Question about Dometic Refrigerators

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I have a Dometic refrigerator [3 way ] that has suddenly died..It blew the 5 amp fuse that sit horizonally and i replaced it but everything shows on... but nothing gets cold even after considerable time

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  • Sterling Snyder Jul 10, 2010

    w2hat caused the fuse to blow...it seems the gas side might be ok as I can hear it ignite but haven't let it go long enough to see if it gets cold

  • Sterling Snyder Jul 11, 2010

    need someone else to respond the other guy must have died

  • Sterling Snyder Jul 11, 2010

    NNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNN000000000000000000000

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3 Answers

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  • Master
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Check the climate control button. a switch on the bottom of the fridge section for climate control.The thermostat needs to be checked.Turn it OFF if its ON. Another possibility is ventilations and drain line blocked.Check the 115 voltage at thermostat to confirm its working. Check out.Thanks.

Posted on Jul 10, 2010

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  • Sterling Snyder Jul 11, 2010

    did some more diagnostics the gas part works if I have the whole rv unplugged and it heats up when I plug the rv back in it shuts down the gas but doesn't do anything else it has not even blown another fuse..what do I need to check now and where is it located

  • Sterling Snyder Jul 11, 2010

    there is no climate control switch inside my refrig

  • Sterling Snyder Jul 11, 2010

    also where is the thermastat.. it not inside

  • Sterling Snyder Jul 11, 2010

    where's the quick response??????

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  • Master
  • 1,099 Answers

Hello,

If your refrigerator cooling doesn't seem to be working well, and you have no idea what to look for in troubleshooting your problem, there are some things you can do to try to figure out your problem without paying a serviceman to come into your home.
FreezingMost new refrigerators come with automatic defrosters. Although this is a standard feature the drain hole in the defrosting assembly can get clogged with debris, lime, or even ice. If this happens the defrost will not work and there will be a build-up of ice in your freezer that begins to block the freon from flowing properly and causing heat to react improperly and cause your refrigerator to stop cooling.
FreonFreon systems in a refrigerator are closed systems but on occasion you may need a recharge. Refrigerators use R-134a freon, just like in an automobile. The old R-12 freon is no longer available, so if you have an older model of refrigerator you will not be able to obtain the freon, and it will be recommended that you replace that refrigerator.
SealsThe seals that are on the door of the refrigerator and freezer can dry rot with time. When you begin to see the seals cracking or warping, if your refrigerator opens more easily than before, or if you see the the door does not close fully without pushing on the door then the gaskets around the doors will need to be replaced. They are held in place by clips and the replacement is an easy fix.
Holes in LinesLet's face it, many people find ice in their freezer or the back of their refrigerator and will try some self-help without knowledge. They will grab a knife or fork and start chipping away at the ice. This is extremely dangerous. There is a great risk of puncturing a hole in the freon lines by stabbing at the ice. Since freon has the purpose of cooling most ice collects the thickest on the inside of the walls with the freon lines right behind the plastics. A better method of removing the ice is to empty your refrigerator, turn it off and leave the door open. If you want to speed up the process you can turn on a blow dryer and aim it at the edges of the ice. If you aim at the edges you will warm up the ice and create warm water which will flow down and help to separate the ice panel from the wall.
Uneven RefrigeratorIf a refrigerator is not even on the floor it may not close properly. Rock your refrigerator and see if it seems to topple from one foot to another. The feet on a refrigerator can be adjusted by screwing in or out and leveling each foot individually until they are all even.
Non-Problem WarmingIf your home is hot your refrigerator will work harder. If you put a lot of food in your refrigerator and freezer, your coolant will have to work harder, and it will seem to take longer to cool. It is just that there is a lot of food that is trying to freeze or maintain cool temperatures.

ALSO THAT

Insufficient cooling is a fridge repair job that you can do without the help of a professional. Often the fridge has a frost-free failure, or the compressor is faulty but there are many other reasons for a fridge not cooling properly.
Step 1 – Find the ProblemYour first job is to locate the source of the problem. Consider each of the following:

  • Gaskets - Make sure the gaskets/seals are not torn and are sealing properly.
  • Evaporator fan – Make sure it is working. If it is now working you may have a problem with the fan motor. Check for power to the motor and also examine the fan switches around the door (not all fridges have these switches).
  • Air damper – Sometimes the air damper will not open up to allow the cold air from the freezer part to blow into the fridge section.
  • Condenser coils – Check to see that the condenser coils don’t have a dust build-up and that the condenser motor is working.
  • Compressor – Make sure your compressor is working with on and off clicking noises.
Step 2 – Frost-Free FailureThis is the most common cooling problem in fridges. Expose the evaporator coils by accessing the panel in the freezer section. The coils in the freezer section can sometimes get clogged up with frost. This can stop the evaporator fan motor from blowing cold air around, or cause the fan to hit it and stop, or become noisy. The defrost timer can be a bit tricky to find but it is usually located behind the back bottom corners of the fridge, although they can sometimes be found in the ceiling of the fresh food section, or behind the cold control cover.
Step 3 – Find the TimerWhen you find the timer, turn the wheel-like screw slowly with a screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. The refrigerator is now defrosting. If you find that the fridge starts now, you will need to replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer.
Step 4 – Volt TestIf the heaters do not come on, use a volt meter to ohm test the defrost heater or volt test for 120 volts to the heater. You can bypass the defrost thermostat if you haven’t got power to the defrost heater to check if the defrost heater will come on. To bypass the thermostat, join the two wires together. Replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer if the heater comes on now.
If there is a ticking or squealing noise in the defrost timer, or it seems hot to touch, replace it.
Many fridges have and inline fuse on both sides of the defrost heater. You will need to replace the whole heater if one of those fuses blows. Check these fuses with a volt meter if the defrost heater doesn’t work.
A quick check if you have a cooling problem is to inspect the evaporator coils. If there is a build up of white snow on the coils, this indicates a frost free problem; if there is balled ice on part of the coils with the rest bare, this indicates a system problem, like a problem with the pumping compressor.

