I need to know how to open the top lid so I can clean.

could just need a good clean. these machines remove dirt from clothes very well, but it can build up on the inside of the outer. disconnect power, remove top (two screws under covers under lid), remove top bowl ring (8 clips) remove agitator (1 screw deep inside) remove inner bowl. scrub it. also trying a hot wash with some cleaning product to flush the machine every couple months can stop this happening in the future.

Check your lid switch. This is the most common cause of the symptoms you have described. Symptoms include, filling and stopping on the intial fill cycle, wash tub will not drain and/or the washer will still agitate in some cases, but will stop right after the wash cycle and fail to advance to rinse or spin cycles.

The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3557193-replacing_a_lid_switch

On some models, the lid switch is located under the top casing by one of the lid hinges. You will know if you if you have this type of switch, because It does not have a lid strike and the small hole on the right hand side of the wash tub will not be present. This switch is actuated (toggled) by a rod on the lid hinge. With this type of switch, if you locate it and it can be toggled by hand, you may only need to adjust the actuator by bending it slightly.

A replacement lid switch (if required) can be purchased at any of the following web sites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The average price is about $20 - $30 if you perform the repair yourself. Prices differ between sites so shop and compare.

If you have questions, need additional assistance, please post back with your MODEL NUMBER (located on a nameplate along the wash tub rim under the lid) and let me know. Save the service call, this is a very simple repair that you can perform yourself. I hope this helps you.

Lid switch. Check with an ohmeter for continuity. For fre video instructions goto www.appliancehelponline.com/servicemanual.html

Check your lid switch. Symptoms may include, no spinning, no agitation, stopping at the rinse cycle and no draining. The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3557193-replacing_a_lid_switch

On some models, the lid switch is located under the top casing by one of the lid hinges. You will know if you if you have this type of switch, because It does not have a lid strike and the small hole on the right hand side of the wash tub will not be present. This switch is actuated (toggled) by a rod on the lid hinge. With this type of switch, if you locate it and it can be toggled by hand, you may only need to adjust the actuator by bending it slightly.

A replacement lid switch (if required) can be purchased at any of the following web sites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

If the model number is correct, the part number for a replacement switch is 8054980. The average price is about $20 - $30. Prices differ between these sites, so shop and compare.

If the suggestions I have listed do not match your washer symptoms, please post back and elaborate more on what the washer is/is not doing so I can provide you with better assistance. Please include your model number (located on a nameplate along the wash tub rim under the lid) if its different than the one you listed the question under so that I may be able to assist you better. I hope this information is helpful to you.

NOTE: You do not have to drain the wash tub to perform this repair.

Check your lid switch. If the washer fills and agitates, but stops at the rinse cycle, or, if the washer fills, then stops and will NOT drain, this is a common symptom of a lid switch malfunction. The following link explains how to access and/or replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch

The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug.

On some models, the lid switch is located under the top casing by one of the lid hinges. You will know if you if you have this type of switch, because It does not have a lid strike and the small hole on the right hand side of the wash tub will not be present. This switch is actuated (toggled) by a rod on the lid hinge. With this type of switch, if you locate it and it can be toggled by hand, you may only need to adjust the actuator by bending it slightly.

A replacement lid switch (if required) can be purchased at any of the following web sites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The part number for the model you have listed is 3949247. The average price is about $25 - $35. Prices differ between these sites, so shop around for the best price.

This is a very simple repair, but if you have questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

A washer that fills and doesn't do anything, or stops right after the wash cycle and then does not advance to the rinse cycle and drain is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction. The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch

If the switch requires replacement, a new one can be purchased on line at searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, repairclinic.com, appliancepartspros.com. Just use your model number as your search criteria. All these sites offer competitive pricing, so shop all them for the best price.

If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

The washer stopping right after the wash cycle and then not advancing to the rinse cycle is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction. The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch

If the switch requires replacement, a new one can be purchased on line at searspartsdirect.com, repairclinic.com or appliancepartspros.com. Just use your model number as your search criteria. All three sites offer competitive pricing, so shop all three for the best price. If you still need assistance, please contact me and let me know. If my diagnosis is not correct, please post back and elaborate a bit more so I can assist you further. If your washer is not configured this way, or if you still have questions, please let me know.

This problem is commonly attributed to a lid switch malfunction. I will need a more accurate model number to confirm (located under the washer lid along the tub rim). "110" is only the beginning prefix of the model number, which identifies the manufacturer. I will need the remaining numbers to determine how the washer is configured.

The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug.

A replacement lid switch can be purchased on line at searspartsdirect.com, repairclinic.com or appliancepartspros.com. All three sites offer competitive pricing, so shop all three for the best price. For instructions on how to replace a lid switch, you can refer to my profile and look under my "Tips and Tricks" for links for Replacing a Lid Switch. If you still need assistance, please contact me and let me know. PS If the lid switch IS defective and you need instructions on how to by-pass it in order to drain the wash tub, let me know. In addition, if my diagnosis is not correct, please post back and elaborate a bit more so I can assist you further.

This is a common symptom of a lid switch malfunction. If the model number you have this listed under is correct, the lid switch is mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If your washer is not configured in this manner, please post back with your COMPLETE model number (located along the tub rim under the lid) so I can confirm how your washer IS configured.

A replacement lid switch can be purchased on line at searspartsdirect.com, repairclinic.com or appliancepartspros.com. All three sites offer competitive pricing, so shop all three for the best price. For instructions on how to replace a lid switch, you can refer to my profile and look under my "Tips and Tricks" for links for Replacing a Lid Switch. If you still need assistance, please contact me and let me know. PS If the lid switch IS defective and you need instructions on how to by-pass it in order to drain the wash tub, let me know. In addition, if my diagnosis is not correct, please post back and elaborate a bit more so I can assist you further.

This problem is commonly attributed to a lid switch malfunction. If the model number you have this listed under is correct, the lid switch is mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If your washer is not configured in this manner, please post back with your COMPLETE model number (located along the tub rim under the lid) so I can confirm how your washer IS configured.

If you determine that your lid switch is broken, the following link will give you the necessary steps to replace it: http://www.fixya.com/support/r397101-replacing_lid_switch You can order a replacement switch on line at searspartsdirect.com. Just type in your model number and look for item 9 under the "Top and Cabinet" heading. The lid strike is listed as item 20. NOTE: Another thing that can cause lid switch malfunctions, is the lid being bowed. This can occur from placing heavy items (such as detergent bottles and clothes baskets) on top of the washer. If you have questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know before you rate the solution. I hope this helps you.