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I have bought an arlec MAL800 series flood lights but the back of the light switch shhows 3 terminals A,OUT,N can you tell me which one is which ie live, neutral earth etc. The instuctions only say not to conect the earth. Can you help me please. Thanks Jim.

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Terminal Designation

Ok if R is live use tester volt meter 110 volts connect tester from cord terminal one tester connect to R the nmulti tester read 110 volt if ok good .

Posted on Jan 10, 2008

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SOURCE: Colour coding

ifu get a bulb on a piece of wire earth 1 end and touch the wires with other when the bulb lights u a live or supply or other ise just get a volt meter hope this helps

Posted on May 03, 2009

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SOURCE: Hi, I have just replace the room thermostat on my

Well in your case,if the central heating was working before you change the defective thermoatat.Phaps you have done the wrong connection of the thermostat,if you look well at the connection of the thermostat, how will you recognise the earth borne is that it is fixed to the body of the part,so this means that the thermostat 3 cores are (1) common,(2) normally close,(3) normally open.With a multimeter it be very easy to determine the core that you have to cannect.

Posted on Oct 05, 2009

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SOURCE: I have wired a new light fitting into our

Probably put your family at risk of electricution . By connecting the live cables to earth you have effectivly made all the metal light fittings live. It is amazing that the fuse has not blown, This in itself is dangerous and you should have an electrician look at the wiring.
The correct wiring should be as follows.
Identify cables there should be 2 twin and earth (red black & copper earth) cables and 1 twin red and copper earth. (or 2 single red wires)
connect all copper earth wires suitably sheathed in green/yellow sleeving to earth lug.
Connect 2 black cables to neutral block.
Connect either single red (0r 1 of 2 reds) into live block.
connect remaining 3 reds into loop block.

Posted on Nov 13, 2009

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SOURCE: I have just purchased a new electric cooker. The

Live goes to live as normal earth to earth as normal, and the neutral is probably a comonj terminal, in other words it probably has a lnk joining the 2 neutrals together.

Posted on Nov 09, 2010

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My flood lights have a manual function so that I can wire a light switch to them and use them with switch as well as a motion detector. However the users manual does not provide instructions or diagra

you need to either break the circuit going to the light, so find the wire that powers the light & cut it where you want the switch, then join the black wires together & put the reds in each end of the switch.
or the way you asked about, which will depend on what your light has in the of terminals in the conection box.
ill do you a drawing..........

flood-lights-manual-function-wire-light-kh0zpbanw2f22f2jnqn4pytl-4-0.jpg so take the red out of its terminal in the back of the light, put it in its own conector or a spare one thats already in the light, might be labeled (manual function) then run one 2 core/ twin & earth wire to where you want your switch to be, & then wire it up like the picture, red in com black in either l1 or l2..
go back to the light & take the red of your new wire & put it in the same terminal as the one i just told you to take out, then put the black from your new wire & put it where the red wire was to start with.
your live could be either red or brown depends on the cable used.
check your swith aswell b4 screwing it to the back box, to make sure you put it the right way up,nothing more anoying than an upside down
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I bought a Leviton 1201-PLC 15 Amp, 120 Volt, Toggle Pilot Light, Illuminated ON to replace a traditional 3 way switch (without a pilot). I replaced it by connecting the existing wires to the new switch in...

Your screw terminals are 2-brass and 1-dark.
Dark screw is considered 'common'

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Wiring diagram indicates that pilot light is ON whenever switch has power.§ion=10046&minisite=10026

Check your instruction sheet that pilot light is supposed to turn on-off with Load.
I don't think it is, without additional terminal on switch for neutral wire.
And then it would only work on switch located closest to light.

You can wire this type of thing separately.
Buy ordinary pilot light or indicator light from WW Grainger.
Look at diagram on following image:

Upvote the help.
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In addition to your answer that was given to you. Look at the amp rating on the switch you just removed. It's probably a 20 amp switch (if you already had 12 guage wire in there, and it worked fine), and you're replacing it with a 15 amp. Happens all the time. As far as the answer given you, its fine. The only time you would use a 4-way switch is when it's being operated by two 3-way switches from opposite ends like the gentleman mentioned. I would suggest getting the correct 3-way switch. It just makes things easier. And again, turn OFF the circuit when working on this switch - or anytime you're working on anything electrical. This is a huge Rule-of-Thumb! I've been doing electrical work for over 27 yrs., and I always turn OFF the electricity.  Best of Luck to you, and I hope this is a little added solution to the one you already have. Take care...Jim 

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