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Clothes don't dry completely

Timer goes to the end and clothes aren't dry. Do i need a timer or a dryness control board?

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Check your breaker. An electric dryer works on 220 volts, which is two 110 volts put together, but on separate lines. Those breakers have to be separated all the way from the transformer. So, if you have one breaker for the dryer, you will be okay, usually on a double pole, double throw breaker. Sometimes they are wired into two different breakers. The motor is on one breaker, and the heating element is on the other breaker. So, if they aren't on a breaker that is made as a double unit, the heating element can trip one breaker, and since they aren't made together as a unit where it will shut the whole dryer down, the motor in the dryer will still run, and the drum will still turn. It just won't dry clothes. Now, if you have made sure your power is ok, which i have no way of knowing if you just moved there, you had the dryer working in that spot for fifteen years, or what. So, if you have had it there for a while and it runs and it does not dry, and the breakers aren't tripped, then you need a new heating coil in the dryer. They burn out, just like toasters go bad, they work on the same principle. It is not that hard to replace one, just look at how the old one is before you remove it, and install the new one in the same way.

Posted on Jul 11, 2010

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Ain't no moisture sensor. This is is not an electronic sensing machine. It uses another method to determine dryness. An orange wire connects to the base of the heating element. The timer motor is driven by power from it in auto dry. The timer motor is VERY slow. Slower than most dryer timer motors.As the clothes get dryer the heat is not needed so the element is turned off by the control thermostat which is mounted next to the skinny white fuse on the blower housing. This allows for the turtle like motor on the timer to advance. Once the clothes get to the point of dryness the heater stays off way longer and the timer motor advances on over to the cool down and carry on over to the end of cycle. So the clothes won't always be dry due to factors like lint buildup in the blower housing, venting to outside and so forth. having said that my mom bought a brand new Kenmore dryer and I set it on 55 minutes timed drying. At the end of that them clothes is still damp. I then set it to auto dry high heat and that usually gets em dry. I think the main probo with this dryer is the thermostat ain't set as high as older models to keep the heat at a moderate temp so that the limits won't blow on models in apts and such. Just a theory.

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Dryers have 2 basic types: AUTODRY and Electronic. The electronic moisture control relies on 2 bars inside the dryer. As wet clothes rub these bars the wetness discharges the capacitor on the moisture control board. As long as the cap don't get a full charge the timer motor will not advance forward to the end of cycle. What goes wrong on these? Wax buildup on moisture bars form a barrier that keeps wetness off them bars. The control thinks them clothes is dry and shuts her down. On autodry the timer motor advances very slowly, The motor does not work while the heating element is on. Only when the heating element is off does the timer motor advance. As them clothes gets dryer the temp inside the dryer stays warmer and therefore the dryer thermostat keeps the heater off long and the timer motor advances. Like being on a highway with traffic jam you go a little bit then stop then go a little bit more then stop. Finally you get there. So what goes wrong? The control thermostat is not functioning properly causing the heater limit to do all the work . Instead the heater limit has to do the work and it ain't a real happy camper. Makes them clothes get too hot. They come out wrinkled.

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My kenmore 110.66512694 is not drying and is not turning off automatically, i have to turn it off myself or it will run forever.


Their are 2 types of dryers. Electronic dryness sensing style and Autodry style. Yours is Autodry.
Electronic dryers have a dryness board which relies on info from moisture sensing bars that the wet clothes rub against. AutoDry models like yours alternates the power between the heating element and the timer motor. This is what you heating assembly looks like:
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themobilian_2118.jpg
Check all the components on the heating assembly for continuity.
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I have a service manual and more HERE

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I have a Whirlpool Gas Dryer LGR6646BI-12 the clothes feel warm but not hot and they are still damp


The Dryness Level allows adjustment of how damp or dry the clothes are at the end of the cycle.
  1. Make sure the correct Cycle has been selected for the type of fabric being dried.
  2. If the correct cycle is selected and the clothes are still coming out too damp, use the Auto Dry Level button (Kenmore) or Dryness Level button to increase the Dryness level.

  1. If the highest Dryness Level setting was selected and the clothes are still damp, the Customer Focused Drying Mode settings that are built into the machine can be adjusted.
Dryers come from the factory set to Drying Mode 1 (default). Drying Modes 2 and 3, include additional drying time.
Note: This change will affect ALL Auto Dry cycles.
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  1. To select drying modes, momentarily press the Auto Dry Level button (Kenmore) or Dryness Level button (Whirlpool) again. The dryer will beep, and the display will flash and show the next drying mode number.
  1. With the door open and the display flashing the desired drying mode number, press the Start button to save the drying mode and exit diagnostics.
  1. Press the Pause/Cancel key at any time to cancel changes and exit from this mode.
Hope this works............

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Dryers - My Timer is not Advancing


You must have a dryness sensor similar to this9a2ef08.jpg Wet clothes rub the sensor and this chff9524f.jpganges the resistance of the sensor. The dryness board sends power to the motor to move the timer towards the end when no more dampness is detected. 2 things you can do before buying any parts is clean the sensor and yank out the little board next to the timer,clean the contacts and get rid of the corrosion. If you do not have a control board then you need to replace the heating element control klixonc21ad26.jpg

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