Question about GE Dryers
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
If the squeaking has been going on for only a short time, you may be able to get by with only replacing the rear drum bearing, but if it has been going on for some time you should replace the drum bearing kit part #
WE25M40. Also be sure to check that the front drum slides are ok, especially the one on the left side of the front drum support, as this one wears out faster. Drum slides #
WE1M333 and if front support frame is worn so that there is nothing left to hook the slides into you would need a
Posted on Sep 17, 2008
Check the following areas thoroughly to address this issue.
Make sure the dryer vent hose, as well as the rest of the vent duct, is not clogged.
Unless regular maintenance is performed, chances are there is a lot of lint accumulated inside the dryer. This might affect the drying time and could be a fire hazard. Make sure to have your dryer cleaned regularly. Because this might involve taking most of the dryer apart, it is recommended to have a qualified appliance repairman perform this task.
There are a couple of cycling thermostats inside the dryer. If one of them breaks down, it might affect the dryer's performance. Replace the defective thermostat.
3. Heating element
A heating element might only be partially burned out, in which case it would still work but will take longer time to dry the clothes. Replace the element if found defective.
Concerning the squeaking sounds. this can be caused by a bad drum belt or a leveling issue as well. more issues will be bad drum support rollers or, a failing bearing assembly in the idler pulley. the blower, baffles and guides will deteriorate as well, causing noise overtime. These are most of the uncommon issue that will cause this issue, but the most common issue will be failed idler pulley bearings. The pulley will tend to squeak very loudly if the bearings are worn.
Access to the idler pulley varies by model, if your dryer has a lower front panel (kick plate) start there. It should lift up and off or it may be held in place with a few screws or snaps; it may also have a catch at the edges or center gap between the kick panel and main panel. To release the catch, push a putty knife, wrapped with masking tape, into the gap and push back the catch. The next easiest access point is the rear panel. The rear access panel is held in place with several screws along the outer edges. The last resort method of access is the removal of the entire front panel. The front panel supports the front of the drum and so removal is more difficult. Front panel removal varies. In general, access is gained by lifting the top (remove the lint trap screws first), removing the screws that secure the front panel, and detaching the panel from the drum.
When reaching into the dryer be careful of sharp edges on the cabinet and interior supports. Reach in to the belt and give it tug. It should be taught and have only a little give. The belt should go under the idler pulley and over the motor pulley. Lift the idler pulley toward the motor to relieve tension on the belt and remove it from the motor pulley.
Turn the idler pulley wheel, it should turn smoothly, quietly and without any wobble. Inspect it for cracks or uneven wear. If the idler pulley does not maintain proper tension or is damaged it should be replaced. Depending upon your model, the entire assembly or just the wheel or bearing may be replaced.
Posted on Jul 30, 2009
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