I have taken my Kirby G4 apart to the point I had the top shell and transmission removed from the case. I was trying to remove the on/off
switch as it is defective. I saw one screw near all the electrical connections and removed it as well but the switch is still in place. What else needs to be removed to get at the power switch.
thanks in advance, Dave
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Re: how to remove power switch
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No bearing inside only brass pivot, zip brush turbines get jammed because of hair getting trapped between the two blades, simply remove top holding plastic cap, it come into 4 pieces. lay out in order cut hair off spline and re assemble
The cord simply unplugs from the cleaner, but you first have to remove the cover that holds the plug into the lower motor shell. There should be one screw holding the cover in place. Remove the screw and then push against the rear of the cover to unlatch it. You will also need to remove the trim piece around the switch. Remove the center screw in the rear, and the screw on top holding the fitting on the cord. Insert a small flat screwdriver into the small rectangular opening in the trim piece and pry up to pop it off. Reverse the proceedure to attach the new cord.
This repair requires extensive disassembly. First remove the handle, bag assembly, and switch "scuff" plate. To remove the switch plate, remove the screw at the bottom, and the upper screw that secures the cord. Insert a screwdriver into the rectangular slot in the plastic and pop it off. The cord must also be removed. One screw holds the cord cover to the lower motor shell. Remove the screw and push with a flat screwdriver on the back of the cover to unlatch it. Next remove the upper motor shell ( 4 screws ). The next piece to come off is the switch button. Pry upward on it's attaching lugs to free it, pull it upward far enough to disconnect it from the switch rod. The power drive assembly is next to go. Three screws on the bottom of the motor unit hold it in. DO NOT remove the center screw beneath the shift lever. The drive pedal must be in DRIVE for removal. The transmission drops down to get it out ( you may have to wiggle and pull on it to free it). Next the headlight frame assembly must be removed. You will see 2 screws at the rear, and 2 long screws in front which also secure the fan housing. After removing the screws, the headlight frame can be removed. Be careful to note the proper location of all wires! The right carbon brush assembly must be removed to allow the switch to slide back for removal. It is held in place by 1 screw and a tab on it's holder. Two screws hold the switch itself in place. One is on a tab on top of the switch, and the other is on the right bottom of the lower motor shell. The lower screw also serves as a motor mount screw. The switch can now be removed by inserting a small screwdriver along it's front edge and prying it backwards. It is wise to clear dust and lint from the motor contacts prior to re-assembly. Be sure the terminals on the field coil have not gotten bent before putting the new switch in place. Snap the new switch in place and replace the screws. It is easiest to replace the wires in this order:
1- Holding the headlight assembly off to the right, install the lower headlight wire.
2- Next connect the wire from the left carbon brush to the upper switch terminal.
3- Connect the upper headlight wire.
4- Gently replace the right carbon brush assembly, secure it with it's screw ( do not overtighten ) , and connect it's wire to the lower switch terminal.
After the switch is in, install the headlight frame screws, transmission and belt, and switch button in reverse order. Be sure the shift arm on the left side of the drive unit engages the slot or pin on the handle pivot assembly. The cover and trim pieces can now be re-installed.
The handle pivot is set too far back on it's slide. It will be necessary to remove the handle, switch plate, and upper motor shell to access the slide. Two large phillips screws hold the pivot assembly to the slide. The pivot must be loosened and moved ahead very slightly, while centering the slide in place.
The power drive has a geared belt on the end on the armature which operates the power drive. The power drive has been out since 1990, and I have yet to see a bad drive belt in 1000's of repairs. The drive unit itself will fail very infrequently, and need replacement. The belt can be accessed be removing the handle, switch plate, and upper motor shell. The power drive unit must be loosened and dropped down to remove the belt.
before you do all this, check the cord where it mounts to the handle up top by the pivoting strain relief. Frequently the cord goes bad right where it snaps in the strain relief.
first you will need to remove the handle, bag, and the cord. there is a release button for the handle, the mini emptor on the bottom of the bag twists off away from the body. there should be 2 screws on the scuff plate, one to hold the cord strain relief and another down by the transmission for the scuff plate. use a small flathead screw driver in the slot of the scuff plate and pry up. it will pop off. you should also take out the screw in the cord cover where it plugs, pop the cover off and remove the cord. now you can remove the top cover. there will be 2 screws in the front of the unit, and 2 screws under the scuff plate. they are either phillips or T15,T20 torx. remove those 4 screws and you can lift the top cover off and access the motor and the switch. check for bad motor carbon brushes and a worn commotator where the brushes ride. let me know if you need anything else.