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There is a jumper between the input and output terminals on the temperature control switch for tunnel heat what are they called!

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They are mostly called Thermostate or Heat Sensor

Posted on Jul 11, 2010

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Where is the body control module located on 2002 cadillac deville


The body control system consists of the following 3 modules:
• The Dash Integration Module (DIM)
• The Instrument Panel Module (IPM)
• The Rear Integration Module (RIM)
Each of the 3 body control modules integrate a number of functional systems under the control of a single module. Each module is connected to the Class 2 serial data circuit, many of the control functions are implemented by Class 2 messages.

What system (S) are you having problems with ?
Rear Integration Module (RIM)
The various RIM inputs and outputs are described in the corresponding functional areas as indicated on the RIM electrical schematics.
The RIM functions include the following:
• Automatic level control
• CIGAR relay control
• Class 2 communication requiring RIM interaction
• Content theft deterrent
• Fuel door control
• Fuel level sensor input
• Heated seat control
• HVAC blower control
• LK/CYL relay control
• Park brake relay control
• Rear defog relay control
• Rear park assist chime control
• Retained accessory power (RAP) relay control
• Reverse relay control
• Transmission shift inhibit
• Trunk release relay control
• Various controls for the interior lamps

Instrument Panel Integration Module (IPM)
The various IPM input and output circuits are described in the corresponding areas as indicated on the IPM electrical schematics.
The IPM functions include the following:
• 54 volt VF display input
• Ambient light sensor input
• Class 2 communication requiring IPM interaction
• Fog lamp switch inputs
• Front HVAC air delivery controls
• Front HVAC sensor inputs
• Front HVAC temperature controls
• Fuel door and rear compartment lid release switch input
• Hazard switch input
• HUD active control
• Instrument panel lamps dimmer switch input
• Ignition switch headlight control
• Interior lamps switch input
• Key in ignition switch input
• Traction control switch input
• Twilight sentinel delay input

Dash Integration Module (DIM)
The various DIM input and output circuits are described in the corresponding functional areas as indicated on the DIM electrical schematics.
The DIM functions include the following:
• Class 2 communication requiring DIM interaction.
• Control of exterior lamps.
• Control of front fog lights.
• Control of the headlights.
• Headlamps on with wiper input.
• Hood ajar switch input w/export.
• Horn relay control.
• Interior lamps incandescent dimming.
• Low side temperature for HVAC compressor.
• Power moding control over Class 2 serial data circuit.
• Reverse lockout solenoid control.
• Steering wheel controls input.
• Storage of the clock settings and, sending a message out on the class 2 serial data circuit in response to requests from other modules.

Jun 19, 2017 | Cadillac Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Oven igniter doesn't work


called a spark igniter


Surface burners
are typically either a coil type, solid type or a ribbon coil as used in smooth top ranges. All of these consist of a heating wire that uses electric current to produce heat. Coil type elements can be checked for continuity by removing them from the terminal block and testing them with a multi-meter.

You should also inspect the terminal ends for signs of heat damage or corrosion, and if present, you should replace the terminal block or receptacle at the same time. You will need to remove power from the range to change the terminal block. Solid elements and smooth top elements require raising or removing the main top to gain access. You will need to remove power from the range before lifting the main top. Continuity can then be checked with a multi-meter, once you have removed the wires from the element terminals.

On modern electronic control ranges, the oven temperature sensor
is the part that regulates the oven temperature. If it is not working properly it could be the reason why the range or oven won't start. This part can be found inside the oven on the rear wall near the top. Most modern ovens will display a fault code if the oven sensor is at fault. If you think the sensor may be the issue you can check the resistance with a multi-meter but will need to know the correct resistance of the sensor at room temperature. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test.

The infinite switch
on the control panel controls the power to each surface element. If you have no heat at an element and the element and terminal block check ok, then you may have a defective infinite switch. Disconnect power to the range and remove the console back panel. Locate the switch and check for overheated wires or faulty terminals first. Test the switch's contacts for continuity with a multi-meter. If defective, replace the switch.
If the infinite switch does not appear to be defective, then you should check for proper voltage to the switch. This is a live high voltage test and should only be performed by qualified persons.

