Question about Roper RAS8445KQ Top Load Washer

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My washer stops during the rinse cycle right before starting the SPIN cycle. What could be causing this problem?

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The most common cause of the problem you just described is a lid switch malfunction or lid strike (actuator) problem. Symptoms may include, filling and stopping on the intial fill cycle, stopping right after the wash cycle, not advancing to rinse or spin cycles, and a wash tub that will not drain.

The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike" or "Actuator") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3557193-replacing_a_lid_switch

On some models, the lid switch is located under the top casing by one of the lid hinges. You will know if you if you have this type of switch, because it does NOT have a lid strike (actuator) and the small hole on the right hand side of the wash tub will not be present. This type of switch is actuated (toggled) by a rod on the lid hinge. With this type of switch, if you locate it and it can be toggled by hand, you may only need to adjust the actuator rod by bending it slightly.

NOTE: You do not have to drain or bail the water from the washer tub to perform this repair. Once a defective lid switch is replaced, the washer should drain normally.


Replacement parts (if required) can be purchased at any of the following web sites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

If the model number is correct, the part number for a replacement switch is 3949247. The lid strike (actuator) part number is 358684.

The average price of a replacement lid switch for this model washer is about $20 - $30 if you perform the repair yourself. The lid strike usually costs less than $5. Prices will vary between sites so shop and compare. If you have questions, or need additional assistance, please post back and let me know. This is a very simple repair that you can easily perform without the assistance of a repairman.

If this advice does not help you enough, repairclinic.com has a Repair Manual you can order to assist you with all your repairs. The part number is 1170635 and is priced at about $20.

Searspartsdirect.com also has a repair manual for about the same price. Part number 4314044L. I hope this information is helpful to you.

Posted on Jul 12, 2010

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 306 Answers

SOURCE: Washer stops during rinse cycle and isn't easily restartable....

Sounds like the contacts in the timer has a problem. Unplug washer. Remove the back of the washer and spray WD40 in the timer. Put towels around and under to to collect excess runoff.
Rrotate washer dial 25 times and spray some more wd40. Rotate 25 times again. Do a wash load. If it works put everting back together.

Posted on May 07, 2009

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: What causes the HE3t washer to stop in spin and rinse cycle?

Sometimes the unplugging helps, or hitting "Cancel" several times.  Guaranteed to work though is to remove top, reach down the top to the door lock.  (Tight squeeze and need to be a little tall to reach) Once your hand is down there, on bottom of lock mechanism is a small handle that must be pulled straight down and manually unlock the door.  This can also be accomplished by removing lower front panel and reaching up to do the same.   BTW, while in the top, make sure all the electrical connections are tight.  I found some loose before, probably from the spinning action.

Posted on Jan 04, 2009

  • 6 Answers

SOURCE: Water level issues on the Whirlpool washer.

It's overfilling If your washer is overfilling, check these:

Water-inlet valve
Water-level switch
Water-inlet valve A defect in the water-inlet valve may mean that it's no longer able to shut off completely when the electricity has been turned off to it. If this occurs, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub. In time, the water may accumulate substantially. If this happens, you need to replace the valve.

Water-level switch A defect--or an obstruction--in the water-level switch may mean that it can't tell the water to shut off. So the machine overflows. This switch senses the water level in the clothes tub. It's usually a diaphragm device with a small, clear tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. As the water level in the tub increases, the pressure on the air in the tube increases. When the pressure reaches a certain level, it activates the switch, shuts off the water, and signals the timer to begin the agitate cycle. You can either clear any obstruction in the tube or replace the water-level switch.

It's underfilling The water-level switch regulates your washer's fill volume. This switch is usually a diaphragm device with a small, clear tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. As the water level in the tub increases, the pressure on the air in the tube increases. When the pressure reaches a certain level, it activates the switch, shuts off the water, and signals the timer to begin the agitate cycle. If the switch is defective, it may prematurely signal the water to shut off. If so, you probably need to replace the water-level switch.

The water temperature is incorrect The temperature of the incoming water determines the temperature of the water in your washer. You get either hot, cold, or a mix of the hot and cold water that's currently available to the machine. So if the cold water that enters the machine is very cold--or if the hot water entering the machine is very hot--the warm water is affected. 

If you live in a Northern climate, unless you adjust the hot and cold water taps that supply water to your washer, the warm water supplied to your washer is usually hotter during the summer months and colder during the winter months.

Posted on May 08, 2009

prawinmv22
  • 106 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Front Load Washer, 417.44082400, will not

Hi. this is a failed timer device. simply replacing the timer control module will eliminate these issues you are having.

Posted on Jun 12, 2009

  • 1382 Answers

SOURCE: Washer stops during rinse cycle and receive ER20

Hi,

Get the washer laying on it's side and using the access hole on the bottom carefully remove the screw clamp holding the large hole of the rubber housing to the tub drain (it will be obvious all other clips are green compression clips).

  • Carefully work the strainer out of this flexible rubber drain housing through the large hole.Clean it out and replace you will be good to go. Also remove all the hoses and check for a buildup of gunk. Hope this will fix your problem.


Thank you !!

Posted on Aug 13, 2010

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It will fill but once full the motor will only spin for a few seconds then stop


IT MAY BE DUE TO A RINSE PROBLEM?

WASHER WILL NOT RINSE:
If your washer doesn't go through the washer rinse cycle, the most likely cause is the water valve. What happens is the water valve will stop letting cold water into the washer; therefore, once the washer gets to rinse it will either stop or not do anything during the whole rinse cycle.
This is because when you selected your water temperature, you selected warm/cold or hot/cold. The hot water came in and you didn't notice any problems. When it got to rinse, the cold water the cold water won't come in. Therefore, the washer does nothing.
To check the water valve, first cut the water off and remove the hoses off the back of the washer. Then one at a time point the hoses inside the washer tub and turn the water back on. If you don't have good water pressure, turn the water back off and remove the strainer that should be in one end of the hose. Inspect the strainer to see if it is stopped up, clean it and reinstall it. Now repeat this test. If you have good water pressure now, reinstall hose and your problem is fixed.
If you still don't have good water pressure, the problem is in your house plumbing and you need to call a plumber. If you had good water pressure the first time you performed the test, the water valve is bad and needs replacing.
TIMER
If your washer doesn't go through the washer rinse cycle the timer may be the problem. Sometimes the timer gets stuck in the middle of the cycle or won't turn at all. If the washer runs, but the timer doesn't turn, the timer is bad and needs replacing.
Do you have anti-flood hoses leading to the machine. If you do there is probably a loose tube in the back causing a small leak. When the hoses detect that water is still flowing after a certain amount of time due to the leak it shuts down and causes the machine to turn off during the rinse/spin cycle

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