Question about Mantis 4-Cycle Tiller
Starts fine , idles fine and will walk across the yard to the garden ok, but when I start to till it will rev up and then it will bog down while the tines are in the dirt and die if I don,t let up on the throttle. Takes a few pulls to get it to restart but will bog down and die once the tines are working in the dirt. It's a 4 cycle Mantis on premium gas, proper oil level. Two years old and used about ten times. Fuel line have been cleaned and bulb has fuel in it. Fuel tank clean.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Your quickest fix for this problem is to simply replace the carburetor, a Zama K54A. Do it all the time. After that, if you can find a 2 cycle oil, Opti-2, it's the best you can use and it's a one mix for all your 2 cycle equipment (blowers, trimmers, chainsaws, etc.) It's the only 2 cycle I sell in my shop.
Posted on May 13, 2009
SOURCE: Won't stay running...
I had the same problem with my mantis. It would start fine after a few pulls, but had no power. I changed the plug, replaced the carb completely...nothing helped. Took it to a shop and paid $70 for a tune up that didn't help at all, and the shop owner just said "sorry".
After everything else was done, I pulled the cover off the muffler, (3 screws) then removed 3 screws over a small spark arrestor screen and found it was clogged...cleaned it and guess what...IT WORKS FINE NOW!
The best and easiest fix I have ever done to a small engine. I felt like an idiot, because the exhaust side of the motor MUST be clear to work properly on small engines. The only reason I was removing the muffler in the first place was to check the compression and VOILA!!!
An easy and quick fix I recommend for all Mantis tillers before you waste money on carb issues (which is what the company will tell you to fix to solve this problem).
Posted on Jun 03, 2009
Your problem is a common one on Mantis tillers. The engine sounds like it is not breathing properly. I have fixed dozens of these problems and it is almost always the spark arrestor clogged up. The spark arrestor is found inside a small housing on the muffler (easy to fix). There are 3 screws that need to be removed to get the muffler cover off, then you will see a small housing a little over an inch long with another 3 screws...remove them and you will see a small screen that is probably clogged. Clean it and the housing with a solvent (I usually use carb cleaner) then re-install the arrestor and reassemble the muffler cover. This will fix your problem about 80% of the time.
If that is not the problem you may need to fix the carburetor (take my advice and just buy a new one...not much more expensive than the repair kit and a lot simpler.
Posted on Jun 14, 2009
I had this problem today. Loosen the flange bolt. Pull the engine off and check that the hex end of the shaft is lining up with the clutch pad in the engine-that it seats properly. Then make sure the shaft is seated all the way into the worm gear and put the engine back on. You will probably have to wiggle the shaft until it seats into the clutch. Tighten the flange bolt when the engine is seated flush with the worm housing (with no gap). That's all I did and the power is back up. Hopefully you still have your manual with the parts blow-up. (page 29?) BTW, have you checked that the wormgear is greased?
Posted on Aug 04, 2009
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