Question about Fisher and Paykel 23 in. DD-603SS Built-in Dishwasher

3 Answers

FP DD603 fills water, stops error 01 crossed faucet symbol

My fisher paykel DD603 fills with water at the start of the cycle and stops with the following error code and a beeping noise:
- error 01
- spanner symbol
- crossed out faucet symbol

I am able to drain the water by entering the hardware diagnostics mode and running the motor in the drain direction.

By removing the filter plate and examining the impellers I am not able to see visible damage. All filters are clean. The water pressure is normal and the spray arm seems to be rotating as expected.

I opened the bottom draw and removed it from the rails and examined the flood switch sensor which appears to be dry.

Is there anything else I can try? Thanks.

Posted by on

  • rjayasha Jul 12, 2010

    I cleaned out the contacts again and am having the same U1 error and water collecting in both draws. The water level is high enough to make the spray arm float on the water. I am able to drain both draws using the hardware test mode.

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3 Answers

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Hi,

I had the opportunity to work on a Fisher & Paykel DD632 dishdrawer a couple days ago. By the way, I am a big fan of Fisher & Paykel equipment--if you ever have the opportunity to work on one, you'll see why. The engineering is elegant in its simplicity. Well-engineered equipment is actually much easier to work on because they have designed serviceability into the product.

Anyway, the problem with this particular dishdrawer was that the top drawer (with an 11 minute wash) was giving an F1 error code after the initial rinse, about five minutes into the cycle. The F1 code indicates an overfill condition. One of the most common causes for an overfill fault is that the dishwasher cannot pump out the dirty water due to a plugged drain hose.

So, I put the dishdrawer into diagnostic mode and tested the fill and pump out functions--everything was peachy. I ran the top drawer in a normal wash cycle and, sho 'nuff, the drawer faulted out on F1 after the first rinse. Well, Houston, we had a problem and it was time for the Samurai to break open a can of whup-*** on this dishdrawer. First thing I did was pull the front panel off the drawer.

Fisher Paykel DD603 dishdrawer with the front panel removed.

With that front panel off, I pulled the wire harness connectors off the main control board (lower right-hand side) to inspect for gook us. None found--my quest continued.

The next step to remove the bottom drawer from the unit so I could inspect the flood switch. In order to do this, I had to remove the wire harness cover on the underside of the drawer. This is what the underside of the dishdrawer looks like with the bottom cover panel removed:

Fisher Paykel DD603 dishdrawer, looking at the underside of one of the drawers with the wire cover plate removed.

With the bottom cover off, I could unclip the wire harness, fill hose, and drain hose. Then I unclipped the linkage at the back of the drawer and lifted the drawer off the slider arms.

After noting the positions of the wires on the flood switch and removing them, I unclipped the switch housing from the base panel. The switch housing contains one switch for each drawer. The switches are wired normally closed (NC) and each switch has three spade connections, so it's important to note where the wires went. With the switch housing out, I could ohm out both switches and both checked good. I inspected the contacts and noticed that one of them was oxidized, evidenced by discoloration.

I had a flash-back to my Navy days and heard Petty Officer (AT1) Crowe's voice in my head, "Here, take this ruby red eraser and clean off them contacts. That'll restore the current flow for that circuit. Good to go, Sailor." You gotta understand, Petty Officer Crowe was my technical guru in the Navy--he taught me many of the practical and theoretical troubleshooting skills that I still use today.

So I cleaned the contacts as instructed by Petty Officer Crowe's mental image in my brain and reassembled the dishdrawer. I ran the top drawer and...no F1 error code! I ran it several more times just to be sure.

