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Goodman cpl-j42-1a outside unit fan will not run i do get some cool (not cold) air out of vents inside house

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The fan motor on the condenser not working can be a easy fix or the motor itself could be bad. One important thing is, if your condenser fan isn't coming on, but the compressor inside is running, you could cause a lot more damage and may have to replace the compressor also, which could get expensive! I will try to go through a few things to see if any fit your problem.
(WARNING) Before working on any part of the electrical system, or even opening the compartment, please disconnect all power to the unit!
1. Fan motor not running, but compressor IS coming on-

Bad Capacitor- Its a small round or oval part that is inside the electrical compartment on the outside condensing unit. You will have to have a multimeter that reads MFDs to check it. If you do have a meter, take off the connections that or on the Herm terminal, (if you have a capacitor with just two terminals, make sure you disconnect one side), set your meter to Mfds and touch your leads to both terminals. Remember the reading it gives you and compare it to the Mfd rating on the side of the capacitor. It should read something like 15mfds/5% 370v, they vary in sizes, but make sure that your capacitor is running close to what it's rated at, if not, then it needs to be replaced. This is a common reason the fan motor stops working when everything else is still working.

Bad Motor- This can be a little more complicated sometimes since a motor can go bad and not show normal indications. The first way you want to check is to try and turn the blades on the fan motor. It should turn freely with no problem, if it doesn't, it needs to be replaced. You can also check for continuity in the motor with a multimeter, but as I said before, sometimes it can show that its okay, but still have a problem. Sometimes when your fan motor burns up, it makes a loud humming sound when it tries to kick on.

2. Fan motor not coming on, compressor also NOT coming on-

Fuses on disconnect switch- There will be two fuses on most disconnect switches that are inside the disconnect on the outside of the house, usually right by the unit. (Some condensers do not have a disconnect at all, see BREAKER BOX) To check the fuses, you will need a multimeter that has a ohm setting, they should have continuity through them. Some fuses have a small window that you can see if they are blown or not. If so, replace fuses with the same size that was pulled out.

Breaker Box- Simply enough, sometimes your condenser will trip the breaker in the breaker box. Make sure all your breakers are switch to the on position. Sometimes this is all it takes and other times it can mean that there is a more serious problem. (If you reset the breaker and it automatically trips again, there is a short and needs to be left off)

Compressors internal overload switch- If the compressor is running when the fan motor is not, it will eventually over heat which will trip the internal overload switch and shut the compressor off until it cools back down. The best way to check this is to feel the compressor itself and see if its extremely hot. ( An over-heated compressor can cause burns!) The other way to check it would be with a multimeter with a ohm setting to check for continuity within the compressor. You must follow the wires from the compressor to find the terminals where they are connected. Take the connections off and place your leads on the wires, you should have continuity through all three wires.

Of course there are a few more technical things you can use to trouble-shoot, but these are some of the more common problems and answers. Things like the capacitor and fan motor can be pick up by yourself from a local supply store that carries A/C supplies. The compressor has to be bought from a licensed contractor. The capacitor is basic, but the fan motor will need a fan blade puller in order to replace. Hope this helps or at least points you in the right direction. Good Luck!

Posted on Jul 17, 2010


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