Question about Hayward SAND FILTER, PRO SERIES

1 Answer

Installing multiport valve.

Leaking around flange. Clamp is on and O ring is in place. Should the o ring squeeze out where the clamps halve. what is the best way to install

Posted by on

1 Answer

  • Level 2:

    An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points

    MVP:

    An expert that gotĀ 5 achievements.

    Governor:

    An expert whose answer gotĀ voted for 20 times.

    Scholar:

    An expert who has written 20 answers of more than 400 characters.

  • Expert
  • 78 Answers

No, the o ring should not squeeze out. When putting the top and bottom components together....

  1. Make sure surfaces are clean...No lube!!!
  2. Make sure o ring is clear
  3. Install o ring usually on lower half but depends on model
  4. Gently place upper half on lower
  5. Place clamp around the halves (this can be tricky)
  6. If there is a tension spring with the clemps, do not use it yet
  7. Without the spring, insert bolt and start tightening the clamp
  8. The halves should slowly come together
  9. Make sure the halves and band are aligned
  10. Once the top is on the bottom fairly secure, loosen the clamp and re-tighten with the spring this time till the spring is compressed with no gap between the colis on the spring. If you have two tightening clamps, do this at equal intervals.
I dont know the exact model you have, but this is a standard procedure... Good luck..

Posted on Jul 12, 2010

1 Suggested Answer

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

I need the outer flange/blade clamp for my Skil model 77 type 15


This sounds like a worm drive. Try going to this web site to order your part.
http://www.ereplacementparts.com/skil-shd77-f012sd7700-worm-drive-skilsaw-parts-c-130_160_7479.html
This is the part for the blade clamp washer $5
Blade Clamp Washer
This is the flanged plain washer $4
Blade Clamp Washer
and retaining ring $4
Retaining Ring 2610341359 for Power Tool eReplacement Parts

Dec 03, 2014 | Skil Saws

1 Answer

Seal on top will not let cap close


Not sure what you mean??
A little more detailed information, even if you don't know proper terminology, some greater description will allow us (someone on this forum) to assist you.
If you have a filter similar to the picture of the one above that accompanied this post, then there is NO cap! There is no cap that you can open or close. Can't tell for sure what it is you are referring to when you say "pressure cap"?
Then you mention something about the Clamp?

I will take a stab...
Did you just remove the " MultiPort - Dial Valve" from the top of the filter? And now you are trying to reinstall it?
And is it that you can not get the valve to go all the way down onto the filter tank? And the two flanges: the one on the valve is not meeting the one on the tank? And the "Clamp" just can't grab both of the flanges to tighten the valve to the tank?
Is this your problem?
If so:
You have a problem!!!
The plastic "Stand Pipe" from the bottom Lateral Assembly is sitting "Too High" and the valve has bottomed out on top of the stand pipe.
Thus not allowing the valve to go down any more, leaving the gap you just can't close.
What may have happened: when adding the sand to the tank, the following bags after the 1st, allowed the lateral assembly to rise and instead of sitting on the bottom of the plastic tank, it is now sitting on some sand, raising it? Even an Inch or so, will now create a situation where the Multiport filter valve will be too high and not allow the Sand Filter Multiport valve to seat properly.

Fix = Remove the sand and start all over again.
Remember: Very Important:
  • Add water to the tank "First", just above the individual laterals
  • Place a cup or tape or something/anything covering the opening in the stand pipe, so NO sand gets into the lateral assembly!
After the 1st 1/4 of the 1st bag is poured, stop and adjust the pipe - "BUT NOT LIFTING IT", to be centered with the hole.

