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My Maytag side by side MSD2758DRW ice maker no longer makes ice. The arm was having trouble "pushing" the cubes out awhile back, so I disconnected the icemaker power coupling. I tried plugging it back in to do some troubleshooting, and the arm just keeps going around and around (no water or ice are in the tray). No water comes to fill the tray. The water dispenser in the door works fine. I previously had problems with the fill tube in the past, so that was the first thing I tried. I checked the fill tube to make sure it was not frozen, and even ran the blow dryer to melt anything that might have been frozen in the fill tube. In addition, it seemed that the push arm was having trouble pushing the ice out, so when I used the blow dryer on the fill tube, it also seems to have warmed up the ice tray enough so that it was able to cycle once more. However, this was months ago, and I never got it to fill again. To review: -Ice maker is not making ice. -No water is going into ice maker. -Fill tube is not clogged, I already used a blow dryer. -If ice maker is plugged in, the roatating arm of the ice MAKER (not dispenser) keeps rotating. For lack of a better term, let's call it the rotating "ice pusher" that dispenses the ice into the bin. I'm leaning towards just buying another icemaker and installing it, but wondering if the issue is with the thermostat or another part.

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Its a ice-maker problem.The rotating arm should stop.But still there is no ice been made this indicates that the problem is in the Thermostat as its not sensing the water temperature and the procedure is not starting at all.get the thermostat checked.If the thermostat is fine then its ice maker problem.
To test the thermostat:--
The thermostat is located near the bottom of the support box. The thermostat is connected by two or three wires. Label the wire placement before disconnecting them. Remove the thermostat by loosening the clamp, by pushing back the retainer clips, or by removing the retaining screws.
Test the thermostat for continuity using a multimeter set to the ohms setting X1. Start by testing the thermostat when it has come up to room temperature (about 20 minutes after removing it from the freezer).
If the thermostat has two wires touch one probe to each wire. You should get a reading of infinity. Chill the thermostat in the freezer for about twenty minutes and retest. This time you should get a reading of zero (continuity).
If the thermostat has three wires, number them 1, 2 and 3. Test combinations 1 & 2, 1 & 3 and 2 & 3 and write down the results. Two of the combinations should yield a reading of infinity and one should yield a reading of zero. Now chill the thermostat in the freezer for about twenty minutes and retest. The combination that had a zero reading before, should now have a reading of infinity. One of the two other combinations should now yield a zero reading.
If the thermostat fails this test, it should be replaced.
Here's how ice makers work:
First, the ice maker signals the water-fill valve to open and flow into the ice maker tray the amount of water specified by the internal motor and switch.
When the water tray thermostat senses that the tray has reached a certain temperature, it signals the ice maker to begin ejecting the cubes.
The ice maker turns on the ice cube tray heater, which warms the tray enough for the ice cubes to move freel
Then the sweep fork rotates and pushes the cubes up and out of the tray. Or, if the ice maker has a push bar instead, it pushes the cubes up and out of the tray.
While the ice maker is dumping the cubes into the holding bin, the metal wire swings up to let the cubes drop down.
When the cubes have dropped, the wire goes back down, unless the holding bin is full. If the bin is full, the wire can't go all the way back down, which turns off the ice maker until there's room in the bin for more ice.
When the wire goes all the way back down, the ice maker refills with water and repeats the process.
Thanks. Keep updated for any more query. You can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

Posted on Jul 13, 2010

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