Question about Whirlpool 25.6 cu. ft. Side-by-Side Refrigerator with In-Door-Ice Dispensing System

1 Answer

ICE MAKER NOT OPERATING--I DO NOT UNDERSTAND THE ON--OFF SWITCH SENSOR ***'Y --WHAT IS THE SENSORS FUNCTION. I HAVE WATER AND THE SOLENOID IS OPERATIONAL BUT NOTHING IS CALLING FOR WATER AND I HAVE NOT SEEN THE ICE MAKE MOTOR OPERATE, IT IS ALWAYS IN THE SAME POSITION

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  • Whirlpool Master
  • 17,970 Answers

Common problem is a clog inside the ice maker. Anyway clog is most likely about an inch from the in take line inside the ice maker.

Check to see whether the ice maker has been turned off. Here's how to check. Look for a wire along the right side of the ice maker that looks a bit like a coat hanger. If this wire is in the raised position, the ice maker is turned off. On some units you simply lower the wire to the down position to turn the ice maker on. On others, you lower a small red plastic lever to lower the wire. If the wire is in the proper position check the freezer temperature, it should be between 0-8 degrees Fahranheit. If it is warmer than 10-12 degrees, the ice maker may not produce any ice. Check your door seals and thermostat, repair/replace as necessary.

Take out the ice maker or turn off the freezer untill it thaw's then use a tooth pick or thin ice pick to push the clog through to the actual freezing tray, wash out the tray and re start the ice maker.

Tell us news.

Posted on Jul 12, 2010

  • 3 more comments 
  • ZJ Limited
    ZJ Limited Jul 12, 2010

    Also, HERE can find other troubleshooting tips.

  • jdhmikemaher Jul 12, 2010

    I JUMPED THE SOLENOID VALVE AND IT ALLOWED WATER INTO THE ICE TRAY. THE VALVE IS OPERATIONAL

    AND THE LINES ARE CLEAR. THIS ICE MAKER DOES NOT HAVE AN ARM ,AS YOU DESCRIBED( LEVEL CONTROL) IT OPERATES OFF OF SOME KIND OF OPTIC SYSTEM FOR LEVEL CONTROL. TO TURN OFF THE ICE MAKER -IT HAS AN ON-OFF SWITCH ON FREEZER WALL. THIS IS A WHIRLPOOL SIDE BY SIDE MODEL NO. GS5SVAXVA00

  • ZJ Limited
    ZJ Limited Jul 12, 2010

    This would indicate possibly the thru tube is still ice up or the fill
    valve is bad or the ice maker is not giving voltage to the fill valve.
    I would start with a bad fill valve if the thru tube is clear. The ice maker module is marked T and H on the right lower corner, you
    will want everything hooked up so you can see if any water enters. The
    ice maker opens the coil on the fill valve so water will enter the ice
    maker for aprox 8 seconds. If you hear the fill valve hum but no water
    enters and the thru tube is clear you know the valve is bad. Test the module as instructed:

    - If the icemaker cycles, but no water, replace the valve.

    - If the icemaker does not cycle, replace the module.

    Click the links below to order the parts:

    Module

    Valve

    Hope helps.

  • jdhmikemaher Jul 12, 2010

    HOW DOES THE OPTIC SENSOR OPERATE WITH THE ICE MAKER, WHAT IS ITS FUNCTION?

  • ZJ Limited
    ZJ Limited Jul 12, 2010


    If you have a whirlpool refrigerator with the ice-bin mounted in the
    door it will not have the feeler arm, it will have an ice level control
    optics. The optics is just two sensors, one on each side of the freezer
    and when ice gets high enough to block the sensors it cuts the icemaker
    off. This part can be found at AppliancePartsPros.com. This is the test procedure for this
    Whirlpool icemaker.


    1. First, open the freezer and look on the right-hand side and you
    should see a blinking light.


    A. If the light is blinking twice and then off for one second
    repeatedly something is blocking the optics, which is normal because
    when you open the door, a flapper springs out to block the optics so
    that the icemaker will not dump when the door is open. Proceed to step
    2.


    B. If there is no light the icemaker is either in the harvest mode or
    the optics are bad and need replacing. To check this, press in on the
    flapper to unblock the optics. If when you do this the light flashes
    once every second the icemaker is in the harvest mode and if not the
    optics are bad.


