube should be at the top of the feed where it enters the Pentair control valve.
You will now be able to observe the rate of flow of bubbles in the Pyrex tube (transparent PVC tube soon becomes opaque because of the chlorine but Pyrex remains clear) and know if water is proceeding up the tube and then cascading down over the chlorine tablets. Adjust the Pentair control valve to check if the bubbles speed up and slow down.

3. Lastly, when you open the Pentair 320 to insert new chlorine tablets, the water will normally drain down and out of the canister. IMPORTANT - When you restart the pool pump, keep the cap OFF the canister but have it ready. Assuming you have the Pentair control valve set above 0 (zero) flow, you should soon see water starting to flow through your new PVC feeder tube and then entering and rising up in the canister. When it gets past the top of the chlorine tablets screw the cap on until it feels firm but not cranked hard. If it leaks a little, tighten until that stops. Now you have got rid of that potential air trap that can prevent water rising to completely cover the tablets. Do this EVERY TIME you add new tablets to the canister.