Question about Electrolux 18 in. ESL424 Built-in Dishwasher

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ESL424 Water switch

Assume switch detects when water is at correct fill level before switching in timer. Where would I find the switch

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  • alanBfixit Apr 21, 2008

    Was hoping you could tell me where the switch is located for ts particular model so I knew which part of the beast to pull apart. Info still useful however, thanks


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Look for a plastic tube that leads to the switch most likely near the main control board (behind control panel)...possible the tube lands on ta board-mounted switch. the tube, at the switch end, should never have water in it. it is merely testing for air pressure which is directly proportional to the water level because of the opposite end of tube.

Posted on Apr 21, 2008

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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I have a auto chlor model a4 dishwasher and when I push the fill button it only fills for 3 seconds and stops and if I fill it up by holding the button down and run it threw it's cycle when it goes into...

Hi John,

This sounds like a misadjusted water level sensor. This is a commercial dishwasher but the principles are the same. I would check the water level sensor to make sure that there is no debris under it or a leveling sensor bent causing the machine to think it is at the proper water level to begin washing when it is not. This may be a mechanical lever float type switch or an actual electronic sensor that will detect where the water level is. Most household DW's will have the mechanical float switch that will float with the water level and shut off the fill solenoid when the proper level is reached. You are having to defeat this process by holding the button in to override either a faulty sensor (replace it) or a misadjusted float switch. These would be the too most likely causes of this problem. I hope this helps!

Jun 04, 2014 | Dishwashers

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Does not fill with water

The water level detection is done via a small plastic pipe from the bottom of the machine that fills with water and causes the air pressure in the pipe to activate a micro switch in the water level detecter. The pipe can be disconnected at the bottom and gently blow into the pipe. If you listern carefully you can hear the micro switch click. The pipe must not be blocked and in some cases the switch contacts could be burnt. The water level is factory set but can be adjusted on the water sensor. Replace if necessary.

Apr 24, 2010 | Kenmore 24 in. 16049 Built-in Dishwasher

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I have An LG LD-14ATI Dishwasher, it starts, pumps water in, shows up with E1 in display and pumps water out. Can you please help and tell me what is wrong and why it is doing it. thank you

Hi there,

Well It is probably Faulty Water Inlet Valve

Faulty Water Inlet Valve
The water inlet valve is the device that meters water from the supply lines into your wash tub. On domestic washers, there are two lines, one hot the other cold. These valves are susceptible to mineral build-up and sediment deposits. There are two common failure modes:
Water drips or slowly enters the machine when the timer is in the off position.
When water continues to enter the washing machine when the machine is in the off position, this is an indication that the water inlet valve is not completely shutting off. The solution to this problem is to replace the water inlet valve

Failure Mode One: Valve will not open.
If you can verify that the solenoid on the valve body is receiving the requisite voltage and the valve will not open, then it is faulty. Since the solenoids operate independently, it is likely that one side of the valve will work and the other will not. This can produce strand results such as a very hot wash when warm is selected (due to no cold water). Or the reverse in that the wash water is cold when warm is selected. If mineral or hard water deposits are a problem, you may witness a substantial increase in the time required for the tub to fill. This is caused be a decrease in the flow ware of the valve.

Failure Mode Two: Valve opens but will not close.
This is verified by a valve that allows water to flow into the tub even though no power is being supplied to the solenoid. This one is usually quickly diagnosed when the machine begins to overflow and the power plug for the washer is disconnected from the wall. However, this will not stop the water from flowing into the machine. The water must be shut off at the wall. As with the previous failure mode, the variant of this failure mode is that it may take the valve a while to completely bridge the flow of water after the power has been removed from the solenoid.

How to Diagnose?
There are a couple of ways to diagnose a faulty valve. However, there is a simple test that one can perform that will usually let you know if the water inlet valve is faulty.
When set to cold wash and rinse, the unit will not fill. When set to warm wash and cold rinse the washer will fill with hot water only and will fail to rinse. This is a common scenario where the cold water side of the valve does not appear to be contributing to the fill, but the hot water side does. This symptom could be easily reversed where cold water is being supplied, but never hot water.

So, how can the problem be determined? It is as simple as switching the wire harness plugs on the hot and cold side. In the example above where the cold water is never being supplied, the symptoms would be the opposite when the wiring harnesses were switched. So the machine would produce only produce cold when warm or hot is selected. No water should be present when you select cold. This verifies that the timer, wiring and switches are all in working order. Assuming this tests checks out, you simply need to replace the water inlet valve.