Most modern ovens use an electronic control board
to control the oven functions. These models will use the control board to operate the oven safety valve on a gas range or oven, and the bake and broil elements on an electric range or oven. If there is no power to the igniter circuit, or the element circuits, then you should check the control board to verify that there is power at the appropriate output relay. These are live voltage checks and should be performed by qualified persons only. If there is no output voltage then the control should be replaced.

The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.

Apr 05, 2014 | Kenmore Ovens

1 Answer

Direct spark ignition wont fire on bake or broil


Surface burners
are typically either a coil type, solid type or a ribbon coil as used in smooth top ranges. All of these consist of a heating wire that uses electric current to produce heat. Coil type elements can be checked for continuity by removing them from the terminal block and testing them with a multi-meter.

You should also inspect the terminal ends for signs of heat damage or corrosion, and if present, you should replace the terminal block or receptacle at the same time. You will need to remove power from the range to change the terminal block. Solid elements and smooth top elements require raising or removing the main top to gain access. You will need to remove power from the range before lifting the main top. Continuity can then be checked with a multi-meter, once you have removed the wires from the element terminals.

On modern electronic control ranges, the oven temperature sensor
is the part that regulates the oven temperature. If it is not working properly it could be the reason why the range or oven won't start. This part can be found inside the oven on the rear wall near the top. Most modern ovens will display a fault code if the oven sensor is at fault. If you think the sensor may be the issue you can check the resistance with a multi-meter but will need to know the correct resistance of the sensor at room temperature. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test.

The infinite switch
on the control panel controls the power to each surface element. If you have no heat at an element and the element and terminal block check ok, then you may have a defective infinite switch. Disconnect power to the range and remove the console back panel. Locate the switch and check for overheated wires or faulty terminals first. Test the switch's contacts for continuity with a multi-meter. If defective, replace the switch.
If the infinite switch does not appear to be defective, then you should check for proper voltage to the switch. This is a live high voltage test and should only be performed by qualified persons.

Most modern ovens use an electronic control board
to control the oven functions. These models will use the control board to operate the oven safety valve on a gas range or oven, and the bake and broil elements on an electric range or oven. If there is no power to the igniter circuit, or the element circuits, then you should check the control board to verify that there is power at the appropriate output relay. These are live voltage checks and should be performed by qualified persons only. If there is no output voltage then the control should be replaced.

The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.

The infinite switch
on the control panel controls the power to each surface element. If you have no heat at an element and the element and terminal block check ok, then you may have a defective infinite switch. Disconnect power to the range and remove the console back panel. Locate the switch and check for overheated wires or faulty terminals first. Test the switch's contacts for continuity with a multi-meter. If defective, replace the switch.
If the infinite switch does not appear to be defective, then you should check for proper voltage to the switch. This is a live high voltage test and should only be performed by qualified persons.

Apr 05, 2014 | Kenmore 40494 / 40495 / 40499 Electric...

1 Answer

Air conditioning thermostat not functioning


ab302475-b998-41c7-9c7c-4e106b68e0be.pngGo to your thermostat and look at the FAN switch, it will be in the AUTO position typically.
Set the FAN switch to the ON setting,
by doing this if the fan motor operates you know that the High voltage & the low voltage (24 volt control power) are present.
This saves you from having to go to the breaker panel and checking / resetting the breaker as well as checking the Transformer and automotive type 3 amp control circuit fuse (generally on the circuit board).

If you do not get any fan operation by switching the fan switch to the ON setting, you then will have to determine if the breaker, transformer and aforementioned 3 amp fuse are all good.

You will need a volt meter to test further.
At the thermostat remove the cover thus exposing the thermostats sub base and assorted circuits/wiring.

