Question about GE Refrigerators

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GE Profile Mdle PSC25SGSC SS Ser #FL410278 about 4 years old. Problem: Freezer gets warm - ice melts in ice tray and drips down and freezes in big icecle as the system recovers by itself and freezes again. It will then make ice and a day or less later, start to melt and drip then repeat again with no apparent timing cycle. It may make and keep ice for two days and maybe not. Of course the refrig gets correcspondingly warmer at the same time. The temp readings appear false as it may say -1 on freezer readout and melting will be going on. If I unplug, wait 30 sec replug in again and do a system reset with the freezer and refrig buttons, it will give a new temp reading, say 45 for the refrig and 11 for the freezer, but freezer will be melting in actuallity. Diagnostic: Doing a diagnostic of 0 on freezer side and a 3 on refrig side, I get a FAILURE or F reading. According to my manual this is a failure of the temp control panel to the dispenser board communication. All other diagnostics come up as P or PASSED. Other Note: I only hear two fans come on during fan check, which is Code 1 and 1 called fan speed test. They run for 10 seconds each during the test like it is supposed to , but the manual does not say how many fans the refrigerator has. Both fans that run during the test sound like they are in the refrig unit not in the freezer unit. Prior to this problem, I used to hear a fan down low behind the freezer area make a clicking noise like the blade was hitting something. Now it makes no sound, so I don't know if the fan is even coming on. What I would like to know: What does fail on code 0 3 mean. I do not know what the temp contro panel is -- I assume it is the control panel on upper part of the refrig side that I st the temps and use to run the diagnostics. Also, what is the dispenser board communication? Question 2: What about the fan? Question 3: Do you recommend fixing it and if I buy a new one will it take significantly less electricity to operate and will the new refrigerators be built as well as this one? Thank you. Sorry I got this so word(y).

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The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.




you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located on the back. It's part 801 in this diagram and parts list.

Based on the other diagrams you have a fan in the freezer (evaporator fan) and one underneath near the compressor. Condenser fan. here is a link to your diagrams. The sealed system and motherboard is where the control is.

Posted on Jul 11, 2010

  • 1 more comment 
  • davidglassbl Jul 11, 2010

    Thanks for your reply. I got the first three paragraphs ok , but I think the first parts of paragraph 4 are missing can you please resend. Also did you address teh error code failure I get when I do diagnostic code 0 -- 3?



    David

  • davidglassbl Jul 17, 2010

    Please tell me what the diagnostic code failed on 0 and means. Do I need to replace a part?.

    Thanks, David

  • davidglassbl Jul 17, 2010

    Sorry I meant to ask you what code 0 and 1 failure means. Do I need to replace a part?



    Thanks David

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