Whirlpool WTW5300VW2 washer hot water pipes shake during fill
I have a new Whirlpool WTW5300VW2 washer. When set to "warm" the hot water pipe pulses and shakes during filling. We have a tankless water heater and it goes crazy turning on and off. Is the intake valve bad or is it a phenomenon with tankless water systems interacting with the temperature sensor on the washer unit? Have not tried "hot" setting. Thanks much...
An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 500 times.
Re: Whirlpool WTW5300VW2 washer hot water pipes shake...
Good day, The only test on the water valve itself, is to replace it. The term is "replace with a know good part", but may or may not work. It is very possible you mght need a plumber to install a riser on the hot water line somewhere betwen the tank and the line going into the washer. The riser creates an air cushion in the line that is used on many issues much as you described. It could well be best to call a few quality plumbing companies, to see if they have dealt with that issue.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
If you switched the feed hoses over and the problem reversed itself, cold has gone from fast to slow useing the hot water pipe and hot from slow to fast useing the cold water pipe then this would indicate a fault in the water supply from the hot pipe. What sort of pressure is coming from the hot pipe when not connected to the machine but filling in to a bucket? Are there any shut off valves before the pipe that supplies the hot water? Are they fully turned on? Any kinks in the feed pipe for the hot water? Has the hot water feed pipe collapsed internally? Change the pipe to check this and not just at the machine side.
i've found problems with the temp. switch on this washer part number W10184148 and it's around 40 dollars,also on the rinse cycle the washer only uses cold water.what happens when you use just the hot?i had a lady that her water would start to fill and then the water would stop and the pipes in the house would start making a banging sound.if you order the part from http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Switch/W10184148/1468990 repair clinic and if this isn't your problem which i think it is from how you discribe it you can send the part back and get your money back for up to a year.good luck with your washer and next time you buy something and it doesn't work right get right on it
it sounds to me that the hoses are connected to the machine incorrectly. Typically if the plumber ran the water lines behind washer correctly the hot pipe is on the left and the cold pipe is on the right sometimes thats backward and be determined by touching hoses while filling on warm setting and see which hose feels hot. On the back of washer they where they connect hot goes on the bottom and cold on top
Are you sure you have the hot pipe on the hot inlet and the cold on the cold inlet ie red to red black to black (easily done), please check carefully. if OK then I think you have picked up some dirt in the inlet filter and this will need to be removed and cleaned,remove lid and follow pipes inside to plastic tank at top near drawer, filter housing can be seen there.
There is too much pressure on the cold feed, reduce the pressure on the cold by partly closing off the tap on the cold.
Or ensure the hot feed is fully open and not blocked, check if there are filters inline - remove the feed pipes at the washer end and look into the inlet valves - clear if blocked.
The inlet valve is common to hot and cold water with only a small pipe to fill the machine, the cold water is being forced back up the hot water pipe due to the pressure you can feel the pipe cool down after running hot then go to warm, if hot water is flowing the pipe will stay hot, if not then cold is going up the hot pipe.
The water fill valve - The water fill valve is a mechanical and electrical part, the coils on the valve need electricity to mechanically open the valve to allow the water to flow into the washer....myth....the washer pumps water into itself...no, it does not. The fill valve opens and the house water pressure pushes the water into the washing machine. No cold water or no hot water - The fill valve has two coils, one for the hot water and one for the cold water. It is possible that one of the coils can fail and you loose that filling ability. If the cold water coil quits, the hot will still work and during warm fill you will get hot water only and during a cold fill you will get no water at all. If the hot coils quits, you will still have cold water fill, cold water only on a warm setting and no water on a hot fill setting. You can No cold water or no hot water - The fill valve has two coils, one for the hot water and one for the cold water. It is possible that one of the coils can fail and you loose that filling ability. If the cold water coil quits, the hot will still work and during warm fill you will get hot water only and during a cold fill you will get no water at all. If the hot coils quits, you will still have cold water fill, cold water only on a warm setting and no water on a hot fill setting. You can test a fill valve live for 120 volts, power to a fill valve coil and no fill = a bad fill valve. You can also test the coils for continuity, no continuity = a bad fill valve. Some Maytag washers have a fuse in the fill valve circuit, if this fuse let go the washer will not fill. Fill valves can also from time to time stick open and not stop filling. If you have to shut off the fill valves to stop the water from filling in the washer, you have a bad fill valve and you will have to replace it.
What a great energy saver response....run water through another tap in the house in order to fill the pipes with hot water! I have the same problem; cannot even get WARM water in my tub. I have 2 solutions: #1, on my incoming water pipes are regular faucet handles which I am going to attach a hose on the hot side that will reach into the washer and manually mix the temperature. #2, purchase an old refurb washer at a used appliance store that HAS a hot-water setting and hope they will take the "wonderful, new energy saver" as a trade. There are just some times you really need HOT water. I can't imagine washing diapers in cold, although I haven't had to do that in many years. Energy saving factory settings: capital "B", capital "S"!!!
If the washer doesn't fill properly, or if only one temperature of water fills the tub, something is probably keeping water from entering the machine or it's draining before the tub fills completely.
Set the controls to the first wash cycle, and then try each water temperature setting.
If both hot and cold water seem to be entering the washer with good pressure, water may be draining out prematurely during the fill cycle, through siphoning action. Be sure the drain hose's connection to the standpipe is at least 34 inches above the floor (otherwise, discuss the problem with a plumber). An air gap between drain hose and stand pipe that prevents backflow is also good to have.
If hot works but cold doesn't, or vice versa:
1) Be sure both the hot and cold water faucets are turned on.
2) Be sure the supply hoses are not kinked.
3) Turn off the faucets. Unscrew the hoses from the faucets and drain them into a bucket. Hold the bucket under the faucets and test them to make sure they both work and have plenty of pressure (see HERE for information on replacing faucets). Screw the hoses back onto the faucets.
4) Unscrew the hoses from the inlet valves and clean the filter screens just inside them; these may be clogged. To do this, pry out the screens with a screwdriver (this can be difficult; the screens may be inside the valves), flush them under running water, then put them back into the hose. If the screens look defective, replace them. Then screw the hoses back onto the valves. Be careful not to cross-thread the hose threads when screwing them back onto the valves.
5) Call an appliance repairperson; there may be a defective inlet valve or a problem with the controls.