Question about Whirlpool Cabrio WTW6600SBT Top Load Washer
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Remove washer cabinet (easy to remove)and check that "base pads" (there are 3 pads, located under the main tub)are not worn. In case they are worn (even one of them), you should replce them all. Good luck !!
Posted on Jun 07, 2006
there is a coupling between the motor and transmission that has cracked. with the crack in the coupling the transmission cant spin as fast as the motor causeing the loud noise. replace coupling to solve problem
Posted on Nov 21, 2007
SOURCE: loud noise at end of spin cycle
The most common cause of the symptom you are describing is a bad drive block which has probably ruined your basket drive as well. Let me give a quick explination. The weight of the basket you put your clothes in is supported entirely in the center of the washer underneath your agitator. It rests on an aluminum block called your drive block. So that the basket will move back and forth while the washer agitates, there are two tabs on the drive block that lock your basket drive underneath in place. Once the drive block wears out or round down these tabs, the basket will raise slightly and "skip" across the top when the spin cyle is stopped. To verify this, you can check one of two things. First (and easiest) is put a heavy, large load in the washer, get it wet then spin it out. Once the washer reaches the maximum spin speed, open the lid. The washer should snap to a halt when functioning properly. What I belive you'll find is that even with the lid open, the basket will continue to spin. The other method to verify this is take the top of the agitator off. Next remove the bolt in the middle of the agitator and lift the agitator off. In the middle, you should find a large flat metal colored nut.In the middle of that nut, you should see two tabs across from one another. There should be two straight pieces of metal coming up from the bottom which have nice, straight sharp corners. Again, if I am correct, you will find they have been rounded off and there may even be shavings of metal visable.
To replace a basket drive and drive block, you will need to purchase the parts and also a specialty tool from removal and instalation. These will probably run you around 125-175. If you are interested in giving it a go, reply back to me and I will get you some step-by-stpe instructions typed up.
Posted on Jun 26, 2008
sounds as if you might have a bad rear bearing, real obnoxious almost painful to listen too kinda sounds. big job, but might have some part warrentee depending on age of unit
Posted on Oct 21, 2008
There are 2 things you can do.
All washing machines have an off balance shut off, some are touchy, some let it run around the house. With wht machine empty, lean it towards you, on the 2 front feet, about 2 or 3 inches and let it drop. The self leveling feet in the rear must BOTH make good floor gontact and sometimes, just the weight of the machine will not adjust them. The other thing is, make sure the load is evenly distributed. Coats, blankets, small rugs etc. are very heavy when wet and they tend to throw all of the weight to one side.
There is no screw holding the yub in place. It hangs on the center post, where the agitator goes. There is however, what's called a snubber. It is a rubber device that looks like a flattened suction cup, that comes in contact with the tub. It helps keep the tub from jumping around too much.
Posted on Feb 02, 2009
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