CONTACTOR TURN OF THE FUZES WHEN START

outside contactor grounded

When you are testing the contactor on a coil, you should remove the tstat wires then hook up your voltage meter to the wires then turn on your tstat check the meter to be sure u are getting 24 volts.

If you are getting 24 volts, put wires back in place on contactor then measure voltage across the contactor to see if you are getting 24 volts. If there isnt 24 volts then the contactor coil is bad and needs to be replaced.

Sounds like you are on the right track. The symptom of the contactor not pulling is your clue to the solution. When you turn the thermostat down lower than the room temperature and the thermostat calls for cooling, the outside unit should start immediately. There are a few exceptions to this but generally this is correct. So if you turn the system to cool and the thermostat is calling for cool then the contactor should pull in immediately. If it does not then check for 24 volts to the contactor. If you have 24 volts to the contactor then the contactor is the problem. If you do not have 24 volt power to the contactor coil then you will have to find where the break in voltage to the contactor is happening.
There are many reasons why you may not be getting 24 volts to the contactor, so check what i stated above before you go any further. Repost if this is the solution or you need further assistance.
Important tip....the yellow wire from the thermostat carries the 24 volt power from the thermostat to the contactor.

I would bet the outside units contactor is bad. This is the device where the two thermostat wire connect outside. If this is pulling in/out as you turn the stat on/off then it is working. I just fixed one yesterday with the same symptoms and found the start capacitors were bad. If they are bulged at the top or bottom then they are bad. Good luck.

The capacitor aids a unit in starting and then in running.

the contactor is a switch that tells the compressor when to come on. It is usually controlled by another voltage. So the low voltage control circuit powers a coil in the contactor, which in turn, energizes the contactor, thus closing the contacts to turn on the compressor.

I would replace the contactor if you are getting 24 volts to the contactor and it isn't engaging therefore the magneto on the contactor is out and the contactor will need replacement. If you don't have 24 volts at the contactor then the transformer that sends the 24 volts is bad and will need replacing

Dave

CONTACTOR CONNECTIONS ARE DAMAGED.

when switched off,plug in the MicroSD again and let it startup...if it starts up well and good...turn it off and only then remove the microsd..the try turning it on...

Your contactor points could be welded together and not releasing. Turn off breaker again and open the electrical cover to condenser and inspect the contactor. Look for blacken or fuzed points. If they are then get a new contactor let me know if you need any help and will get back to you. ken

If the fan starts by pushing on it, it's the fan section of the capacitor and it needs to be replaced ($30-40, do it yourself). If the fan doesn't take off when you spin it, turn off the power and follow the wires making sure they are in good shape and tightly connected. With the power to the outside unit off and the inside section on, turn the temperature inside down as low as it will go, go outside, turn on the power and use a voltmeter to verify there is 208-240 volts going INTO the main contactor and OUT OF the main contactor. If you do not have 208-240 volts coming out of the contactor (WHEN IT IS PULLED CLOSED, most units have a 5 minute delay) then it is most likely the contactor points. Turn off the power and replace it or file the points clean. Before removing anything, make a close up video or take good pictures to be used for reassembly.
If the fan has power, doesn't start by pushing it and feels warm or hot, wait an hour for it to cool off and try it again. If it still doesn't start, it's most likely a bad fan motor and needs to be replaced.
Ron