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There is no start capacitor, but there is a RUN capacitor. More than likely it will be a 'combination' run capacitor that shares the common terminal of a dual capacitor with a higher mfd side for the compressor. Typically a 35/5 or 40/5 rating is what you'll see on the side of the capacitor. It will be grey in color, possibly round or oval and near the size of a soda can.
What you are describing is a motor trying to start without the aid of its run capacitor, which momentarily allows a bit more amperage flow through the start winding than it does once the motor starts. This is what 'charges' the run capacitor, so turn off the power, note the position and terminals the wires are on, remove them with insulated pliers and short across ALL terminals to drain the potential charge before touching the spade clips with your bare fingers. Remove the capacitor and read the rating on the side for replacement. Contact just about any local HVAC company for a replacement or go to WWGrainger's website and see if you can buy one retail from them.
The three terminals will be marked 'C' for common, 'Herm' for compressor and 'F' or 'Fan' for the condensor fan. If you get any wire in the wrong place, you could potentially damage the compressor or the fan motor.
Replace the fan motor and capacitor. If you want to go the cheaper route, change the capacitor first and try to run the unit. The cap. is what gets the fan motor running on start up. Another way to test it is to manually turn the fan bade and while it's still turning, make sure your hands are clear of the blades and turn the condensor on. If the fan runs normally, then it's your fan capacitor.
Dear friend, without knowing exact problem changing parts is not advisable. With your statement I could understand that condenser coil full of dirty- clean it. And then check capacitor for compressor by reading amps. If amps gradually increase capacitor to be replaced. And also wiring for not short circuited.
You air handler and condensor run off of two seperate circuit breakers. They share the same control voltage source. With the air handler responding to the thermostat setting, we know you have control voltage. You either have a problem with the line voltage at your condensor or something is happening in the control. Check your circuit breakers and/or fuses to your outdoor unit. Also, look for a red button near the area where the refrigeration pipes enter your condensing unit. Push the red button. If it starts to run, your unit went out on High Head Pressure. A dirty air filter this time of year can cause head pressure problems in the heat cycle (assuming this is a heat pump). Also check for cleanliness of the condensor coil and ensure proper operation of the outdoor fan motor.
There are a couple of components inside the condensor that could prevent it from running. One is the contactor. If the contacts are pitted or if a bug crawled in between them, it will prevent the unit from running. Another component is the Dual Run Capacitor. If this fails, it could prevent operation of your outdoor fan and compressor. Don't forget to check all your wires and connections. Always shut off all power prior to reaching into the electrical compartment.
I hope you find this to be very helpful moving forward. :-) Testing Run Capacitors
Yes , motor is bad . May not start , next time cuts off . The fan in the back by the compressor , is called the condensor fan motor . I would suggest cleaning the coils in front at the bottom , of dust , lint , pet hair , etc , before replaceing the fan motor . Also , clean the fan blade before reinstalling the motor .
the wire diagram should tell you how. it all depends where wires lead to. be very carefull, capacitors can be dangerous. brown usaully go to fan black usaully goes to common red usaully goes to herm or compressor. it all depends where wires come from
I am assuming this is a split system with the condensor outside and the air handler inside. What is the model of your unit? Is the capacitor a dual run capacitor? Is the compressor running? If the compressor is running and your condensor fan is not you need to immediately shut power off to the compressor or you will probably ruin your compressor. If the power went off due to a storm and you don't have power to the condensor fan did you check to see if the circuit breaker to the condensor was tripped. I would check that first. Even if the circuit breaker doesn't look like it tripped go ahead and flip it off and back on again. Even you suspect it is the capacitor you need to determine if it is a dual run (controls the compressor and the fan) or does it just run the fan? If it is a dual run capacitor you will have to get the numbers off the capacitor and try and find a match at the local hvac supplier. If you have a Grainger's in your city they probably will have a match. When working on your unit don't forget you are working with high voltage that can KILL you, If you don't know what you are doing call in a professional. If you decide to tackle it yourself make sure you turn off the power to both the inside unit and the condenser. I always pull the disconnects inside and outside, flip the circuit breakers and turn off the thermostat just to be safe. Then I double check by using my digital multi-meter to ensure the power is totally off. The capacitor stores power so you will have to discharge it by using an INSULATED screw driver and touching the blade across the terminals. Discharge the capacitor AFTER THE POWER IS SHUTOFF. Before you pull the wires off the capacitor terminals I suggest you make a drawing of where the wires are connected. You should have markings with a "C", "F" and "Herm". Even better, I like to take several digital pictures from different angles of the connections. After you remove the capacitor, I would suggest you take it with you to your hvac parts supplier so they can match it. Once you get the right replacement capacitor it is just a matter of connecting the wires back to the original configuration. Then restore the power by flipping the breakers, plugging the disconnects back in and turning the thermostat back on. Most units will not start up right away. They have a 5 minute delay built in to protect the compressor. Good luck and post back and let us know how it goes.