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Re: hotpoint dryer was moved, now only clicks, won't...
Rough handling may have the drum belt to get binded. Try turning the drum by hand to see if it turns free or is locked. This may align the belt to the motor or may just take off the belt altogether from the motor. You will have to get inside access to see whats up. Once inside realign the belt to the motor and pulley assembly. Then CHECK ALSO that no wire connections inside came apart during moving. Good luck
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Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage.
CHECK THERMAL SHUT OFF THERMOSTAT USUALLY LOCATED ON THE BLOWER. for OHMS or resistance with a meter. Should show a closed circuit. Ohms WHEN THIS FUSE BLOWS IT WILL SHUT DOWN EVERYTHING.
NEXT Test the PUSH start switch with meter for OHMS. Should show OHMS when pushed in or on start, and no ohms or infinity when in off position.
If you hear a humming/clicking sound from motor area you more than likely have a bad motor.
Try this test out to see if u have weak windings or relay/capacitor on motor.
Open the dryer door and turn by hand the drum while machine is on ON position. And you or someone else presses the door engagement switch in. If it starts up then u have bad windings
Another thing to check is the belt safety switch. With a multi meter.
Especially if u just replaced the belt. The belt safety switch is attached to the Tensioner and motor. IT LOOKS LIKE A DOOR SWITCH SOMEWHAT a little black pc of plastic with 2 prongs going into it. Sits at bottom of motor. Under the Tensioner. Attach meter clips to the 2 prongs on switch, Then when the little white push button is pressed in it should show continuity and none when released.
Lastly check ur DOOR SWITCH for continuity with a meter when the button is pushed in the (on/Door closed position,) it may have gone bad.
Hey GOD IS GOOD !!!!
There are too many problems that it could be, anything from the Button going bad, to the Door Shut Switch being defective, to the Motor, Relay inside the circuit board, to loose wire during the move, and the list goes on and on. Unless you can test each component that sends the START signal, nobody will be able to assist you with the information you have provided.
Either one or 2 things happened. The move cause the lint to shift around inside the dryer and it overheated blowing the fuse. OR the new apartment's vent is blocked and caused the dryer to overheat. All maytag dryers are not the same but they all have a non resetable fuse mounted on the blower housing. When the temp exceeds 350f it melts and kills power to the motor. If the motor is not running the heat does not get power. The motor must be turning to make the cent switch power up the heater. Dryer manuals
My Hotpoint dryer is seven years old and did the exact same thing. When I got over the anger and the thought of spending 4 or 5 hundred dollars to replace it I started messing with it. I finally decided that since it buzzed when I tried to start it there was current there. The only other thing it could be was the drying cycle knob. I held the start knob and let it buzz while I slowly turned the dryer cycle knob to the right. As I turned through each cycle it would hit "off" and the buzzing would stop and then resume as I moved past the "off " setting. On the third trip around the dryer "started" and has been working since. Maybe something got out of kilter. Apparently the problem was in the knob that controls the drying cycles.