Question about Refrigerators
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
You may be having a freon issue. Read some more info about this here. I type the longer version on my site. There are also factory service manuals to that may be helpful.
Posted on Nov 25, 2008
SOURCE: fridge not cold enough
temperature sensor for the refrigerator section is on the top above the light. there3's dual evaps on this model and what may have happened is that the refrigerator froze up and the styrofoam gets broken when you try to take off. that causes the air to bypass the coil causingg it to freeze up.
Posted on Dec 20, 2008
There are 2 things that cause these to not defrost. Kinda like the "Achilles heel" of GE fridges. The first one is the Defrost heater itself. And the second is the evaporator thermister (GE calls it a "sensor"). They are both very easy to replace. The part numbers are; WR51X10101 (heater) and WR55X10025 (sensor). If you don't have a local appliance parts retailer, just plug those numbers into a search engine. I highly recommend getting both parts because if the sensor hasn't failed yet, it will. The same goes for the heater...
Now for the fun stuff... Turn the temp knobs all the way counter clockwise to kill power to the fridge. Unload all the food from the freezer and remove all the shelves and the basket. Remove the screws that are holding the evap panel (the flat panel on the back wall, it's about 2 1/2 ft tall). Remove the panel to expose the evaporator. You'll see the heater at the very bottom of the evap connected by 2 screws, remove these and pull the heater out. Your new heater comes with instructions on how to install it.
After you have done that, look at the top of the evap. On the left, you'll see a little white sensor clipped to one of the evap tubes (shiny little clip), that has 2 wires feeding it. Remember which tube it's clipped to then unclip the sensor and pull it toward you. Snip the wires right at the base of the old sensor and completely remove it (leave the wires in there). Now separate those 2 wires and strip about 3/8" of insulation off. At this point, you are ready to follow the instructions that came with your new "sensor". Oh! and if it's all frosted up on the evap? Take this time (before you re-install the panel) to use a blow dryer and melt it away. All that'll be left to do is rebuild it.
There ya go! Job completion time= ~45 minutes. Easy breezy, right?
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Posted on Apr 05, 2009
A couple of things to check-
- Is the condensor cooling fan running? This will be located to push air through the external cooling coils, wherever they are located.
- Does the auto-defrost timer work? It may have failed and stayed in a position that has left the heating elements (for defrosting) turned on.
- Does it seem to be running way too long and not turning off as it once did? This could indicate either a loss of coolant (would need recharge and leak detection) or the compressor is reaching its end of life. If the latter is the problem, expect a cost of $200-$400 US.
Posted on Apr 07, 2009
SOURCE: My sub-zero fridge is about 20 years old. About a week ago, as it got hotter here in New Orleans, the beer bottles were sweating and not cold enough. So I adjusted the knob, and the next day everythin
what a **** way to make money. why can't you people just help people, instead of making it sound like you really wanna help, when all you really want is to make a buck. maybe i'd believe in your little program (sort of like a prob-specific online "Car Talk"), if I had some testimonials. Otherwise, find a better idea, guys.
Posted on May 13, 2009
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