OR ,if this is not the case next thing to look for is
If you have problems with a plugged drain hose
Dishwasher Drainology

Your dishwasher sounds like it's working up a storm, draining all that yucky dirty water out, but you open the door and all that dirty water is still there. Houston, we have a problem. OK, grasshopper, go grab you a cold one and hang on for a magical mystery tour into what causes dishwasher draining problems, also called the ancient and mystical art of dishwasher drainology. Let's take 'em one at a time:

* Using Too Much Detergent
Some fancy dishwashers with electronic controls have sensors that detect when the pump is not pumping water. Using too much detergent creates a great head of foam in the dishwasher basin, like pouring a beer too fast into a glass. So if you use too much soap in one of these so-equipped dishwashers, the sensors think the dishwasher is empty and cuts off the pump (For you gadget geeks out there, it senses the pump work by using a sensing resistor in series with the motor main winding.) While we're talking about detergents, that store bought stuff you're using is screwing up your dishwasher
* You Forgot to Remove the Disposal Drain Port Knockout Plug

# This usually only applies to the situation where you just installed a disposal and connected the dishwasher drain hose to the drain port on the disposal. Believe it or not, this happened to me on my first disposal installation job, too...no, not really. But I have seen many a grasshopper stumped by this.
# Drain Solenoid Not Opening
Some brands, notably GE/Hotpoint and Magic Chef, use a drain solenoid to open and close the dishwasher drain port. If this solenoid isn't opening during the drain cycle, could be a bad timer or solenoid.
# Worn Pump Impeller
Other dishwashers, like Whirlpool and KitchenAid, don't use a drain solenoid but instead reverse the motor to drain the basin. One possible reason for poor draining in this type of dishwasher is a worn pump impeller. You usually figure this by elimination...no, not that kind of elimination you dawg! I mean, if all the other suspects listed here check out OK, then you've got a worn pump impeller. The rebuilding kit for this repair is very inexpensive and is a great beer drinking project.
# Kinked or Plugged Drain Hose
Drain hoses can become kinked or crimped from poor installation, stuff being moved around, lots of reasons. It happens.This page on drain hose configuration shows you several approved drain hose layouts. Drain hoses can also get plugged from gookus. Plugs usually occur at the one of the drain ports--either on the dishwasher or at the other end. The best test is to take the drain hose off at the dishwasher and pucker up and blow like a fish. Yep, it can be pretty nasty putting your mouth on that stuff but, hey, that's why we appliance techs make the big money.
# Air Gap Plugged with Gookus

Plumbing codes may require an air gap in your dishwasher drain hose and many houses have 'em. These air gaps do a great job of keeping sewer water from backing up into your dishwasher but they can become a source of problems, too. Sometimes, they'll get plugged with gookus and they'll need to be cleaned out. If it's real bad or corroded, do yourself a favor and install a new air gap kit.

Let me know,if needed further assistance.

Hope i helped you.

Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

Posted on Jul 12, 2010

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I have a dd603 the top draw was filling with water to to air vent holes causing water to drip out the back of the draw causing an F2 code. I changed the rotors over as the top draw rotor impeller had been damaged and this stopped the pump from working,this has fixed the problem with the top draw now the bottom draw fills up. I will need to purchase a new rotor motor to have the bottom draw working. The moral to this story is to not have small hard objects that can damage the rotors enter your Dish Washer. This is our second DD603 we believe they are very good if looked after. Regards Stephen

Posted on Sep 04, 2012

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Yes. Let's revisit that flood switch. Note the positions of the wires on the flood switch and remove them. Unclip the switch housing from the base panel. The switch housing contains one switch for each drawer. The switches are wired normally closed or NC and each switch has three spade connections. Take careful notes. With the switch housing out, clean each of the contacts with the eraser end of a common pencil. Where ever you see discoloration do an especially good cleaning job. This cleaning will restore current flow. Put it all back together and you will be good to go. J.


Posted on Jul 10, 2010

  • rjayasha Jul 11, 2010

    I cleaned all the contacts and reran a fast cycle. The dishwasher now fills with water, stops with a U1 error. I am still able to drain the water in diagnostic mode. The water level is higher than before and the spray arm is now floating a little in the water. This is happening in both the upper and bottom draws.

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