Question about Intex Automatic Salt Water System for Above Ground Saltwater Pool
When you fill a pool with new water ... the first thing to do is remove the metals. Did you do that? This should be done with a sequestering agent ... "Metal Out" is one generic name. Treat according to the package instructions. You should treat for metal before any other product is added to the water. I believe you are seeing 'rust' from the iron in your water. The salt did it If you said green I would say you have copper or mag in the water. You may have a variety of metals in the water. Nitrates? Get rid of them ... they will eat the CL as soon as you add it. If yours is a gunnite pool, expect serious staining. To remove staining, consult your pool professional.
It is probably too late for the above ... let the CL go to zero or add some thiosulfate to kill it. Get it at the pool supply place. Use according to package instructions. Then go back to the start and add the metal out, etc.
After the metal is out of the water, you should raise the CL level - 2 to 4 PPM - using liquid or dry CL. Your filter should run 24/7. When the pressure on your filter increases 10 PSI, you should back wash - NOT BEFORE!
Check your Alkalinity ... get it to 100. When this is done (and this will not happen in minutes - it will take hours ... move slow on adding chemicals. You already saw what speedy adding of chemicals does (Brown Water)
When the Alk is 100, (use Sodium Bi Carb or dry acid for this) then adjust your pH - (use Bi Carb or dry acid for this). Your pH goal is 7.4 (7.2 to 7.8 is acceptible).
Now is the time to add salt (after your water is balanced!). There is a chart in your salt machine instruction manual that will tell you how much salt to use. Your goal should be about 3200 ppm salt. If the salt is low, you will not make CL at all. If the salt is high, you will have to dump some water to dilute back to around 3200 ppm.
You should consider adding Cyanuric Acid to your pool to around 60 - 80 ppm. Cyanuric acid will protect the CL in your out of doors pool. Just a side note, dry CL normally comes with cyanuric acid in it for stabilizing. Since you are making CL, you will need to add the cyanuric acid to protect it.
You don't say if you are gunnite or plastic ... if gunnite - you should consider your calcium level. Calcium should be around 300 ppm. (you can go as high as 1000) To much (more than 1000), you have to dulute it with water that is lower in the mineral. If there is little or none, the water will take the mineral from the surface of your pool - not good. Again, your goal is 300 ppm
This is all information that your Pool Tech guy will charge you $ for - or you can get it free from your pool chemical supply place. You also got it free here at FixYa.com from this volunteer CPO (Certified Pool Operator) question catcher. Please remember to evaluate this response.
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Posted on Jul 12, 2010
It might be easier to start fresh. Have a professional acid wash your swimming pool and make sure you remove the metals from your water with "BIO DEX STAIN OUT" prior to chemically treating your water.
Posted on Jun 19, 2011
You have alot of Iron in your water like we did. Just keep your pump running and change the filter cartridge at least 3 times per day. After about 7-10 days, the iron will eventually be taken out of suspension. Hope this helps.
Posted on Jul 12, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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