Question about Onkyo SKW-210 Subwoofer

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Electrical short in the subwoofer

I have looked inside the subwoofer on my system because the piece of equipment was not working. I found that the fuse was blown. I purchased the required fuse, installed it and attempted to plug on the subwoofer, when the fuse blew again. This leaving me to believe that there is a short in the circuit somewhere. However there are no exposed wires, burnt or melted wiring and the back of the circuit board doesn't show any signs of carbon tracks. I was curious if I could get more insight. Thank you

Jordon Spencer

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You're quite right when a fuse blows there's a short. The short will be in either the power supply section, or the main amp. You will be looking for a semi-conductor of some sort. A multi meter on the ohm setting will track it down quick if it's a transistor. As the meter scale will be just like you have touched the probes together. Follow the circuit back from the fuse. Check any part that you suspect. If the sub uses an IC power amp, it could be a strong suspect!

Posted on Jul 19, 2010

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I found this online. I didn't write it, I didn't try it, but it sure sounds good. First off, I had same problem with an old LifeStyle Series 12 and trying to get in to that case is like trying to get in to Fort Knox... I found these answers on a forum.. I wanted to let you know I didn't not discover them myself but it worked for me.. Also my fuse was bad... I am off to the electrical supply house as soon as I finish typing.. Without further ado:

OK Fellas (and Ladies), here's more detail on the blown fuse fix:
1. You can find the 'plastic swivel tab with notches' by looking for gear teeth in the top rear of the unit. To provide some context, I've placed the subwoofer with the serial number side down, horn is up-front and treble/bass dials on the left. Remove the dial knobs.
2. Now place the unit flat with the horn-side down. Literally use a tennis shoe to spank the plastic cover (on the same side as the gear wheel) in a 45 degree upward motion so the RCA plug holes in the plastic cover are dislodged from the jacks and the unit pops off. One good spank does the job *hee hee*.
3. 2 screws will be visible at the top of the green circuit board. Unscrew these and remove cable ribbons that attach circuit board to other pieces of the unit.
4. The fuse is a cylindrical glass piece, 5mmx20mm. Mine was burnt and coils were missing, an obvious sign of a blown fuse.
5. Don't go to radio shack to find a replacement. They are seriously under-equipped to assist. Go online or to a real electrical supply store to get a 3Amp, 250 Volt 5x20mm slowblow fuse. Don't try to call Bose either because this will inevitably result in more pain. They will try to coax you to order an owner's manual for $10 to get the part number, so you can pay an inflated rate to get the same piece from them. Grrr.
6. I saved $200 - thanks to all contributors on the board. Good work.
7. If this advice helps you, do something nice to help a homeless or mistreated animal. Humans can never be too kind to the rest of the creatures on this planet


Holy ****!!

OK, Bose owners out there listen up and listen good. Here's the real scoop on 1.(getting access to the inside of most bose subwoofers, 2.( repairing said subwoofer.

Follow these steps in removing the cover of your subwoofer. Unscrew the two screws from the cover. (They are on the input/output side of the cover) Remove the two knobs (Bass and treble volume). On the opposite side of the cover, (put those damn shoes back in the closet) there is a lockout tab that needs to be swung out, it moves 90 degrees in a counter-clockwise direction and is located under the center of the cover. A small flat blade screwdriver works great for swinging this tab out and will be necessary for the next step (the screwdriver that is). On the same side (opposite the input/output side) there are two small tabs near the edges of the cover, one on the right and it's counterpart on the left. If you look closely in the gap between the cover and the sub itself, you will see these 3/8" wide tabs near the edges and towards the top of the cover. With the flat blade screwdriver, put the blade between the cover and on the tab and pull down. Then with your hand balled into a fist, gently hit that side of the cover towards the input/output side. the cover will move only slightly but the tab should remain depressed. Do the same procedure on the opposite side of the cover and it will slide about a 1/2 to 3/4" towards the input/output side and can then be removed by pulling it straight up and off of the cabinet.

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