The lower heating element broke in half, while I was waiting for the part we used the broil but the wires that attatch to the lower heating element touched the medel and their was a popping noise and now nothing works in the oven part.. the burners on the top still functions fine

Was the original broil element broken or burnt?
Did you reuse the original spacers to ensure the new element is not touching the oven interior?
1) To determine if the broil element has burned out, use a multimeter to test the element for continuity. If the broil element does not have continuity, replace it. (Perform this test, even on a brand new element).
2) If element tests OK, then reinstall, and test continuity of the element wires themselves.
It really comes down to these two items. Element or wires.

Look at the wiring diagram... The manual reset Thermal Limiter Switch (part number 74008715), located on the lower rear insulation retainer can keep both elements from working, not one at a time... I would inspect the back of the bake relay for a burnt/failing solder joint. Swapping the BAKE and BROIL leads is an acceptable test, but if you put the bake leads on the broil and still get no heat: check the control relay. If the broil leads will not heat the bake element, you have a bad element or bad connection. Be sure to do all testing of the elements with at least one wire detached so as not to red a back circuit.

DID U TEST THE NEW ELEMENT B4 TRYING IT? U MIGHT BE SURPRISE. OTHER WISE I WOULD D SAY CHECK THE WIRING AND CONNECTIONS IF ITS NOT WORKING, CHECK FOR VOLTAGE AT THE CONNECTORS?


1.Even a bad relay door switch will hinder your oven from operating.

If your oven has internal fuses, a wiring or component problem could have caused a fuse to blow. A blown fuse is an indication that a component has shorted or failed, and the problem will need to be corrected. Most ovens that use fuses will have an indication of the circuits that are affected by a particular fuse. If an oven fuse has blown, then you should inspect the oven element and the associated wiring to determine the cause before replacing the fuse.

THINGS TO CHECK:

the broil element
is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.

If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms


The bake element
is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.

Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms

It is common to have the broil element pulse on or they will send 120 volts to the broil element to even the heat in the oven. Some ovens have a preheat function that will power the broil and bake simultaneously until the oven reaches temperature then the broil element will shut down. If they both stay on red continuously through the entire bake process then something is wrong. Probably a stuck contact on the control.

your heater element went (the metal rod that heats up inside oven). can easily find replacement and not hard to do but make sure you shut off power/ unplug oven. usually a couple of screws where the element goes into back of oven to hold it in place. then can pull element out enough to see the screws that attatch the wires the the element. most appliance repair shops carry them in stock. may be easier to take old one in to match up then trying to locate the make model and seriel number you would need wuthout it.

time for a new element

A common problem is the heating element goes bad. I have had this happen and you can see a spot on the heating element which looks different from the rest of the element (a clue).

Many ovens have two heating elements. Upper and lower. Now I am no Julia Child, but I think bake turns on just the lower heating element? And broil turns on just the top heating element????

So I suppose you might have it on bake and it is not working. Might try broil and see if that works. If yes, then you are getting power through all the controls to the upper heating element, so good chance just the lower heating element is bad.

If you don't get heat to either the upper or lower heating element, then I would suspect the wiring or a control.

So far as the heating element, you should be able to remove it and using an ohm meter, get some sort of reading if it is good (I have no idea what though). Or open circuit if bad.

Also the insulation on older ranges can "melt" back exposing live wires! This is of course very dangerous and the wiring should only be replaced with high heat range wiring which I assume you could get at an appliance store?

Or the contacts on a control/switch could be bad. I would test this with a continuity tester or ohm meter.

Many appliances have a wiring diagram down low somewhere. Or might find it online.

if lower element tests open with continuity meter then it for sure is bad. i would also check the wire ends that connect to the element and/or the control board, they could have loosened allowing a bad connection and low voltage to elementor burnt off.. most ovens do not use the broil element at all during the bake cycle, only during the broil cycle.. some however do utilize the broil element during baking, but at a lower wattage or something..
best of luck,
ttfn

Bake- Normal convection- both upper and lower heating elements.

Conv. Bake- Semi-forced convection- both upper and lower elements, heat is then distributed throughout the oven via the fan.

Broil- radiation- The heat is radiated by the ifrared broil element.

Broil & Fan- Radiation and Ventilation- The radiated heat from the infra-red broiling element is distributed throughout the oven via the fan.