Intake valve make a vibrating noise after a few minutes
OK, I'll try and explain. Things were going great the pump was running and was nice and quiet, then, after a filter change the intake valve started to make a vibrating , losing air kind of noise. Now mind you I have done everything I can think of. I have swapped the intake and out valves and then I even swapped the hoses. I've take apart and have put back together a lot. Here is what happens, when we change the filter and turn the pump back on it will run great like it has been the past year and up until now, then within a few minutes there seems to be a **** in the hose and the water jet reduces flow and the humming starts. Afterwards the intake hose does a lot of moving around. Help!!! Thanks, Steve
Re: Intake valve make a vibrating noise after a few...
From what you are explaining it sounds like the pump is taking on air, which I have seen when the water level is just a tad low & the pump creates a "vortex" at the skimmer box & air is sucked in. Double check the "flap" at the skimmer to make sure it is working properly (not stuck upright)
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If the vehicle has had proper oil changes,the noisy valve lifters may the oil filter.If the anti-drainback valve is defective and the filter is at an angle,it may take a few extra seconds to refill before can supply the engine with normal oil pressure.
Also,at the last oil change,has the proper oil viscosity been used?
The noise at the dash is usually a hose.Have someone move the hoses a little while you sit inside and listen for changes in that noise at 2000 to 3000 rpm.As it becomes quiet,adjust the hose or whatever that new position.
The black cylinder is the compressor. It sounds like your unit is cycling the compressor for some reason. If the compressor starts, runs fine, and removes water when you set the humidity control to the driest setting the compressor is probably OK and the problem may be with the humidity control causing the dehumidifier to "short cycle" for some reason. You may need to change the humidity control or relocate the dehumidifier in your crawl space. If the compressor attempts to start, and then sits quiet for 10 minutes, and then attempts to start again, you have a problem with the dehumidifier. There are a few things that can cause this problem: Low refrigerant charge Bad compressor capacitor Bad compressor overload Plugged capillary tube or broken expansion valve are the common causes of this behavior. If you suspect one of these problems, call the factory service department at 1-800-533-7533 for help.
Two questions: 1) Are there filters that need to be cleaned on a routine basis with the FDB635RF? and 2) What causes the scum left behind on glasses and utensils? I use a rinse aid, but doesn't seem to be helping. This is a recent problem.
do this. Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.
The one thing you did not mention was the type of spark your recieving at the spark plug. I recommend that a spark tester be used, which can be purchased at an auto parts store. Set the spark plug tester gap for 10,000 volts, or a good 3/8". You should see a nice sharp blue spark. If you are recieving this kind of spark, then with valves closed or at top dead center apply 30 psi into the cylinder. This test will let you know if the valves are seated properly. If valves are not seated properly you will hear the air come out from the intake or exhaust. So, it is either your ingnition coils or warped valves.
your model is pretty new. just so you know your warrenty is 1 year parts and labor. 2 years on parts. it should not cost that much money.
there are two components that start before the circulation pump.(wash noise you hear)
first sounds you hear will be the drain pump. usually rattling noises if something is in it but it can make a hum noise if something is jamming the drain propeller up. which is accessible with a T20 torx driver. take the filters out and the mesh filter. and unscrew the screw in the base towards the left. pull out whatever is lodged.
the other humming sound can come from the next component that activates is the watervalve. make sure you dont have a kinked water intake line. otherwise its a bad valve. i have had to change a few of those water valves out already but not for a hum noise on your model. you have a new style water valve. when brands make new parts we get problems fast sometimes..
Sounds like fuel starvation. Would suggest cleaning any filters in the fuel line or replacing. Also check the stop idle valve. This should be inline in the air intake pipe to the intake manifold.. Remove it and clean with WD40.Make sure you note the orientation of the spring. To reset the ECU disconnect the battery for 5 minute the reconnect. The ECU should reset to factory settings. Make sure you know radio and alarm codes! Try petrol additive STP or Redex to clean inside the engine. Thats as far as my knowledge goes, hope it helps.
I had the same problem with my 94 chevy 6.5 diesel,and spent alot of money trying things that people told me to try.I wound up taking it to the dealer and they told me it was the injection pump.They put one in it and that fixed it.It has run great for over a year and a half.This set me back about $4000.00!