Hope this helpout......

Posted on Jul 11, 2010

  • Sterling Snyder Jul 11, 2010

    i don't need a glossary of parts description.......... just decipher what I wrote and tell me what ican check to fix it

  • Sanyade Akinwale
    Sanyade Akinwale Jul 11, 2010

    Hi,

    . Check the condenser coil.
    This coil is usually located on the bottom of your refrigerator. On some smaller models (and some foreign models) the condenser is located on the back of the unit. It will look like a tube that goes back and forth forming a coil of sorts, and is usually painted black..
    It can be accessed by removing the “kick plate” from the front of the machine, or by simply pulling the machine out enough to get to the back coils (although the back coil condensers don’t usually get clogged as easily as the bottom mounted ones). The condenser can also be accessed by removing the compressor compartment cover on back.
    Now, it is a good idea to go to your local Lowe’s or Home Depot (or any hardware or appliance parts distributor) and purchase a funny looking brush on a stick called a condenser coil brush. This brush is especially made for cleaning condenser coils. I recommend every hubby have one in his tool kit. They run about 5 dollars or less.
    Carefully take the brush and push it in and out of the coils to pull the lint and hair build-up off the coil. At this time you can also return the toys, pencils, rubber bands, etc. to the kids and throw away all the used straws and toothpicks you remove. The use of a good vacuum cleaner with a crevice tool can help in keeping the coil clean.
    (A good sign that your condenser coil needs to be cleaned is when you look just under the fridge door and you see what looks like an animal sleeping in the kick plate, then it’s time to clean it.)
    Now replace the kick plate. Don’t expect an immediate return of proper temp. Give the unit a little while to “settle” and then check your temperature (the fridge temp not yours).
    2. The condenser fan.
    I list this one next because you are already down there checking the coil. If you have removed the back compressor compartment cover or the kick plate and the coil looks to be fairly clean (Use the brush anyway. You’re down there. Might as well clean it.)… check out the condenser fan.
    The purpose of the condenser fan is to force air through the compressor compartment and across the coil and help in the dissipating of the heat extracted from the stuff inside your fridge . If this fan is not turning properly then its purpose is defeated.
    Sometimes the fan can get blocked by a build-up of lint or trash that has worked its way into the system. Also, the lint can cake onto the blades and cause the fan to run slower than designed. In that case some fans overheat and a heat sensitive thermal protects the motor by cutting it off. But you would be surprised as to the toughness of those little buggers. I’ve seen fans stopped on commercial units for weeks and then start working right after the blockage has been removed.
    Check the blades themselves. They can work loose on the motor shaft and not keep up to speed. Many times this can be obvious, because of the “squealing” noise they make as they slip on the shaft. (This same noise will come from the “evaporator” motor when it is going bad. That will be covered in a few.)
    By the way, don’t cringe when you pull the compartment cover off the back and find your condenser fan not turning because a furry critter took an unfortunate turn for the worse shortcut. It happens, especially if the unit in question is kept in the garage or carport.
    If you clean and/or unblock the condenser fan and it still does not turn, slowly turns, or turns and stops – turns and stops as if it wants to turn – a little secret is to spray WD-40 directly into the motor. Sometimes by manually spinning and spraying you can clean the armature and lubricate the sealed bearings to get the little guy spinning again. Watch it for a few minutes to make sure it continues to spin. I do this with the power on, but as my doctor says, “I is a perfessional.” You might want to unplug the unit…wait, you were supposed to have the thing unplugged before you tackled this feat.
    If the fan does not continue to spin, remove it and take it along with the model and serial number to your local appliance parts distributor. Many times you can find a generic that is just as good at half the price. Unfortunately, there are some “manufactories” that are rather proud of their parts, and some are proprietary(meaning, “tuff stuff” owner…it’s our parts or none at all – Gotcha!).

    A defective thermostat will make the compressor run all the time. To check if you have a defective thermostat, turn it on OFF position and see if the compressor runs or not. If it does, the thermostat is indeed faulty. But if the compressor stops running, you need to look out for some other problem, probably with the compressor.

    Repairing a Condenser Fan
    The blades may get jammed or bent due to accumulated debris in the fan unit, which may lead to malfunctioning of the fan. If the blades are clogged, simply clean the unit, while in case of bent blades, straighten the blades with plier


    Hope this helpout now and Good luck.....


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  • Master
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Hi, i think it has affected the relay starter near the compressor or the compressor it self since the both in charge of the cooling in the refrigerator.

You can also check the thermostat, it can also cause the refrigerator not to cool.

Take care

Posted on Jul 10, 2010

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