    2. Next press in on the flapper to unblock the optics.


    A. If the light blinks once followed by a one second delay, the optics
    are bad and needs replacing.


    B. If the light is on continuously the optics are working properly.


    C. If the light is still blinking the same as before you pressed the
    flap the optics are bad.


    If the optics passes the test the problem is the icemaker or the water
    valve. To check this first, disconnect power from the refrigerator then
    slide the icemaker out without unplugging it and remove the cover off
    the front of the icemaker. Then take a six-inch piece of insulted wire
    and skin about ½ inch on each end. Place one end of the jumper wire in
    the hole marked H and the other end in the hole marked T. Next close the
    door to align the optics and reconnect power. Wait 5 seconds then open
    the door and the icemaker should have started the cycle if not replace
    the motor module (part number 8201515 - PLS verified it). If the icemaker completes the
    cycle and no water enters the icemaker the water valve is bad and needs
    replacing.

    You can order the parts you need from the
    following places, http://www.apwagner.com/,
    http://www.repairclinic.com/,
    http://www.searspartsdirect.com/,
    or http://www.partstore.com/,
    all of these places offer easy returns and reasonable prices for their
    items.

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Manitowok ID0452A-161 water not draining one water tray is filled causing water to over flow into ice bin melting ice. Need to know where the float switch is and dump valve solenoid. FOR TROUBLESHOOTING


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1 Answer

My ice dispenser quit working


There are multiple components that can cause this.
Open the door and put your finger in the ice tray. Is there any ice or water in it.
If so then the problem is likely the ice maker.
If not then the water supply is either stopped up or the water valve solenoid is broke.
If their is ice then the ice maker may not be making ice for other reasons. Is the Ice Level arm down? If so, the Icemaker has a clock like motor that is actuated by a temperature sensor.

Ice maker calls for water, solenoid fills ice tray, temperature sensor gets cold over about 45 minutes and closes the motor circuit telling the icemaker to dump ice.

If everything is right and still doensn't make ice, some mechanical aspect or the icemaker appears to be broken.

Thanks for using FixYa, Good Luck.

Mar 03, 2011 | GE Refrigerators

1 Answer

I have a side by side and my icemaker is not making ice


Check to see if the ice maker is frozen up. Use a hair dryer to see if it can be thawed. Also do you hear the water inlet solenoid operating. The solenoid is operated by the rotating vane of the ice maker and a micro switch that operates when a cam off of the end of the vane makes contact. If the water in the fill tube high on the back of the ice maker freezes, then it will not let water flow, even if the ice maker timer motor is operating, thus try to unfreeze. If the inlet water solenoid is kaput, then no water flows and you will have to replace the inlet solenoid.

Jan 22, 2011 | Whirlpool Refrigerators

3 Answers

RS 2545SH ICEMAKER


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The water inlet valve on the back of unit opens when the ice maker needs water. If the valve doesn't seal good because of sediment or wear it will continue to drip and when the water reaches the ice maker supply tube it will freeze blocking the fill tube.. You can take the water line off the valve and watch to see if it drips.

Feb 22, 2010 | Samsung Refrigerators

1 Answer

The icemaker and water dispenser will not dispense water or ice


Hi
Many top-freezer ice makers have very similar ice makers that are pretty easy to diagnose. Side by side refrigerators have a variety of ice makers so I’ll start with the more common top freezer units. If yours makes crescent shaped ice cubes this will probably be relevant to your unit.
These ice makers have a metal wire bail or wand that senses if the ice level is too high. This sensor stops the ice maker from making ice that would overflow the catch bin. Check to make sure this sensor isn’t obstructed or locked at the far end of its travel. In normal operation the sensor wand should be resting against the ice maker. As it begins a cycle the wand sweeps across the catch bin and will be stopped if ice has risen too high. The same wand can be locked in a position at the far end of its travel to disable the ice maker. This is the most common cause of no ice. This may be what you meant by "made sure the tray was set right and arm was done"
If you have a different type of ice maker just spend a few minutes watching it operate or examine the non-operating unit. If you have a neighbor with a similar unit take a look at theirs. Many have a front cover that easily pops off giving access to the internal works. Listen as you watch to hear solenoid valves open, water flow, etc.
Make sure you look for any other interlock switches that would stop ice making if the tray were removed, the door was opened, etc.
You’ve already checked the water line, I’ll assume you disconnected it and tested for water flow or it was a translucent line and that you saw water in it. While you could do further tests on the water inlet valve, it’s probably easier just to verify that water is making it into the ice mold. If no water or ice is in the mold then you need to check the inlet valve or check the timer’s water switch. If there’s water or ice in the mold then your water supply is working and we need to look elsewhere. If there’s ice in the mold the most likely cause is the heater or ejector. If there's water it could be several things from the freezer temperature to the heater switch.
It's easier to figure out the problem if you have a simplified idea of how the ice making process works. An electromechanical timer controls the sequence of events for the entire process and acitivates valves and switches at the proper stage of the process. An ice mold receives water through an inlet valve. The mold is usually cooled just by the freezer air and relies on it's mass to retain the cold. Once the water has been in the mold for the correct time the cubes are given a brief shot of heat from a heating element in the mold. This loosens things up so a mechanical ejector can push the cubes from the mold. More water is added and the process continues.
please chek this link,for further help..
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/icemaker/diagicemaker.php

Thanks for contacting Fixya.com

Oct 12, 2009 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

The ice maker on amana bottom freezer is not making ice?


