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A good starting point would be about 1 to 11/4 turns out from the screws turn all the way in. Take note of the turns required on each screw to turn in (clockwise) This does not apply to the idle adjustment screw.
So the chain stops and the motor still runs. Does it run at high RMP or just idles. It could be the chain brake. My clutch froze up on me after an hour of running. I had to let it cool and then take it apart to free it up.
this would be chain tension also the shock should be complete compressed chain should have 1/4 in for trail riding and 3/8 for racing.......my own experiance
Check at your nearest home center, hardware store, or saw dealer for these components. If nothing is near you, check Oregon saw on the web for these parts--they make bars and chains for nearly any saw ever made. Good luck!
Is the chain brake set? Make sure that the chain is not adjusted too tightly. It should be set so that the chain doesn't droop from the bottom, but allows the chain to be moved freely by hand. The chain teeth should cut toward you on the bottom. Check the chain oiling by running the saw tip near to paper or cardboard--it should leave a thin line of oil after a few moments of running. Hope this helps!
Put some grunt in it, don't panic when it clicks it is supposed to, Pull it aft as far as possible. If you can't get it to operate try your friendly neighborhood chainsaw seller/mechanic, Probably free, Purchase a new chain or 2. Ask them to demonstrate how to reset brake. Reset Chain Brake by Dolfoff Please follow this link, http://www.fixya.com/support/t3102817-re_install_side_cover_after_chain cursor down to “Best Solution”, while there click the “Was this helpful? [Yes]” button If you don’t have a vise a large C clamp to a work surface might work, you may still need a block or two of wood. HTH Lou
It's possible that you have the anti-kick brake on or you have the chain adjusted too tight. The guard in front of the top handle should be all the way back to release the brahe. Hope this helps you
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