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I recently purchased a Kenmore top loading washer. The model is 110-23022-101. When the water is going into the tub (no matter the cycle) I hear an extra sound as if a sprayer were acting independently of the regular flow. It concerns me that it could be an electrical problem. All the connections have been checked and rechecked and there is no evidence of a leak. Can you help me solve this mystery? becky Yarbrough

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  • Washing Mach... Master
  • 34,100 Answers

The softener dispenser has to be purged during the fill cycle to remove residue. The animal fat tends to harden.

Posted on Jul 19, 2017

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

SOURCE: whirlpool washer leak

most models have a screw on each side of the head assemly.. in front or rear.. new models have a clips under each side.. remove the screws or push up on clips.. flip the head back and you will see 2 clips holding the body on.. remove clips and whole body of washer will come off... will probaly be water pump linking.. have only had few with main tub seal leak

Posted on Sep 02, 2007

  • 156 Answers

SOURCE: leaking frigidaire top load washer

yes there a seal under the tub ring make sure tub ring has all the snaps in place

Posted on Mar 03, 2008

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: kenmore washer

No need to remove the back panel on this model. You can access everything by removing the washer cabinet. Here's how:

1. Unplug washing machine.

2. Remove console. This can be accomplished in one of two ways depending on which type of console you have.

a. If the console has removable end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the top from the back of the washer. The cap will pull off towards you as you are facing the unit from the front of the washer. There will be a screw under each end cap that you will need to remove.

b. If the console does not have removable end caps, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of each side and push in while lifting up. There is a retaining clip under each side that has to be released.

3. Once the console has been released it will lift up and fold back over the back of the washer in its resting position. Use care not to stress the small plastic hinges that hold it on. They can break easily.

4. Under the console will be two large brass colored clips. Take a large flat blade screwdriver and place it in the groove of the clip on the washer top. With the screwdriver firmly in the groove, push away from you towards the back of the washer. This will release the clips.

5. Disconnect the lid switch connector plug. This is the white colored plug on the washer top under the console.

NOTE: The washer will NOT operate with the lid switch connector unplugged. If you wish to attempt to test the washer for leaks with the casing removed, you will need to by-pass the lid switch. This can be accomplished by jumpering the two black wires together at the lid switch receptacle. CAUTION: DO NOT attempt to jumper the wires with the washer plugged in! Attach jumper, then plug the washer in.

6. Remove the washer casing. Open the lid of the washer. Using one hand, grip under the front rim of the washer opening. Do not grab the wash tub, just the casing. Tilt the washer case from the back first towards you, slide forward slightly, and then lift up. The entire case comes off exposing the wash tub and components.

Now, you stated your washer leaks during the rinse cycle. Double check all hose connections on the water pump (located directly in front under the wash tub). The pumps have also been known to start leaking along the seams. NOTE: If the pump leaks, it is NOT serviceable and must be replaced. They do not come apart.


To re-install washer case:

1. With the lid of the washer open, place grasp case under front rim and place it on the washer frame. While looking down through the washer lid opening, make sure the front lip of the case is placed UNDER the washer frame and rocked back onto the frame to ensure that the small cleats on the frame fit into the slotted grooves on the washer case base. If you do not get the case seated correctly it will rattle and vibrate while the washer is in operation.

2. Make the back of the washer fits into the washer casing on each side and reinsert the brass clips. Place the clip into the slot on the back of the washer first, and then forcefully push it into the opening on top of the washer. It will snap back into to place.

3. REINSTALL LID SWITCH CONNECTOR. It is easy to forget. If you do not reconnect it, the washer will not work correctly.

4. Reinstall console.

I know it seems like a lot, but it is an easy process if you take your time and follow the steps as written. Let me know if you need further assistance.

Posted on May 12, 2008

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: kenmore elite HE4T front load washing machine standing water

This problem can be caused by either a leaking water inlet valve, or a condition known as "siphoning". Since you just recently moved, I would make sure you don't have a siphoning problem, first. The following link explains how:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r587481-prevent_washer_siphoning

Although siphoning normally refers to a constant drain problem where a washer has problems maintaining the proper water level, it can also lead to problems where the drain line will back up into the washer.

Now, if you follow the advice in the link and determine this is NOT caused by siphoning, I would suspect that you have a water inlet valve that is leaking. A tell-tale sign will be water trickling down the fill tube in the rubber door bellow. The water inlet valves have a diaphragm that is controlled by an electric solenoid. Sometimes the valve becomes clogged with sediment or deposits, causing the diaphragm not to close properly. If you live in an area that has hard water, or use well water, you may have hard water deposits or rust build up in the valve. You may be able to correct the problem by removing the valve and cleaning it with some distilled vinegar. You can remove the valve by following these steps:

1. Unplug the washer and turn off water supply at the taps.
2. Disconnect the water inlet hoses.
3. Remove washer top panel by removing the three screws that hold the panel in place in the rear of the washer. With the screws removed, the panel slides back, then off.
4. The inlet valve (this is what your water inlet hoses connect to) will be located in the left rear of the washer (facing from the front). Remove the dispenser hose(s) from the valve and the electric connections. Remember how the electrical connections are removed. They should be color coded. One is for HOT, one is for COLD.
5. Remove the mounting screws that hold the assembly in place.

Once you have the inlet valve removed, you can place it in some distilled vinegar and let it soak. Just don't submerge the electrical connections. If this does not correct your problem, replace the valve. Searspartsdirect.com and repairclinic.com are two notable web sites that I have frequently used. Just type in your complete model number to begin the parts search.

I hope you find this information helpful. Let me know if you require additional assistance.

Posted on Sep 02, 2008

WRMtech
  • 70 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Washing Machine - no cold water coming in

most likely cuase would be the inlet valve
you would need the complete model number to make sure you get the right part for that unit.

Posted on Feb 24, 2009

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A washer that fills and doesn't do anything, or stops right after the wash cycle and then does not advance to the rinse cycle and drain is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction. The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch

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Take note of your symptoms:

1. Washer fills, may or may not agitate, will not advance to the rinse cycle, and will NOT drain - lid switch.

2. Washer fills, does NOT agitate or spin, but WILL drain - motor coupling.

If you still have questions, please let me know. If the suggestions I have listed do not match your washer symptoms, please post back and elaborate more on what the washer is/is not doing. That way I can provide you with better assistance. I hope this information is helpful to you.

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