Good Luck

Oct 26, 2014 | Hayward SAND FILTER, PRO SERIES

2 Answers

Radiator fluid


The wide, metal ring around the end of the hose is called a hose clamp. There are many variations of these clamps - but any type will do the job - some are easier to tighten than others (but it is best to replace with the same type whenever possible). Below is a representation of several types.
ebb25263-aff5-4647-8828-343a16f32e64.jpg
If the clamp is broken, it must be replaced. The hose needs to be pushed over the stub (the part that you referred to as "drilled into the engine"). It may slip on easier if wet or sprayed with soapy water. Once the hose is fully seated, squeeze the two tabs of the clamp with a pair of pliers - and while squeezing - slip the entire clamp down the hose towards the end so that the clamp will secure the hose to the stub out of the engine. A properly installed clamp on a hose would look similar to this:
afd5b2aa-d993-4313-9fa2-ee5b15061d42.jpgOnce installed, top off the fluid / refill. While allowing the engine to reach normal operating temperature in park, check for evidence of a leaks or bulging in the hose before driving off. Adjust / tighten clamp as needed to stop the leak once cooled. Bulging hoses indicate that a failure could happen at anytime and should be replaced at once.
I hope this helps & good luck!

May 29, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How do I change the Bellow seal?


You really don't want to know, but since you asked......... Remove spring clamp around front of seal by prying under it and peeling it off. The easy part is now done. Peel away seal and stuff it inside drum. Look or feel for screw on clamp around seal thats still attached and loosen clamp screw. Peel seal off and remove. Wipe away any crud on flange. Install new seal starting at the top. Make sure top and bottom of it are perfectly centered. Push seal onto flange all the way around, feeling your way around. Once on and its centered properly reinstall clamp and tighten. If its the flat metal type of clamp do not overtighten or it may come off in wash cycle. Install outer seal to front and reinstall clamp by putting spring on first, wrapping rest of clamp around as much as you can, then holding one end of spring ( I use my knee or you can use small screwdriver) and using needle nose pliers grab other end of spring and stretch it while putting rest of clamp on. Have fun!

Sep 26, 2011 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

1 Answer

I need to change a radiator clamp because its leaking


Unscrew or squeeze the old clamp and move it down the hose. Then, slide the hose off the radiator, slide out the old clamp off the hose, slide on the new clamp down the hose, replace the hose onto the radiator, slide the new clamp back to where the old clamp was located, tighten it down in place and refill whatever coolant leaked out during the process. Done.

Feb 15, 2011 | 1995 Jeep Cherokee

1 Answer

How do you change the fuel pump?


How to Change the Fuel Pump on a 1998 Taurus


Instructions Things You'll Need:

  • Siphon kit
  • Gas can
  • Jack
  • Jack stands
  • Screwdriver
  • Block of wood
  • Brass punch or wood rod
  • Wrench
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Torx wrench
  • Carburetor cleaner spray
  • Acetone or lacquer thinner
  • Clean rags
  • Heavy grease
  • O-ring
    Preparation
  1. Siphon as much fuel out of the tank as possible with a vacuum pump and deposit it into a gas can.
  2. Unplug the fuel pump inertia switch located behind the trim panel on the right side of the trunk. Start the engine and wait for it to stall.
  3. Disconnect the negative battery cable in the engine compartment. Loosen the clamp nut for the battery's black cable with a wrench and remove the cable from the battery terminal.
  4. Raise the car with its own floor jack and support it on jack stands, available from any auto parts store. Support the car on its rear end where the fuel cap and tank are located.
  5. Removing the Tank
  6. Open the gas cap door and remove the three bolts on the metal flange surrounding the filler neck (the pipe that you pump gasoline into) with a wrench.
  7. Disconnect any metal braces between the filler tube and the car body and supporting the tube. Remove their bolts or screws with a wrench/screwdriver.