Hi
Many top-freezer ice makers have very similar ice makers that are pretty easy to diagnose. Side by side refrigerators have a variety of ice makers so I’ll start with the more common top freezer units. If yours makes crescent shaped ice cubes this will probably be relevant to your unit.
These ice makers have a metal wire bail or wand that senses if the ice level is too high. This sensor stops the ice maker from making ice that would overflow the catch bin. Check to make sure this sensor isn’t obstructed or locked at the far end of its travel. In normal operation the sensor wand should be resting against the ice maker. As it begins a cycle the wand sweeps across the catch bin and will be stopped if ice has risen too high. The same wand can be locked in a position at the far end of its travel to disable the ice maker. This is the most common cause of no ice. This may be what you meant by "made sure the tray was set right and arm was done"
If you have a different type of ice maker just spend a few minutes watching it operate or examine the non-operating unit. If you have a neighbor with a similar unit take a look at theirs. Many have a front cover that easily pops off giving access to the internal works. Listen as you watch to hear solenoid valves open, water flow, etc.
Make sure you look for any other interlock switches that would stop ice making if the tray were removed, the door was opened, etc.
You’ve already checked the water line, I’ll assume you disconnected it and tested for water flow or it was a translucent line and that you saw water in it. While you could do further tests on the water inlet valve, it’s probably easier just to verify that water is making it into the ice mold. If no water or ice is in the mold then you need to check the inlet valve or check the timer’s water switch. If there’s water or ice in the mold then your water supply is working and we need to look elsewhere. If there’s ice in the mold the most likely cause is the heater or ejector. If there's water it could be several things from the freezer temperature to the heater switch.
It's easier to figure out the problem if you have a simplified idea of how the ice making process works. An electromechanical timer controls the sequence of events for the entire process and acitivates valves and switches at the proper stage of the process. An ice mold receives water through an inlet valve. The mold is usually cooled just by the freezer air and relies on it's mass to retain the cold. Once the water has been in the mold for the correct time the cubes are given a brief shot of heat from a heating element in the mold. This loosens things up so a mechanical ejector can push the cubes from the mold. More water is added and the process continues.
please chek this link,for further help..
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/icemaker/diagicemaker.php

Thanks for contacting Fixya.com

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1 Answer

Water does not flow through the dispenser


sounds like the sensors are playing up causing the bottom of the fridge to freeze, this will also cause the water reservior to freeze thus no water to the ice tray and water dispensor. do a full defrost then see if you gain back all the functions proving the sensor fault.

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1 Answer

No ice


try to ohm out the solenoid if it (beeps) or ohms out then the solenoid is bad. The laser is first than there is a switch in the gear on the rotating fingers that eject the ice that sends power to the water solenoid.

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1 Answer

Optical sensor or valve problem


Your ice maker has an automatic shutoff. The ice maker sensor passes a beam from one freezer wall to the other, automatically stopping ice production when the storage bin is full. When you open the freezer door, you should see a red light on the top right freezer wall.When the freezer door is open or the ice storage bin is removed, the sensor cover or "flipper door" on the left wall of the freezer stops the ice maker from producing ice by blocking this sensor, When the beam is blocked, the red light on the right will blink twice. This is normal operation. as for the blink twice and pause I'm still checking on that. Make sure the water flow is coming from the solenoid valve located on back and bottom of refrigerator to the ice maker. Check the solenoid to see if the magnetic field is pulling the internal plunger open when ice maker ask for water. That can be checked with a multi meter at the wireing going to the solenoid and if the ice optics are telling the tray to fill voltage should be present. Insure that water supply is not restricted before it comes to the solenoid , like a bent line or clogged piercing valve.  Check that an ice cube is not jammed in the ejector arm of the ice maker. Remove jammed ice from the ejector arm using only a plastic utensil so the ice maker is not damaged. Call toll free in USA and a trained consultant will be happy to assist you. 1-866-698-2538

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