Question about Dryers

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Hi i have a 10 year old dryer that is taking upwards of 2 hours to dry a load of cloths, i have taken the machine apart and cleaned it completely, the vent is clean, so i know its not a venting issue, when i use the auto dry setting the timer never moves and it will run forever, when i use time dry is takes up to 2 60 minute cycles to get the cloths 80% dry, does anyone have and ideas? i've read that the coil's could be bad, the "gas dryer" sensor could be bad... Please help the wife is getting pissed cause i cant figure this out

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  • briyouu Jul 12, 2010

    does anyone else have a differt idea of my problem?

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2 Answers

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  • Master
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HI. I suspect that the issue will be the actual timer control module. With that said; I will list all the possible areas of concern that will need to be inspected.

1. Monitoring Thermostats - Most dryers have a choice of temperature settings, therefore a separate thermostat is used for each setting. The selector switch and timer control module then routes the circuit through the appropriate thermostat. If a thermostat fails, it may prevent the heat from coming on, This happens because the thermostat does not close the circuit when the temperature falls below the operating temperature of the switch. It is a simple matter to test a thermostat; it should show continuity when the switch is cool and no continuity when it is warmer than its rated temperature.A thermostat can also fail by being always on, no matter what the temperature. This switch would show continuity whether it was hot or cold. In this case, the heater will not shut off and the the dryer could dangerously overheat. As a safety precaution a second thermostat is used, This is called a Thermal fuse. The power will be cut to the heating circuit if the maximum safe temperature is exceeded. In most cases, this is a one time fuse. The heater circuit(Burner Assembly) will not function until the fuse has been replaced. Of course, it will be necessary to determine and repair the underlying cause of overheating or the fuse will just burn out again. The most common cuase of overheating will be a clogged ventilation assembly. Be sure to inspect the entire ventilation asssembly for build up. This will cuase issues, if obstructions exsist.The thermostats are usually grouped together. The are typically oval in shape and about an inch and a half in size. They may be on the blower housing, under the lint trap or inside the vent line or burner chamber. There should be two wires connected to each thermostat.Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals. You may need to use a pair of needle pliers to remove the connectors. Once the connectors are removed,Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.To test the thermostats or fuse, set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading of either zero or infinity. At room temperature, the thermostats should have a reading of zero. When the thermostats are heated to their limit temperature, they should switch off and you should get a reading of infinity. The fuse should be tested at room temperature for continuity. Replace the thermosate that failes this test. If all thermostats past this test, move on to step two.

2. Timer - This device is the principal power commander. This device works in conjunction with the selector switch and monitoring thermostats. If this device fails, there will be fluctuation in the heating cycle or no heat at all. Once you have gained access to this device and its connections; Take a close look at the timer motor control. Depending on your make and model, there may be a number of wires connected to it. Locate the wires that deliver power to the mechanism. These wires should be slightly larger in size than the other ones. Use your needle pliers to remove one of the power leads. Pull the connector off the terminal by pulling on the connector, NOT the wire, or it may break the wire off(Not good).Next;Lift the dryers control panel up and set your units timer to a normal dry cycle. If your multimeter came with alligator clip probe adapters, this will be great here, so put them on if you have them. If not, any meter(ohm) will do.Set the multimeter to read ohms (usually labeled R1 or RX1). Clip or touch one probe to the terminal from which you removed the wire. Touch the other probe to one of the other terminals. You should get a reading of zero. If you get a high reading, then the timer motor is bad and it's time to replace it. If the timer proves to be in good condition, move on to the last area of concern(step3)

3. Burner assembly - On the gas valve are one or two coils (solenoids) used to open and close the valve to control the flow of gas. If a coil fails, gas will not flow and the dryer will have no heat.The easiest way to diagnose a problem in the burner assembly is to observe the burner operation. Remove the small access panel at the bottom, front of the dryer, select a high temperature setting and start the appliance. Watch the burner assembly, shortly after starting the dryer the ignitor should begin to glow. Next you should hear the click of the gas valve coil and a flame should ignite. The flame should be mostly blue and it should remain on for a minute or more.If the ignitor glows for several seconds (up to 15 seconds) and then goes out, the problem is probably the coils (solenoids). If the ignitor glows and stays on, then the problem is usually the flame sensor. If it ignites and then quickly goes out, it is most likely a problem with inadequate air flow.Test the coil for resistance using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X10. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should change from a reading of infinity to roughly 1300 ohms (+/- 150 ohms) when the probes touch the terminals. If the reading is infinity or substantially different from 1300 ohms, the solenoid should be replaced.


NOTE_ Use extreme caution during your testing procedures. You will find the culprit in one or all of the areas stated above. Be sure to unplug the unit before you begin.


Posted on Jul 12, 2010

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  • Dryers Master
  • 19,396 Answers

Hi.

Re:"i've read that the coil's could be bad, the "gas dryer" sensor could be bad"

In both situations you would have no flame at all, if the valve opens and the dryer ignites, then coils and flame sensor are OK.

If the machine is taking a long time to dry, or if flame is on and machine heats very poorly or run forever, replace the set of thermostats. Thermostats are located in air duct, near to the burner, or on the exhaust, you have two or three of them.

First ensure you have checked filter, vents and duct and removed lint.

To get parts and diagrams use the links below:

Where do I find parts and diagrams for my...




Posted on Jul 12, 2010

  • briyouu Jul 12, 2010

    ya its all clean, i spent over and hour with the air gun cleaning everything out, you dont think its the sensor near the burner assembly?

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