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The evaporator will frost over if the fan is not working. Replace the fan
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Try spinning the evaporator fan motor with your fingers. If the freezer door was left closd it may have rusted on its shaft and be stuck. We need to test the voltage going to fan if oiling its bearing and spinning byhand does not get it moving. Click Here for a service manual=> HERE and here=> GE Artica Test Sheet The fan motor or a relay on the motherboad may also be defective. You should get 12-13 volts DC at the fan motor, Thanks Sea Breeze

WR60X10185 Evaporator Fan Motor

The fan and defrost heater are run off the same relay on the board. When on defrost, the fan stops. when the fan starts, the defrost heater is switched off, Sounds like the neutral to the board may be shorting. If you have the ability, try powering the evaporator fan from the compressor relay, disconnecting from the board entirely. To see if this will work, just take a temporary wire to the fan when disconnected and see if it trips while running.

The fridge gets its cold air from the freezer through a vent(damper) between the freezer and fridge.The fan in the freezer blows air through it. Make sure this fan is running. The fan should spin freely when you spin it. You can check the fan plug for voltage to see if it's getting power with the door switch pushed in. You may have to hold the door switch in for it to run. There is a flap you adjust with the fridge temp. control. Make sure it's opening and closing when you adjust the fridge temp.
The problem could be the electronic control if you have one or the mechanical linkages.

If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.

check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat. In most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board. If the heater and thermostat are ok it'll be the control.

Hi. this will be a failed relay on that circuit board. This is called the PCB(main unit power control board). This board controls the compressor relay functions, and the compressor power current, as well. The evaporator fan, and condenser fan, receives their respective current from this power control board, also. When a circuit board of this nature begins to malfunction, it will cause the unit to not cool properly, due to limited, or no fan actions, or a failed compressor cycle. I would recommend to replace this damaged control board, asap.

Replace the motherboard (part # WR55X10942) but be careful to check that the evaporator fan (inside the freezer) turns on when you power up the refrig again. A bad evaporator fan motor can take out the motherboard. If compressor starts with new board but not evap fan, unplug immeadiatelly and replace the evap fan motor to save new board.

IF the below mentioned information does not help, then contact a elextrical engineer worksman who can check the circuit board as it might also cause a short cicuit.

The inside of the freezer Self-defrosting refrigerators use a circulating fan to move the air through the freezer and refrigerator compartments. This fan runs whenever the unit is cooling. The fan is located in the freezer, as follows:

• If the freezer is on top, the fan is on the back wall, near the top or bottom, in the center of the freezer.
  
  
• If the freezer is on the bottom, the fan is on the back wall, near the top of the freezer.
  
  
• If the freezer is on the left, the fan is on the back wall, halfway up or near the top.
  
  

Over time, the fan may become noisy--usually making a chirping or squealing sound, though it may make a loud groaning noise instead.

To find out if the fan is causing the noise, just open the freezer door and push in any fan/light switches. If the noise is louder when the door is open, the evaporator fan motor is the cause. You can't lubricate or repair this motor. You must replace it.

The outside back of the refrigerator There are three components on the outside back of the refrigerator that may become noisy: the compressor, the condenser fan motor (if self-defrosting), or the defrost timer (if self-defrosting).

• The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. You can see it on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. It is usually black and has black or copper-colored tubes and various colored wires attached to it. If the compressor is the device making noise, there is probably no repair that will reduce the noise. You will have to replace it--which can be quite costly.
  
  
• If the condenser fan is making noise, there may be a build-up of lint or other debris on the fan blade. The fan is located near the back of the machine, sometimes behind a thin panel. To clean it, first unplug the refrigerator, remove the thin panel, and use a soft bristle brush to clean it. If there is no lint build-up or debris on the blade, you will have to replace the motor.
  
  
• The defrost timer is often located at the bottom of the refrigerator, near the front and behind the kick plate. Occasionally the electric motor inside the timer may become noisy. The timer must be replaced to solve this problem.
  
  

The bottom of the refrigerator Noises detected at the bottom of the refrigerator almost always originate from the back of the refrigerator. However, sometimes the drain pan under the refrigerator will rattle. You may need to tape the pan in place to stop a rattle. Also see the “Outside back of the refrigerator.”

There is one compressor, condenser and evaporator in all refrigerators. The part that makes the cold inside the unit is the evaporator. It's in the freezer, behind a barrier on the back wall. It's a "coil" with many small fins. There is a fan that blows air over the evaporator which makes the air cold. This air comes from the freezer and stays in the freezer. The cold food section (the refrigerator) has a control that opens a hole for air to pass from the freezer to the fridge. This being said...you can rule out the "temperature control" for the fridge.

The sound you hear could be the compressor relay, the evaporator fan or maybe something else. It could be bad, it could be not too bad. (Like a fan blade a bit unbalanced with dust)

OK,,, back to the evaporator. There is a little heater next to the coil that turns on every 8 hours or so to defrost the coil. That's called the "defrost cycle". Makes sense, no? If the defrost timer (common problem) or defrost control board (common problem) go bad, your evaporator coil freezes up, and that's not good for anything in your refrigerator. But it can often keep the freezer section cold. You can easily disassemble the evaporator cover in the back of the freezer and take a look. If it looks like a block of ice, you probably have a defrost issue. An even, thin coat of frost is OK, but lots of ice is a no no.

First of all Give me model# and Serial#.
you will most likely have to replace main control board and evaporator fan motor. They have had a service bulletin out on this problem.

I am experiencing the same problem with my GE fridge. We have already tried the Turbo Cool, but nothing seems to help.
Thanks
Carol