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John Deere Riding mower won't stay running

When I take my foot off the brake pedal! It runs when the brake is pushed on but when I take my foot off... the engine dies.

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: John Deere riding mower SRX95 - Steering wheel is sticking

You need to replace your Ball Joints! On the front steering rods There are two sometimes three !

Posted on May 09, 2009

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SOURCE: I have a John Deere Riding lawn mower which starts

Hello roobar2009:

>>From your Description it Sounds like a Carburetor Problem, a Bad Fuel Filter or Bad Gas.
>>If you have Changed the Filter and the Gas and the Problem is Still happening, then
>>The Following is a Simple Way to make Sure the Engine is Getting Gas from the Carburetor to Run.
>>If the Engine Starts and Quits, then Check the Carburetor Solenoid.
>>If the Carburetor Solenoid is Good or has been Removed and the Engine will Start and Quit when the Gas is Poured into the Carburetor Throat, then Soak and Clean the Carburetor.
>>The Following is a Basic File I Made for Cleaning Carburetors. Any Input is Appreciated. Even though the Carburetor Looks Clean, the Internal Passages May be Restricted with Varnish that Gas Causes to Build Up over Time.
>>Spray Cleaners Remove this Varnish in Layers, so Soaking is the Only Sure Way to Remove ALL this Varnish.
>>I have Found that Most People can Use a Breakdown/IPL and Disassemble the Carburetor Enough for Proper Cleaning.
>>You Only have to Remove the Bowl (if Applicable), Float Pin (if Applicable), Float (if Applicable), Needle Valve.
Remove Any Adjustment Screws that Go Into the Carburetor Body. The Welch Plugs Do Not have to be Removed.
>>If you are Able to Remove and Disassemble the Carburetor and Keep the Gaskets Intact, then Usually these Gaskets can be Reused. The Only Parts you May Need to Replace is the Needle Valve.
>>The Float Needle Usually is Not Replaced Unless it is Not Operating Properly (the gas flow not shutting off and the carburetor is Flooding). Do Not Remove the Main Nozzle. This is a Pressed Fit and Removal is Not Required for Cleaning. Soaking and Blowing the Carburetor Out After Soaking will Clean the Nozzle.
>>Once Disassembled, then Soak the Carburetor Body and Parts in a 1 Gallon Can of Gunk Carburetor Cleaner Overnight. The Can has a Parts Tray Inside it for the Small Parts.
>>Once the Carburetor and Parts are in the Cleaner, you can Replace the Lid for Safety and to Prevent Accidental Spillage. Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air.
>>***(Do Not Use High Pressure Air for the Zama Carburetors, they have Check Valves for the Primer and these are Usually Blown Out of the Carburetor if Not Careful. Allow the Zama Carburetor to Set on a Drip Pan and Dry)***.
>>****All the Carburetor Adjustments are the Same for Lawn Mower and Trimmers. There are Several Location for the Air Mixture Screws. The Idle Air Mixture Screws are Usually Located at the Top of the Carburetor Bowl and the Top of the Carburetor Body.****
>>If the Main Air and Idle Air Mixture Screws are Side by Side on the Side of the Carburetor, then the Idle Air is Nearest the Engine. The Main Jet Air Mixture Screw is Located in the Bottom of the Carburetor Bowl or Beside the Idle Air Screw on the Side of the Carburetor Body.
>>Some of the Older Model Carburetors have the Main Jet Mixture Screw Straight in from the Top of the Carburetor Body (this is Rare anymore). If you have Cleaned the Carburetor (Disassembled and Soaked Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air and Install a New Kit if Required. Now Setting the Air Mixture Screws:
>>****Turn the Idle Air and Main Air Mixture Screws In Until SNUG **Do Not Jam** Then Reverse Both Screws 1 1/2 Turns. Holding the Throttle Full Open, Start the Engine. Turn the Main Air Mixture Screw Clockwise Until Proper Revs are Obtained. Occasionally you May have to Turn this Counter Clockwise to Achieve the Proper Revs. Now Allow the Engine to Idle. Set the Engine Idle Screw (Not Idle Air) so the Engine will Stay Running if Required. Now Set the Idle Air Mixture Screw so there is No Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle. Reset the Engine Idle if Required.****
>>If This Carburetor has a Single Air Adjustment (Except Tank Mounted 9200 and 100900 Engine Model Carburetors), Use the Section Above that Pertains to Full Throttle RPM Air Mixture Screw and then Adjust the Screw if Required to Eliminate Any Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle.
>>For the 9200 Model Tank Mounted Carburetor Adjust the Air Mixture Screw Full In, then Reverse 1 1/2 Turns. Set the Throttle Lever to Full Throttle and Start the Engine.
>>Now Carefully Use 1 Finger and Open the Throttle Plate and Over Rev the Engine Slightly. If the Engine Over Revs and Does Not Struggle to Over Rev, then the Carburetor is Set. If the Engine Struggles to Over Rev, then Turn the Adjustment Screw In 1/4 Turn and Repeat the Over Rev Test.
>>If you Adjust to 1/2 Turns In and the Engine Still Struggles to Over Rev, then Return the Adjustment Screw to 1 1/2 Turns Out from Snug and Turn the Screw Out 1/4 Turn. Do the Over Rev Test. Continue this Process Until you have the Engine Over Revving without Struggle.
>>By Adjusting the Carburetor on this Style Carburetor Until the Engine Over Revs without Struggle, you have Adjusted the Air Mixture to the Best Possible Setting.
>>This file was Intended to Give you the Basic Carburetor Cleaning Instructions and May Not Reflect Your Carburetor Components.
>>If you have Questions, Please Ask. The links above Provide Good Directions on Cleaning the Carburetor. Make sure you use an Compressed Air to Blow through all the Carburetor Passages to make sure they are Clear.
>>1- http://www.repairfaq.org/samnew/lmfaq/lmclctc.htm
>>2- http://www.cpdonline.com/692509.pdf .
Please, Do Not Hesitate, If I Missed Something or you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance.
Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Be Happy. Thanks.

