Question about Price Pfister Ashfield Single Control Lavatory Faucet ...

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Cold flow is much less volume than hot

Cold flow is almost a dribble compared to much greater(normal) hot flow. Is there an adjustment for this within the faucet?

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Replace the cartridge

Posted on Aug 09, 2010

  • mikegabin Aug 09, 2010

    Replacing cartridge had no effect on the problem.

  • zandar3 Aug 09, 2010

    there is no adjustment in the faucet.
    could be debris located somewhere in the faucet or even lodged in the supply hose or shut off valve. have seen this before, not very common, but can occur.
    remove the supply connections from the faucet and turn on the shut off valves spraying into a bucket. is there a difference in pressure? if there is a difference then your problem is before the faucet. could be in the supply hose of the shut off valve.

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Refer to the manufacturer's recommendations for back-flushing/descaling to flush out mineral deposits and build-up in the heat exchanger. You can check to see if this is a problem by comparing the full cold water flow with full hot water flow at the faucet. If the hot water flow is significantly slower than the cold then the heat exchanger is likely clogged with deposits and will not transfer heat sufficiently. If the flow is good then the heating element(s) maybe defective.

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Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly.

What is happening is that your cold water flow is greater in volume (gals per min) than your hot water. So when you open the cold water it is mixing with the hot water inside the faucett or shower plumbing and actually reverse flowing back into the hot water heater plumbing. The reverse flow slows the water flow sensing turbine inside the heater and it is thinking that there is not any water flow. (There isn't actually due to the equalization of water pressure when you open the cold water faucett) Since this is a safety feature of the tankless heater to keep it from overheating, it shuts off.
Somewhere in the hot water plumbing there is a major restriction. It may very well be the internal plumbing of the tankless hot water heater or the flow detector design.

There are 2 ways to correct this. The easy way would be to restrict the available cold water flow. You can do this by installing another shut off valve inline with the cold water plumbing and just not open the valve all the way. You would have to adjust the setting so that the hot and cold water can be on at the same time and the hot water heater stays on. The hard way is to locate the hot water flow restriction and eliminate it.
It is possible.... if you have a flow restrictor in a shower head or a screen in a faucett areator that they are partially clogged. Clean any flow restrictors and screens then see how the hot water heater performs before you start modifying plumbing.

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Hi, we have no water coming out of ours taps, in the kitchen=no cold at and a small slow dribble coming out the hot which is cold.The bathroom= small dribble of out of cold tap and small dribble out of hot...


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best I can tell you ,

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Hot water tank does not work when shower is on, it does however work when the faucet in bathroom is on. It quit working in the shower about a month ago.


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    If inlet water temperature is over 70°F due to geographic location, water maybe very hot out of the tap. This requires a lot of cold water to be added with it in order to attain a useable hot water temperature. The addition of too much cold water will overpower hot water demand from the tankless water heater. This slows the flow within the tankless water heater, decreasing it below activation point, which shuts off the heater. The end result is nothing but cold water coming out of the outlet. See: TWH E2-04 Overcoming fluctuating temperatures [PDF].
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    If the water pressure in the home is erratic and the water flow is not consistent while a tap is opened, then the temperature of hot water will fluctuate. The minimum water pressure for the home should be 30psi or greater. For people on well systems the minimum pressure range is 30-50psi. The use of a pressure reducing/regulating valve is an effective way to maintain constant water pressure to the water heater. Watts brand 25AUB- ¾" or N35B-¾" pressure reducing/regulating valves or equivalent is suggested.
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    Major changes in flow rate can adversely affect the output water temperature of the heater. Increases from one major fixture running to multiple fixtures running at one time can cause the temperature to fluctuate. Stay within the heater's specifications. See: TWH E2-03 Outlet temperature vs. flow rate [PDF].
From the Bosch website.

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Here's a test for you, try running running a sink while taking your next shower. If the hot water remains mostly constant throughout, then your problem is with flow at the showerhead. The flow at a shower head can be reduced by buildup of scale and sediment. Also all showerheads have a flow restrictor that limits flow to 2.5gpm (some even less). Removing the restrictor will increase the showerhead flow rate as well.
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