RED or R
Red is the 24 volt "hot leg" of 24 volt power which originates at the transformer. Red enters the thermostat on the Red or R terminal, some thermostats will have an RC and an RH terminal, these are jumpered together on single transformer systems as they are for Red Cool and Red Heat, without a jumper wire on RC and RH, the Red "hot leg" of the 24 volt control voltage will only energize the terminal its wired to, some stats are battery powered and do not use the transformers 24 volt power (parasitically) to power the thermostat.
If the thermostat is powered by the transformers 24 volt power, there will be a "COMMON" wire on the common terminal of the thermostat, this is the other side of the 24 volt power from the transformer, the side opposite from RED the 24 volt "hot leg"
Common is called common as its the side of power that EVERY
24 volt circuit terminates, or completes its circuit, thus the COMMON designation.
During a Heat call the 24 volt hot leg is sent out via the white/heat terminal to the gas valve etc.
So between terminals Common & White , it should read 24 volts during a call for heat.
Same for Fan which is the Green or G terminal,
Same for Cool which is the Yellow or Y terminal.
If you have no power to these terminals when calling for heat or cool or fan then yes the thermostat is defective and requires replacement.
DO NOT let the RED wire touch ground or the COMMON terminal, this is a direct short and blows the fuse or transformer
if not equipped with fuse protection.

Normally you should read 24 volts between RED and COMMON

Aug 01, 2013 | Goodman CKL36AR36 Air Conditioner

1 Answer

I need help asap 2003 Expedition code p0171 and code p0712 i have and idea of the 1st code but whats the secound code i really need help i dont want to take it to a shop where there going to charge me alot...


P0700 Transmission Control System

P0701 Transmission Control System Range/Performance

P0702 Transmission Control System -Electrical

P0703 Torque Converter/Brake Switch B Circuit

P0704 Clutch Pedal Position Switch -Circuit Malfunction

P0705 Transmission Range Sensor/Switch Circuit Malfunction (PRNDL Input)

P0706 Transmission Range Sensor/Switch Circuit Range/Performance

P0707 Transmission Range Sensor/Switch Circuit Low Input

P0708 Transmission Range Sensor/Switch Circuit High Input

P0709 Transmission Range Sensor/Switch Circuit intermittent

P0710 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit

P0711 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit Range/Performance

P0712 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit Low Input

P0713 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit High Input

P0714 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit Intermittent

P0715 Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit

P0716 input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit Range/Performance

P0717 Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit No Signal

P0718 Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit Intermittent

P0719 Torque Converter/Brake Switch B Circuit Low

P0720 Output Shaft Speed Sensor Circuit

P0721 Output Shaft Speed Sensor Circuit Range/Performance

P0722 Output Shaft Speed Sensor Circuit No Signal

P0723 Output Shaft Speed Sensor Circuit Intermittent

P0724 Torque Converter/Brake Switch B Circuit High

P0725 Engine RPM Input Circuit

P0726 Engine RPM Input Circuit Range/Performance

P0727 Engine RPM Input Circuit No Signal

P0728 Engine RPM Input Circuit Intermittent

P0729 Gear 6 Incorrect Ratio

P0730 Incorrect Gear Ratio

P0731 Gear 1 Incorrect Ratio

P0732 Gear 2 Incorrect Ratio

P0733 Gear 3 Incorrect Ratio

P0734 Gear 4 Incorrect Ratio

P0735 Gear 5 Incorrect Ratio

P0736 Reverse Incorrect Ratio

P0737 TCM Engine Speed Output Circuit

P0738 TCM Engine Speed Output Circuit Low

P0739 TCM Engine Speed Output Circuit High

P0740 Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Circuit

P0741 Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Circuit Performance or Stuck Off