Faulty Water Level (Pressure) Switch
The water level (pressure) switch detects the hight of the water in the wash tub by the pressure it creates. Much like your ears feel greater pressure when you dive into the deep end of the swimming pool, this switch senses the increase in pressure from water added to the tub. The size of the load you select determines how much pressure is required before the switch tells the water inlet valve to close.

If voltage is still being supplied to the water inlet valves and the tub is full, then the water level switch is likely faulty

Faulty Water Level Switch Supply Tube
The tube that connects the water level (pressure) switch to the outer wash tub must have pressure integrity for the washer to be able to determine the correct water level. There are four possible problems that can prevent this tube from performing its duties.
The tube can become clogged with lint or debris. This can prevent water from entering the tube and therefore not apply pressure to the switch.
The tube can become cracked. Much like a straw in a soft drink, if the supply tube has a crack in it, it can not send pressure to the switch.
The tube has become kinked. If the tube becomes kinked, it can not send pressure to the switch.
The tube has become disconnected from either the tub or the switch. If either of these occurs it can not send pressure to the switch.
To prevent leaks, it is wise to replace a water level switch supply tube that has become brittle. Failure of this tube during operation of the washer could result in a sustained water leak. Post comments if you need further help or information........

Good Luck!!

Mar 27, 2010 | LG Dishwashers

1 Answer

Dishwasher cycles with timer, won't fill with water. Motor runs fine, drain and fill valves test fine, float switch tests fine too. Water pressure fine. I'm thinking the timer is bad and won't send a...

Remove the toekick plate on the bottom of the dishwasher.
Remove the wires from the water valve. Insert the leads from a volt meter into the water valve power wires.
Turn the washer on. After the initial pump out cycle the timer sends power to the water valve through the water level switch. If you get power to the wires,the water valve is bad or you have no water supply to the valve.
If you get no power to the wires the water level switch is bad or the wires to the switch are bad or the timer is bad.

Jan 16, 2010 | GE 24 in. GSD2030Z Built-in Dishwasher

1 Answer


The problem is hard water. Go to They have a new product out that solves this problem once and for all. It filters the water entering your dishwasher and removes the hard minerals that cause these spots. Very affordable and guaranteed to leave your dishes looking amazing every time.

Nov 04, 2009 | Electrolux 18 in. ESL424 Built-in...

1 Answer

Whirlpool dishwasher DU810CW fills for 20 sec.

well the timer and the float are the only two things that control your fill cycle,
so since your float is correct ie the rinse cycle
we can only assume that it would not be intermiten it is just a cherry switch

here is the link to the part (timer)
and the breakdown of how to get at it

Oct 27, 2009 | Dishwashers

1 Answer

Indesit dishwasher overfilling

There are two ways that dishwashers generally fill. One is a float inside the tub, the second is a tube which fills with water, loops and goes to a pressure switch below the machine. That switch is usually about 1.5 inches in diameter, two wires and a small hose going to it. The float witch is found below the float in the motor area. With the float, sometimes they jam with too much old detergent or food goo. Clean out. Both can have the switch weld closed. Change the switch in either case. Since the unit is not filling with the power off, I'm going to guess the water solenoid is okay.

Dec 22, 2007 | Dishwashers

1 Answer

Whirpool diswasher DU929PFGG2 wont draw water

The pump may be clogged or the motor start capacitor may be bad or the fill switch may be stuck or the timer may be bad. Fill the dishwasher by hand to just below the door level and close it then see if it will run. If it then runs correctly the problem may be the fill switch. If not, it could be the motor, the cap, or the timer

Nov 30, 2007 | Whirlpool 24 in. DU930PWP Built-in...

1 Answer

Dishwasher fault

If you have tried to run any cycle and still end up with this problem, then most likely a failed timer unit. The next step is for the water switch to enact the next step which is to start the timer.

Jun 17, 2007 | Electrolux 18 in. ESL424 Built-in...

4 Answers

Not enough water

Be aware that you should remove dishwasher's power cable before touching wires or making resistance measuring !!! Check that the inlet valve get power. In case it does and no water entering the tub, check with multi-meter for solenoid's resistance (disconnect first the wires to it),if no measurement result, you should replace the valve. In case you have a measurement result, remove the solenoid from the valve and check that it's clean from any dirt. In case there is no power to the inlet valve - check that the float switch works. This is usually a small switch attached to a float. The float (usually a cylindrical) located inside the dishwasher at the bottom. As the water level rises, the float rises too. When it reaches the certain height, the float activates its switch, which cuts the electricity to the water inlet valve. If the switch is defective (stuck in the disconnected position)it will prevent power from the inlet valve. The switch is an On/Off switch and you can check it easily by a multi-metr. Good luck !!

Jun 08, 2006 | Whirlpool 24 in. GU1500XTLS Stainless...

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