Plenty of hot water but no heating Potterton Suprima 50
When the CH only is turned on, there is no heat in the radiators. When CH and HW are on,only the water heats, but it gets way too hot. The radiators are all individually turned on, the pump is on, and everything sounds as if it is running ok. Any suggestions?
Re: Plenty of hot water but no heating Potterton Suprima...
Most likely the radiators need to be bled, there will be a screw at the opposite side of the radiator to the inlet get a small dish and place it under the screw undo the screw a little untill the air escapes and water runs freely from it
if that does not work trace the lines back and see if there are any bleed valves on the lines these may need to be bled as well this can be time consuming
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The problem is not the water heater. The shower has a mixer or a limiter built into the plumbing so that the water wont get hot. It is a safety feature to prevent burns and protect children from scalding.
Could be the HW sensor, When you ask for HW, a switch ion the boiler will operate, usually part of what is know as 3 way valve. Different types of switch, you will have to have a look, could be a microswitch, in a unit to the side, you will be able to see if operating. But more likelly to be the 3 way valve itself, The internals do not switch fully, internal leaks etc. So inconsistent HW. Very easy to replace yourself, Turn off cold water, and isolate all the CH side, drain down the boiler, replace unit, reopen all valves, check pressure, off you go. You can get service kits for the 3 way valve unit, But for price diference, just replace, ebay a good place to to get one from
Does the red status led in the centre of the control board come on when hot water is drawn? You need to remove ONLY the front decorative cover to see the control board, two fixing screws at the base of it. If not the boiler won't fire when the CH is off. The trigger for this is a pressure switch, replacement of which is beyond DIY scope. FYV
It could be dyslexia, but I think you want to know what may be wrong with your boiler in this case! This is a VERY old design. The diaphragm is on the water section, this operates a switch to turn ON the pump, and a further device causes the diverter valve to divert boiler water from CH duty to HW duty. From your description it appears that the boiler is shutting down on internal boiler water temperature (too high), your 'briefly too hot' HW symptom may be caused either by the boiler side of the secondary heat exchanger being blocked/caked in sludge, OR the DHW side of it being scaled. Either way a new or replacement (descaled) secondary heat exchanger MAY inprove things. It's not easy on these old clunk-pots, and EVERY disturbed seal will subsequently leak, so get a good supply of o-rings and fibre seals before you start ("you" being the competant fitter you employ)
Combi boilers have many moving parts compared to conventional models so must be serviced annually to prevent breakdowns.
Your boiler most likely has one of four problems:-
1. When the receiver for the wireless thermostat was fitted, other wiring was loosened and has come adrift. It's a possibility, but in my experience unlikely as the wiring involved isn't anything to do with HW supply..
2. During receiver fitting the pcb suffered a static electricity surge. Possible, but unlikely as this sort of damage is usually immediately evident. However, boiler pcb's are notorious for sudden failures anyway and can happen anytime. Combi pcb's are more prone to fail as they usually have up to four solenoids fitted and these do eventually fail due to mechanical wear.
3. When you your combi is in CH mode it heats the primary water circuit and directs the flow through the CH heat exchanger. When you open a hot tap (US=faucet) you're opening a supply of cold water initially as there is no stored hot water like in a conventional system. As the water starts to flow through the combi's diverter valve there's a pressure drop which activates a rubber diaphragm with mechanical connections to other parts. The diaphragm is one part which is routinely replaced annually as it will eventually fatigue and fail with the symptoms which you describe. In addition, the mechanical parts connected to the diaphragm pass through various seals in order to activate at least one micro switch. If the seals fail then the moving parts eventually corrode and seize up. Regular servicing prevents this. Combi seizures are a very common complaint in hard water areas.
4. One of the micro switches activated by the diverter valve has failed. Possible, but not likely. The purpose of the switches is usually to fire up the boiler to provide HW when the CH is not currently running, but as you haven't said which Vaillant you have I can't be definitive on this.
One major problem with combi boilers is that multiple failures can and certainly do occur almost at once. Unmaintained units may appear to be correctly functioning but in reality a number of worn parts can be close to failing. When one part fails, the others can't cope with the stress and fail as well.
In most civilised countries including the UK it's a criminal offence to attempt most repairs yourself unless you're qualified to work on gas appliances, so you need to find a decent heating engineer to service your boiler (ask your new neighbours). In the UK you can expect to pay around £120-£150 annually for a routine boiler service. If the circuit board has failed then it can easily add over £100. If parts inside the diverter valve/manifold have seized then you can be looking at an additional £80-£150. Note that diaphragm failures on their own do not merit diverter/manifold replacement and that if you have a new diverter fitted then a new diaphragm will already be present inside.
Dishonest heating engineers always diagnose a failed pcb as they know that you have no way of knowing whether it's true. If you can live with the problem for a few days then failed pcb's are usually a straightforward repair and there are plenty of companies who will send you a guaranteed exchange unit for much less than the cost of a new one. As long as you are not opening the main boiler casing which houses the combustion chamber and gas valve assemblies then some territories allow non gas qualified replacement, but others insist that the work is done by a qualified electrician: this is not the case in the UK as long as the pcb is not connected directly to mains electricity (no modern domestic ones are).
clicking rads are due to pipe expansion when getting hot. If the hot water [secondary circuit] gets hot and the boiler stays on [does not keep going on and off] even with a constant low water flow then the diverter should be ok. there is a valve to prevent the primary circuit [central heating] [ CH] from sending water to the rads. this or its control may be at fault. both the Both the CH pipes to & from the boiler should have manual valves to turn off. do this then try the hot tap-full on. If the boiler goes into overheat mode and the overheat stat kicks in to turn the boiler off -- then :- Check also the heat exchanger, it may be furred up especially if you are in a hard water area. It means taking it off and manually checking [pour water through] If you're lucky it will be just muck to be forced out with hose pipe pressure, if not a new one