Question about Frigidaire FWT647GH

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Frigidaire front loader needs "assistance" to agitate and spin.

Frigidaire front loading washer model FTW647GHS0. Would not agitate or spin. Cycle operates normally otherwise - fills and drains, fills and drains, buzzes when complete. Door lock light is lit. Belt is tight, drum spins freely by hand.

Found that by "prompting" it by using a stick to agitate the drum pulley, the motor would come to life and agitate for about 15 seconds, then stop. Repeat prompting, motor engages again for 15 seconds, and stops. When it's time to spin, a little encouragement on the pulley would get the motor to spin like a tazmanian devil, all the way through. Went through an entire cycle this way, constantly "helping" the motor get moving by slightly rotating the drum pulley with my stick. Very odd. Operation was exactly the same with the belt removed.

Replaced the speed control board, got the same results.

Returned the control board, replaced the motor, and it seemed to work fine. Closed up the machine, ran four or five loads, and suddenly I have the same results as before.

Interesting to note that it operates in exactly the same fashion whether the belt is on or off. With the motor just sitting on the floor, connected only by the 6-pin connector to the control board, the small pulley on the motor needs only the slightest inducement from the eraser end of a pencil to fire up and spin (agitate) for about 15 seconds, only to stop. (The only difference is that instead of spinning back and forth, as it does with the belt on, it just spins one way for 15 seconds, stops, and then (when prompted) spins the other way for 15 seconds.) Same for the spin cycle - a little boost, and it flies through the spin cycle. Again, I can run the motor through the entire wash cycle this way (belt disconnected) - I just have to keep prompting the small pulley with a pencil eraser, and it will fire up for 15 seconds, then stop. When the machine is draining and supposed to spin, with a little push to get started it whirs around like it's on fire. Without prompting, it just sits there.

So:
It doesn't appear to be the control board (new control board, original motor, same results).
Doesn't appear to be the motor (original control board, new motor, same results).
Does not appear to be affected by movement (belt on/drum spinning, or belt off, just sitting perfectly still on the floor, same results).

This is the damndest thing. If it isn't the control board, and it isn't the motor, and it doesn't seem to be caused by a loose/jiggling connection, I can't figure out why it works so well with just a little nudge, but it needs that nudge constantly to keep going.

Any ideas? I'm pretty handy, but the tech sheet diagrams and instructions for measuring voltages ("the voltage at pins 2, 6, and 10 should read 120 Vac and 0 Vac at pin 1...") is out of my league. Thanks!

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Washer will fill, drain, and run a complete cycle but will not agitate or spin

sounds like the motor control board is bad. you could test the motor to see if it ohms out ok, the diagram has the readings. The diagram should be on the side panel (inside the cabinet) on the lt side in a brown envelope.

Posted on Jan 09, 2008

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CMV9
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SOURCE: fwt449gfs2 washes, empties some water, does not spin, knob does not advance

i would check the timmer. run it through a cycle and when it stops slightly move the timmer ahead. if that works than you need to replace the timmer... i had a washer that did that and it turned out to be the timmer on mine.

Posted on Aug 06, 2008

SOURCE: frigidaire front load washer won't spin, belt looks good, makes noise

Don't have much experience on Frigidaire. Is the motor a brush type, capacitor type or one of those new DC types? If it's got brushes and they are ok, then I would say your armature is up the creek. If it's a capacitor type (unlikely) then the capacitor is most likely duff. If it's the new DC type it could be a lot of things, most likely the module which breaksdown and passes an AC component in the motor supply which make the motor tremble but not rotate

Posted on Nov 02, 2008

onthejob5130
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SOURCE: broken electronic connector on washing machine

seawolrf your going to have to do a little work...open the door now looking at the washer i want you to take a knife or screw driver and take that gasket off right next to the door switch,,the black gasket is glued ,,yes glued pull it up..only by door switch..now remove door switch screws (2) now replace that connection...onthejob

Posted on Jan 28, 2009

  • 3741 Answers

SOURCE: Washer will not spin for

If your washer won't spin, check these:

It doesn't pump or spin
It pumps, but doesn't spin
It spins only with the lid closed
It doesn't pump or spin If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:

  • If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt.


  • If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.


It pumps, but doesn't spin If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these:

  • The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.


  • The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.


  • A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)


  • The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.


  • The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.


  • The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.


  • The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.


It spins only with the lid closed For safety, washing machines are made so that they spin only with the lid closed. The lid switch prevents the spinning action when the lid is up.

Posted on Jul 11, 2009

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