Good Luck

Respectfully

jbridger (John)

Posted on May 17, 2009

  • 153 Answers

SOURCE: Dies when clutch disengaged

It sounds like the seat switch is disconnected or failed. Check it out. If it thinks there is no **** on the seat it will cause your symptoms.

Posted on May 26, 2009

  • 138 Answers

SOURCE: craftsman riding lawn mower 42 will not stay on

the "safety deadman switch" is the problem, however, we call it simply "the seat switch" - flip the seat forward and you will see wires going to the middle of the seat, the connector is probably slightly unplugged - wiggle it back on to make a good connection - this is a verry common problem [the unplugged switch is telling the tractor that there is nobody on the seat and it kills the engine]

Posted on Aug 16, 2009

  • 302 Answers

SOURCE: change oil in riding lawn mower

look at the side of the engine down low. There should be a pipe plug screwed in that has a square head. Put a drain pan under the area and remove this plug and the oil will drain out. It's best if the engine is warm. You should get 1 1/2 quarts of oil out of it. Let it drain for about 5 minutes and then re-install the pipe plug. Add 1 1/2 quarts of 30W oil and then cut the grass !

Posted on Aug 27, 2009

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GOOD MORNING, I HAVE A D140 JOHN DEERE LAWN MOW,IT RUN WELL WHEN NOT MOWING BUT WHEN ENGAGED IT SLOW DOWN AS THOUGH IT HAS TO CATCH IT'S BREATH LESS THAN THREE YEARS OLD


Make sure there isn't anything binding the deck belt or blades. Check the spindles for free movenent. If all that is good then it might be the linkage that is supposed to adjust the throttle when the engine is under load or it might be a carb issue...especially if you run ethanol gas in it.

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Why will my Gx325 John Deere not go in forward or reverse


For a more precise answer give the Year/Hours on Meter, and a brief description of the events prior to the problem. When did it last run correctly? What has happened since then?
The first questions that comes to mind...
  1. Can you manually push the mower around?Easily?
  2. We need to know if the brakes are locked up?
  3. We need to know if the transmission bypass lever is in or out?
  4. With the bypass lever out, brakes off, can you roll the machine?
  5. Is the bypass lever still properly connected and unbent?
  6. Looking under the machine (right in the center above the cutting head) are the drive belts intact?
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These are your first things to check. You may have to remove the cutting head to fully examine these things.

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180 john deere riding lawn mower


Your deck belt slipping. It need adjusted or replaced

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The drive belt may be broken, or it may have slipped off a pulley.

Aug 03, 2014 | John Deere Garden

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May 31, 2013 | Garden

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Mower only runs when brake pedal is pushed in


you have a bad safety switch on the brake pedal

Jun 03, 2012 | John Deere Garden

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I have a John Deere LT 133 lawn mower, when I release the clutch/brake pedal the motor will will not continue to run.


There will be a faulty safety switch somewhere. Most likely the one on the seat. Regards Phil

Apr 10, 2011 | John Deere Garden

1 Answer

Mowing right along and suddenly the tractor won't go move


it's 1 of 5 likely things
The drive belt from the engine to the transaxle is totally slipping or broken
The linkage from the control pedal to the transaxle is faulty.
The transaxle is broken (not user fixable)
The by-pass rod is pulled out
The brake pedal is pushed or the linkage is stuck in the "brake" position.

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