P0742 Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Circuit Stuck On
P0743 Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Circuit Electrical
Now i dont know a lot about automatics especially modern ones with all this fancy electronics thats used nowdays but i think its a fault with the temperature sensor for the gearbox.But where its located and what it looks like i have no idea it could even be mounted inside the gearbox .Sorry not a very good answer from a mechanic but?? very few of our europeon cars come with auto transmission .Evan when i do know whats wrong i cannot buy the parts for the gearbox as only re-con boxes supplied by the dealer so best advice is to try a specialist in auto box repairs only .PS some of my best students when i used to teach mechanics many moons ago were the girls so no excuses like iam only a girl please

Apr 22, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to wire koyo timer kt-v4s-c-d


Koyo kt-v4s-c-d is a 12-24Volt DC pin timer.
Timer mounts in a pin base, and wires are connected to numbered screw terminals on the base.
Timer has 12 pins, and is installed onto 12 pin base.
The base terminals are labeled 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12
The 12-24V DC input voltage connects to terminals 11 and 12, and powers the timer mechanism. Positive to terminal 11, and negative to terminal 12.
The other terminals are dry, and receive no power when input is connected to 11 and 12, except the illustration seems to show the timer will electrically connect terminal 5 and negative charged terminal 12. Use multimeter to check each terminal after power is applied.

COM terminal is 8. Run jumper wire from one of the input terminals to terminal 8. When timer is OFF, then NC terminal 9 has power output. When timer is ON, then NO terminal 10 has output.
Timer functions are set using 8 dip switches.
Copy following link for some illustrations.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-pin-timers.html
Copy following link for timer manual.
http://www.automationdirect.com/static/manuals/koyotimerm/koyotimerm.pdf

Jul 12, 2012 | Hardware & Accessories

1 Answer

While baking oven starts broiling with no input from controller. f2 is displayed on screen


Hello there:
F2
Note: Also see fan thermal switches Indicates that oven is over temperature in one of the following modes within either a cooking or clean mode of operation.
· Control senses oven temperature above 650 degrees F with the door circuit in the unlock mode.
· Control senses oven temperature above 935 degrees F with the door in the locked mode.
· Stalled cooling fan or airflow problem. · Look for welded relay contacts. (Heating elements on in off mode).
· Look for open thermal switch in lock motor circuit. Switch is normally closed and will open if area overheats due to fan not operating. Look for cause - fan thermal switch not closing, fan stalled, etc.
· Look for high resistance in the oven temperature sensor circuit due to high contact resistance (poor terminal crimp, deformed terminals, loose connection) or intermittent solder joint on control or intermittent oven temperature sensor.
· Look for electrical noise interference in the oven temperature sensor circuit (Ham radio, cordless phone, etc.).

Sep 27, 2010 | GE JKP15 Electric Single Oven

2 Answers

Blend door for front temp control is stuck in the 'cold' position this winter. Is there a way to manually move and fix the door to get some heat?


you have to replace the blend (heat/cold) door motor, you can try to remove motor and turn door and try to jam something in door handle slot ,that the part that the motor turns,hope this helps.

Dec 26, 2009 | 2001 Ford Windstar

1 Answer

I have a JVC TM 9060U and a JVC BR 9050U (CCTV Monitor and recorder) which interfaced with my Gemini 3200 alarm system. I can't find any diagrams or instructions for the hardwire connections provided which...


The Napco GEMP3200 Control has 2 built-in alarm outputs. One on terminals 3, 4 & 5 and the other 6, 7 & 8. The first output is normally for burglary and is factory set for 12VDC output on terminals 3(+) and 5(-). If you don't have sirens in your system you can convert this output to a dry (no voltage) relay output by cutting Jumper B on the circuit board which is just right of those terminals. Likewise terminals 6(+) and 8(-) can be used as a relay output by cutting Jumper A which is also right of the terminals. However to use this output you will have to reprogram the system to make this output for burglary also. The easiest way,if you are currently using sirens in your system, is to go to a local electronics store and purchase a 12 Volt DC relay module for about $15. Run wires from terminals 3 & 5 to your relay's + and - inputs. The relay should provide a dry closure output which you can then run wiring to your recorder. When your system alarms it will not only set off your sirens but also trip the relay.

Nov 27, 2009 | Home Security

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