  8. Disconnect the fuel and vapor line clamps with a screwdriver, then disconnect the fuel pump electrical connector and the connector to the emission shutoff valve.
  9. Raise a floor jack under the fuel tank under the right rear corner of the car near the fuel cap. Place a block of wood large enough to cover the entire top part of the jack to protect the tank.
  10. Unbolt the tank's support straps twrapped around the bottom of the tank with a wrench. Disconnect any other fuel lines and electrical connectors remaining on the top of the tank; press on their quick-connect fittings.
  11. Removing the Pump
  12. Tap the fuel pump assembly's locking ring counterclockwise with a wood rod or brass punch until it loosens.
  13. Lift the long, curved fuel pump module out of the tank until you can reach its locking tabs, then squeeze the tabs together with your fingers and remove the fuel pump module from the tank. Pull off and discard the lock ring gasket from the top of the module.
  14. Separate the fuel pump from the assembly by removing its clamp with pliers, disconnecting its electrical connector with pliers and removing its mounting screws. Use a Torx wrench to remove the screws.
  15. Clean the fuel pump's mounting flange, tank mounting surface and seal ring groove with acetone or lacquer thinner and a clean rag.
  16. Detach the strainer from the assembly by removing its C-clip with a small flat screwdriver. Wash the strainer with carburetor cleaner spray and reconnect it to the assembly. Clip the C-clip in place by hand.
  17. Installation
  18. Mount the replacement fuel pump in place on the module using its mounting screws and the Torx wrench, then plug in the electrical connector and connect the clamp by hand.
  19. Align the fuel pump assembly with the retainer within the tank and push it into the retainer with your hands until the tabs click into place.
  20. Install the pump assembly's sender plate by hand. Make sure the locating keys are in the keyways and the O-ring is in place.
  21. Install a new seal ring on the fuel pump module by pushing it in place on the locking ring's underside; rub heavy grease on the seal ring to hold it in place. Insert the module into the hole in the tank and turn the locking ring clockwise to lock it in place.
  22. Connect the fuel tank to the car in the reverse order of removal--raise it back into position with the floor jack, connect the fuel lines and electrical connectors strap it in place with the straps.
  23. Lower the car and reconnect the battery cable. Connect the fuel pump inertia switch and press its reset button to energize the pump

Jan 07, 2011 | 1998 Ford Taurus

1 Answer

I have a leak on one of my cooling lines that go into the fire wall of my saturn sl1 and i can see the leak its where the line conecets to the heater core i would think i havent seen a line like this...


Are you sure it's not a squeeze clamp? Most likely it is not leaking from the clamp. Either the hose has a whole right next to the clamped area or the heater core is leaking.

Jan 03, 2011 | 2000 Saturn SL

1 Answer

Changed sand now the multiport valve is leaking at very top?


Is it leaking at the joint between the tank and valve, between the two halves of the valve, or from the center of the valve (around the handle)? If It's either of the first two, you may need to replace the o-ring. Take it apart, and check to make sure the o-ring is in good shape, and seated properly. If the o-ring is flat, oblong, or leaving black on your hands, then you should replace it. If it is leaking around the center of the handle, then you need to replace the o-ring and/or teflon seal on the shaft of the stem assembly (the part the handle connects to. To get to this you need remove the top half the valve, then drive out the pin that holds the handle on. (make a not with direction the handle and the stem are. otherwise you can be 180 degrees of when you put it back together. Hope this helps. If you need further assistance post a reply in the comments, and don't hesitate to leave a good thumb rating if you found this helpful. Thanks, and good Luck!

Oct 03, 2010 | Hayward SAND FILTER, PRO SERIES

1 Answer

Is it easy to replace the thermostat on celica 94''GT


Yes, Drain the cooling system to a level that is lower then the lower rad hose and where it meets the engine at the thermostat housing. Disconnect the cooling fan switch at the housing and squeeze the hose clamp flanges together to remove the radiator hose from the housing.Then remove the retianing nuts from the housing cover. Once removed note the position of the air bleed valve of the old thermostat while in the housing (bleed valve hole is normally on the top /facing up) Pull out thermostat and gasket. Note that the rubber gasket fits over/around the edge of the thermostat. Replace with new thermostat and gasket making sure the air bleed valve is in same position as previous and spring end is directed into the engine. Install the cover and bolts and tighten/torque accordingly. Reattach the hose to fitting and tighten hose clamp and reconnect cooling fan connector to end. Restart engine and allow to warm up sufficiently and check for leaks and heat in cabin compartment. Done. good luck.

Jun 23, 2010 | 1994 Toyota Celica

1 Answer

Leaking after installing a new top mount multiport valve SP0714T


There should be a rubber "O" ring in there. Check for that

Jun 11, 2010 | Hayward SAND FILTER, PRO SERIES

Not finding what you are looking for?
Hayward SAND FILTER, PRO SERIES Logo

369 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Hayward Pool & Spa Experts

Jay Finke
Jay Finke

Level 3 Expert

1338 Answers

Bill Jordan

Level 2 Expert

372 Answers

john h

Level 3 Expert

11057 Answers

Are you a Hayward Pool and Spa Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...