Question about Whirlpool LGR8648L Gas Dryer

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We are in a new house and trying to figure out how long the exhaust vents should be concerning safety fire hazard. Model # lgr8648lwo

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As short as possible with no turns if possible. Ideally it would be short and stright, If possible have someone small that can climb over machine after tighting the clamps. Use a aluminum hose and snips or dikes to cut. Do not use the plastic ones they are a fire hazard and a code violation in many states.

Posted on Jul 11, 2010

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More than one sharp turn or over 10 feet could cause clogging/fire concerns due to slowed air speed. Even these extents you want to avoid if at all possible. Smooth exhaust tubing will be much more effective at these limits.

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The thermal fuse, if blown, usually blows for a reason. In most cases this is attributed to a dryer that does not have sufficient ventilation and has become clogged either internally or somewhere within the ventilation ducting. I would strongly recommend that before you attempt to by-pass a safety device,that you try to resolve the problem that may have caused the thermal fuse to blow in the first place. Failure to do so, can result in a more significant failure of the dryer and/or become a potential fire hazard. If you need some advice on how to trouble shoot an ELECTRIC dryer, the following links can give you some guidance on some of the most common problems:


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In severe cases of dryer vent clogging, you may experience condensation inside the drum and/or vent exhaust. The dryer exhausts warm, moist air. If the heat and moisture have no where to go, it will condensate inside the drum and exhaust vent. Before assuming you have a problem with the appliance, check your installation to ensure you are providing the dryer with proper exhaust and air flow. This is the NUMBER ONE cause of poor drying efficiency. A dryer that is clogged, or has restricted air flow, will not dry efficiently and will cause the heating circuits to OVERHEAT. This eventually will lead to component failures and is the source of many fire hazards. There are no adjustments that can be made to any of the internal thermostats or heating element to make it run at a higher temperature. All these components have a fixed setting. If the dryer still produces heat, this usually a good sign the heating element is working. If the dryer is clogged, however, the internal protection devices, such as the Hi-Limit Thermostat and Internal Bias Thermostat will shut the heating element off prematurely to prevent the dryer from overheating, and to prevent damage to the heating element. Eventually, the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) or Thermal Fuse will trip and the dryer will not run.or produce heat.



NOTE: If you have already determined the exhaust ventilation is clear from the point where it leaves the back of the dryer to the point where it exits your home, you need to check the vent hose run to ensure there are no excessive bends or kinks that can be causing choke points that restrict air flow. If the vent line checks ok, then you need to inspect your blower fan housing inside the dryer to ensure it is not clogged. If you have any questions, please post back and let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

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You have a bare wire inside the dryer laying on a metal part of the vent system. FIRE HAZARD

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The back of my dryer is getting very hot and actually tripped the breaker, also clothes taking forever to dry


Pull the exhaust vent off and check for obstructions, if there's no flow, all the heat is going to build up and also block any lint from escaping out the vent as well.
This can be a fire hazard as well. You may also need to open the dryer and clean out all the lint build up.
When you pull the pull flex hose off the back (the 4"diameter one) check in the back of the machine in the pipe and also in the flex tube. You may have to explore a little in the exhaust line to find the blockage...sounds like this is your issue...
k

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yes fire hazard ---but you need to make sure the lint trapp is seated all the way down if it doesant seat the lint will blow pass the screen ,,replacment might be nesasary if trapp is damaged less than 20 dollers at most parts stores.

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Check that the gas sensor is clear or any lint/dust/crud, etc. as that could be preventing the gas valve from opening up and allowing ignition. Typically all gas dryers have a safety feature that won't allow operation if the exhaust vent pipe has excessive lint and dust in it, as that is a fire hazard.

Look in your owner's manual to see the procedures for accessing the vent exhaust and follow your specific instructions. Usally there is an access panel/door at the bottom front of the dryer that will allow you to get inside the vent, etc. Inside that is a surface mounted sensor that does a couple of things; checks for proper air (venting) flow; no excessive dust/lint buildup; and that the ignitor coil has been "lit", etc.

If any of these doesn't occur, the gas valve will not open. Follow the monthly cleaning procedure/check to make certain that the dryer is safe to use and operate.

If all the above are OK, then it is likely that the sensor has failed and needs to be replaced. You can look at the searspartsdirect.com to find your particular model using their parts diagrams and illustrations of your dryer, etc.

Glad to assist!

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As long as the air flow is good, gravity shouldn't make any real difference.

For more free DIY and other help & advice, feel free to contact me.

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http://www.microwavecontrol.com
Microwave Oven Control Panel Repair Nationwide
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